Which set should I buy ? SRS 2.3 NON tl,or SRS 3.1tl

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Comments

  • bassfann
    bassfann Posts: 151
    So I can definitely biamp the 2.3's,as long as I use the dreadnaught mod ? I'm probably gonna buy the 3.1's also,just can't afford during the holidays.
    F1nut wrote: »
    bassfann wrote: »
    I need to build a dreadnought to bi-amp, is this correct?

    Yes.

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,546
    Bi-amping is a can of worms. Forget you ever had the idea and buy one stellar amp instead.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • bassfann
    bassfann Posts: 151
    [I have 2 Yamaha mx1000s. Would be a shame to have one sitting. Can you explain why it would be trouble ?
    quote="F1nut;c-2276548"]Bi-amping is a can of worms. Forget you ever had the idea and buy one stellar amp instead.[/quote]

  • bassfann
    bassfann Posts: 151
    I can use 1,though. They are great amps.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,546
    edited December 2016
    It requires the use of active crossovers to actually be bi-amping.

    Some reading for you.
    As we have seen, the key part of the equation is the electronic crossover. Splitting the signal at line level allows us to bypass the lowly passive network. So, buy another amp, an electric crossover and you are off to races. Ah, but it's not that simple. Now comes the task of calibrating the crossover to your speakers; making sure that the drivers are sent the specific frequencies their designers intended, and that slopes (the rate at which the transition between the frequencies occur, and how much they overlap) are correctly set. These adjustments are key to not only optimum performance, but system safety; operating a driver beyond its range will likely result in its failure. Maybe you've read the book, "Poof the Mangled Driver"?

    Ok, so what about just using two amplifiers and forgetting about the electronic crossover? Simply using two amplifiers is not true bi-amping and does not offer the same advantages; we still face the limitations of the passive crossover. What about the notion that bi-amping reduces stress on the amplifiers since they are powering only limited frequency ranges? That would be true in a true bi-amp configuration where the frequencies are split ahead of the amplifiers, but in a passive environment both amplifiers receive a full range signal from the preamp and dump that power into the speakers, regardless of whether one is connected to the tweeter or woofer inputs. The only benefit (and it marginal at best) is simply the additional power offered by the second amp.*

    Lastly (and maybe most importantly), the idea of using different types of amplifiers is a real issue. It has long been thought that the ideal situation was to use a sweet, refined low powered amp in top (tubes, for instance), teamed up with a powerful (usually solid state) amp to control the bass. This may indeed produce nice extreme top and bottom, but rarely did the two disparate sonic characteristics of the two dissimilar amplifiers mesh well in the critical midrange area. Further, matching signal level between both amplifiers extremely difficult, maybe impossible without sophisticated measurement equipment. So, more often than not, pseudo bi-amping, or poorly executed true bi-amping causes more problems than it cures.

    In most cases, I am not a fan of bi-amping a high end audio or video systems. As we have seen, it can be a fairly complex (not to mention expensive) modification. Proper implementation requires the use of multiple amplifiers and an outboard electronic crossover. This mandates bypassing the internal passive crossover, which requires work inside the speaker, and will clearly void your warranty. There is significant expense in hardware: the additional amplifiers and crossover, not to mention the extra cables required. Further, we dramatically add to the complexity of the system. Though it can offer substantial benefits in the right set-up, in most every instance the listener is better served by using the funds to upgrade components in the system.

    As I said, you'd be better off getting one stellar amp.
    Post edited by F1nut on
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • VSAT88
    VSAT88 Posts: 1,257
    Why not get both set ?
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,546
    edited December 2016
    Money, I believe.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • bassfann
    bassfann Posts: 151
    It may void my warranty,too ! lol ! I think I've read that before,but my memory is very very bad. I don't know if I can afford another amp.Really,I wanted to use both amps,since I have them,although 1 would power them nicely.My wife would kill me if I bought another amp.Thank you for your input.
    F1nut wrote: »
    It requires the use of active crossovers to actually be bi-amping.

    Some reading for you.
    As we have seen, the key part of the equation is the electronic crossover. Splitting the signal at line level allows us to bypass the lowly passive network. So, buy another amp, an electric crossover and you are off to races. Ah, but it's not that simple. Now comes the task of calibrating the crossover to your speakers; making sure that the drivers are sent the specific frequencies their designers intended, and that slopes (the rate at which the transition between the frequencies occur, and how much they overlap) are correctly set. These adjustments are key to not only optimum performance, but system safety; operating a driver beyond its range will likely result in its failure. Maybe you've read the book, "Poof the Mangled Driver"?

    Ok, so what about just using two amplifiers and forgetting about the electronic crossover? Simply using two amplifiers is not true bi-amping and does not offer the same advantages; we still face the limitations of the passive crossover. What about the notion that bi-amping reduces stress on the amplifiers since they are powering only limited frequency ranges? That would be true in a true bi-amp configuration where the frequencies are split ahead of the amplifiers, but in a passive environment both amplifiers receive a full range signal from the preamp and dump that power into the speakers, regardless of whether one is connected to the tweeter or woofer inputs. The only benefit (and it marginal at best) is simply the additional power offered by the second amp.*

    Lastly (and maybe most importantly), the idea of using different types of amplifiers is a real issue. It has long been thought that the ideal situation was to use a sweet, refined low powered amp in top (tubes, for instance), teamed up with a powerful (usually solid state) amp to control the bass. This may indeed produce nice extreme top and bottom, but rarely did the two disparate sonic characteristics of the two dissimilar amplifiers mesh well in the critical midrange area. Further, matching signal level between both amplifiers extremely difficult, maybe impossible without sophisticated measurement equipment. So, more often than not, pseudo bi-amping, or poorly executed true bi-amping causes more problems than it cures.

    In most cases, I am not a fan of bi-amping a high end audio or video systems. As we have seen, it can be a fairly complex (not to mention expensive) modification. Proper implementation requires the use of multiple amplifiers and an outboard electronic crossover. This mandates bypassing the internal passive crossover, which requires work inside the speaker, and will clearly void your warranty. There is significant expense in hardware: the additional amplifiers and crossover, not to mention the extra cables required. Further, we dramatically add to the complexity of the system. Though it can offer substantial benefits in the right set-up, in most every instance the listener is better served by using the funds to upgrade components in the system.

    As I said, you'd be better off getting one stellar amp.

  • bassfann
    bassfann Posts: 151
    nbrowser wrote: »
    Well if he bought the lesser pair of speakers...and is wanting big power for little dough...I'm guessing his next purchase will be an Emotiva amp...

    Are Emotiva amps THAT bad ?
  • bassfann
    bassfann Posts: 151
    VSAT88 wrote: »
    Why not get both set ?

    I'm working on it !
  • Nightfall
    Nightfall Posts: 10,086
    edited December 2016
    bassfann wrote: »
    nbrowser wrote: »
    Well if he bought the lesser pair of speakers...and is wanting big power for little dough...I'm guessing his next purchase will be an Emotiva amp...

    Are Emotiva amps THAT bad ?

    Something positive... something positive...

    Better than Crown I guess. They have a warranty, so that's nice. Good for HT on the cheap.
    afterburnt wrote: »
    They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.

    Village Idiot of Club Polk
  • Bi wiring with a Sunfire amp's dual outputs produces excellent results.