Polk Monitor 7 mid range MW6500 wiring question.
Hey guys, a while ago I got a Monitor 7b (for free, score!) when I bought two Monitor 5's (all peerless). I have to Montor 7's (pre-suffix) as my main left right stereo setup. My idea was to use the 7b as my center channel and the 5's as surrounds but alas the mid range woofer was frozen and sounded bad on my 7b. Instead of getting a MW6503 I found a good MW6500 on eBay and got it. It arrived yesterday and I just wanted to confirm with the experts here what exactly I should do. My new (its actually older but have been assured it works fine) MW6500 has two wires on both positive and negative terminals and the MW6500 currently in the 7b only had one. Can I simple de-solder the two off my replacement and solder the two coming off of the crossover for a simple drop in replacement? Here I have some pictures to clear things up. Here is a picture of the bad one currently wired to the Monitor 7b
Here is a picture of the replacement with its different wiring.
Here is a picture of the replacement with its different wiring.
Comments
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Awesome so I'll just de solder the mw6500 with two wires each and attach it to the one wired 7b. Can't wait to hear my setup. As far as monitor series surround sound I think I've got the cream of the crop. That's for the reply!
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I successfully switched drivers but I'm not sure this is the issue. Dialogue sounds slightly overdriven still. It does seem a little bit better but something is off. I'm not an expert more like an interested novice as far as my experience with these things but I have a meter. What should the peerless tweeter read on the ohm meter or perhaps it's the crossover? Maybe the cabinet?
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Overdriven? Distorted or just abnormally loud compared to the rest of the speakers? If the latter check your AVR settings or just run the auto calibration again.afterburnt wrote: »They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.
Village Idiot of Club Polk -
Sorry about the vague language not the best choice of words there. Like its peaking not just too loud.
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Still not sure exactly what you mean. If you move the speaker from the center channel position to one of the front L/R spots does it still sound like whatever it is you're describing?afterburnt wrote: »They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.
Village Idiot of Club Polk -
Still not sure exactly what you mean. If you move the speaker from the center channel position to one of the front L/R spots does it still sound like whatever it is you're describing?
It does, my first test after the mw6500 replacement was right channel. I don't know of a better way to describe it expect for slight distortion, It sounds harsh It's not that bad but it's not as clean as my 7's in the left right either. -
You cannot use the 6500 in place of the 6503, very different driver specs. Chalk it up to an amateur mistake and get the proper driver.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
They're all Peerless tweeters right? Can you try swapping tweeters around easily? Quick connects or soldered?afterburnt wrote: »They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.
Village Idiot of Club Polk -
I didn't, I replaced a 6500 with a 6500. I believe that's correct for a 7b. I thought 6503 was the current Polk replacement which I passed over for a working 6500.
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Apologies, my amateur mistake.....LOL
Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
They are soldered on. Don't know if it will help but here are some pictures I took of it a while ago. Not sure if my 5's or pre suffix 7's are soldered or not.They're all Peerless tweeters right? Can you try swapping tweeters around easily? Quick connects or soldered?
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Is there anything I can check with a meter? Would the ohm readying on the woofer be a good flag or maybe the crossover?
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Are they fused? Have you tried removing the fuse and cleaning up the fuse holder contacts?
My money is on a bad tweeter though.afterburnt wrote: »They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.
Village Idiot of Club Polk -
Yeah I replaced the fuse and put deoxit all over it. Perhaps it is the tweeter. I tried getting an ohm reading on it and it was between 2-3. Well since this was given free with my 5's I'll stalk eBay for a tweeter and see if that does the trick. Thanks for the help.Are they fused? Have you tried removing the fuse and cleaning up the fuse holder contacts?
My money is on a bad tweeter though.
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Would this work? https://www.ebay.com/itm/152189501861
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If you're going to desolder the tweeters anyway might as well swap around a known good tweeter you have and make sure that's the issue.afterburnt wrote: »They didn't speak a word of English, they were from South Carolina.
Village Idiot of Club Polk -
If you're going to desolder the tweeters anyway might as well swap around a known good tweeter you have and make sure that's the issue.
Can i swap tweeters between my 7b and 5a's? The left and right channel sevens mid range woofers are glued on. I assume the tweeter is as well. -
My tweeter on 7A's (peerless) measures 4 ohm. Not sure if Peerless made 8 ohm but I think the later Polk tweeters are 8 ohm. Same ohm means you can switch afik.When freedom is outlawed, only outlaws are free...
