SDA SRS 194 tweeters don't fit

Got the 194 tweeters for the SDA SRS's and thought I would put them in for a couple days before I took the crossovers out to get rebuilt. It seems that the plastic frame is designed a little different than the SL2000. The lip sits on the top of the front panel and the bosses on the back of the 194's are not flush to the rim like the 2000's. The boss thing is just not good from a fastening standpoint. I didn't tighten the screws once I saw that the rim wasn't going to bottom out because its setting on the lip around the perimeter. Even if the rim did bottom, the bosses are short and will crack over time without some support from behind. I tried a search to look for some suggestions on how to mount these so the bosses don't crack and the rim seals up but got so many results that weren't really pertinent to a solution. My thought was to glue a flat washer on the bosses to bring them up to flush and get something non compressible like sheet rubber for the gasket. Looks like the gap is about 1/16" or so. Does anyone have better thoughts or a solution to this? I also had been reading that the installation of hurricane nuts or plates is a recommended mod but there are already threaded inserts on all the tweeters now. Not sure if I should leave them alone or not. I haven't ever had these apart other than to pull the crossover to eliminate the polyswitch a long time ago. Bought these new and so they came this way.
7qwz3528kxqw.jpg
oasufox1aexx.jpg
Main System
Marantz AV8802A PrePro
Marantz MM7025 Amp rear surrounds
McIntosh MC7205 Amp center, ceiling and mid surrounds
McIntosh MC300 Amp front mains
Oppo 203 Bluray
Polk SDA-SRS with VR3 monastery crossovers
Polk FX1000 Mid surrounds
Klipsch RP-440C Center channel
Klipsch RP-15M Rear surrounds
SVS prime elevation ceiling surrounds
Rythmik F15HP sub
Samsung 8500 curved screen 65" LED 4K
Mac Mini Server

Office System
Musical Fidelity M6s dac/preamp
Oppo 103D Bluray
Polk SDA-SRS 2
Parasound HCA-1500A
Polk PSW 650 sub
Microrendu
Roku Ultra
Mac Mini Server

Comments

  • They do fit snuggly to begin with and maybe the wood swelled just a smidge from ambient temp/moisture changes.

    If it were me, I wouldn't use the screws to 'pull' them flush. Instead, I'd lay the speakers on their backs and with my fingers push them in or use something that won't mar the surface (rubber mallet?) to tap them in.

    If you're handy with tools...
    -Maybe lightly sand the rim of the tweets? Keep the sides straight and square.
    -Carefully sand or Dremel out the hole?

    I have a pair of SDA SRS 2s that I swapped the tweets out on. The originals were tight. The replacements were very tight but did make their way into place acceptably. No leaks.
    Carver TX-11b - Carver 4000t - Carver TFM45 x2 - Polk SDA SRS 2 (094 tweets) - RSL CG 8^2 (Howard's XO upgrade + driver upgrade = 350w rms and amazeball toanz)
  • Any updates?
    Carver TX-11b - Carver 4000t - Carver TFM45 x2 - Polk SDA SRS 2 (094 tweets) - RSL CG 8^2 (Howard's XO upgrade + driver upgrade = 350w rms and amazeball toanz)
  • So what you're saying is you can't get it in the hole?? ;)
  • sbb2112
    sbb2112 Posts: 134
    Update on what I am doing with the mounting. I measured the new tweeters and the old and it seems the depth below the lip on the new tweeter is the same as the depth of the sidewalls of the old ones. When I put them in, they go in until the lip makes contact. This keeps the bottom up .030" and just barely makes contact with the gasket. The screw bosses aren't made all the way down to the bottom so they are up even more. The old tweeters screw bosses are flush to the bottom which are fine. I got a roll of armacell and am making new gaskets from that and got #8 flatwashers (2 for each boss) and glued them on the back of the screw bosses. They allow the screw to be tightened down and should keep the boss from cracking as they are supported underneath. I was going to either remove the rim or enlarge the hole but having the rim conceal the opening and looks better than the original where the facing vinyl edge shows where it was routed out. Used flat head cap screws too as the new tweeters have countersink holes rather than spotfaced ones on the old. Thanks to David at DHS for taking the time to point out improvements and hopefully soon I can send in the xovers to get rebuilt.
    Main System
    Marantz AV8802A PrePro
    Marantz MM7025 Amp rear surrounds
    McIntosh MC7205 Amp center, ceiling and mid surrounds
    McIntosh MC300 Amp front mains
    Oppo 203 Bluray
    Polk SDA-SRS with VR3 monastery crossovers
    Polk FX1000 Mid surrounds
    Klipsch RP-440C Center channel
    Klipsch RP-15M Rear surrounds
    SVS prime elevation ceiling surrounds
    Rythmik F15HP sub
    Samsung 8500 curved screen 65" LED 4K
    Mac Mini Server

    Office System
    Musical Fidelity M6s dac/preamp
    Oppo 103D Bluray
    Polk SDA-SRS 2
    Parasound HCA-1500A
    Polk PSW 650 sub
    Microrendu
    Roku Ultra
    Mac Mini Server