scotts liquid gold to shine your gear

It not only cleans and shines but it stays good for a long time.

Its great for wood and such, but on black surfaces, it really shines and evens the finish almost like new.

try it once and let us know, I'm still working from an old metal can because it doesn't take much, hopefully they have not "IMPROVED" it since they made this can.
humpty dumpty was pushed

Comments

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,735
    The ingredients are hydroteated petroleum oil and naphtha. I wouldn't put that on furniture never mind audio gear.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • cnh
    cnh Posts: 13,284
    edited June 2016
    F1nut wrote: »
    The ingredients are hydroteated petroleum oil and naphtha. I wouldn't put that on furniture never mind audio gear.

    @Jesse
    I have some older ADS, Dynacos, KLH, Realistic Nova's, etc. with real wood veneers. What would you suggest for them? I know there is a lot of talk on other forums about Howard's but I've seen your posts warning against using this liquid treatment. Most of these older finishes, I think, are treated with oils, or were originally. I'm just worried about things like humidity or lack thereof cracking the wood, etc. Want to keep things fresh, bring back a bit of the original look.

    That beautiful work on those Baby Advents was quite remarkable. Yeah, I'm still awake, been writing like the Devil every night when the world slumbers, thank God, MOST people go away at night, it's so hard to hear oneself think (even paying too much attention to this forum leads to blockage)! lol Thanks!
    Currently orbiting Bowie's Blackstar.!

    Polk Lsi-7s, Def Tech 8" sub, HK 3490, HK HD 990 (CDP/DAC), AKG Q701s
    [sig. changed on a monthly basis as I rotate in and out of my stash]
  • scottyboy76
    scottyboy76 Posts: 2,905
    F1nut wrote: »
    The ingredients are hydroteated petroleum oil and naphtha. I wouldn't put that on furniture never mind audio gear.

    Well you aren't any fun anymore jesse,LOL.

    swriously I appreciate the advice from an experienced hand.

    I have mainly used it on older kinda dingy black painted metal chassis, do you think that would be as big a problem as on wood.

    BTW, would love to see some of your work on antiques.
    humpty dumpty was pushed
  • Jstas
    Jstas Posts: 14,842
    The problem is that naphtha and the hydrogenated oils remove moisture and natural oils from wood. Naphtha is a solvent, afterall. So, like Armor All products do to your car, you have to keep using them to maintain the preferred finish.

    However, you're damaging the wood underneath it.

    On a black metal chassis, as long as it isn't dissolving the paint (naphtha is a paint thinner/stripper), it's not really going to harm anything unless it had a polymer based protective coating.

    Naphtha based cleaners are good at removing the caked on crud that people tend to leave on furniture and such over the years but if you're going to use them you have to condition the wood afterwards to restore what you stripped out. It's better to just not use them at all.

    Even something like Murphy's Oil Soap or that Amish stuff (actual ex-Amish guy who was a carpenter told me it's horse hockey, no Amish ever used it or made it) isn't really any good. The only stuff I use Murphy's Oil Soap on is stuff that has polyurethane on it because nothing really gets through polyurethane once it's cured. It's very non-reactive which makes it a superior replacement to the varnishes and shellacs in terms of protecting wood. The nice thing about polyurethane too, is that if it's damaged, you can sand the damaged part down and then reapply the polyurethane.
    Expert Moron Extraordinaire

    You're just jealous 'cause the voices don't talk to you!
  • motorhead43026
    motorhead43026 Posts: 3,904
    I just clean my wood veneers with mild soap and water once in a while. Keep them out of direct sunlight and away from heat such as heat registers. I have several prized veneer pieces from the 50's that look good as new. People feel the need to use substances that claim to feed the wood. Well, we all know that wood used in furniture is dead....lol.
    The best way to predict the future is to invent it.

    It is imperative that we recognize that an opinion is not a fact.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,735
    cnh wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »
    The ingredients are hydroteated petroleum oil and naphtha. I wouldn't put that on furniture never mind audio gear.

    @Jesse
    I have some older ADS, Dynacos, KLH, Realistic Nova's, etc. with real wood veneers. What would you suggest for them? I know there is a lot of talk on other forums about Howard's but I've seen your posts warning against using this liquid treatment. Most of these older finishes, I think, are treated with oils, or were originally. I'm just worried about things like humidity or lack thereof cracking the wood, etc. Want to keep things fresh, bring back a bit of the original look.

    That beautiful work on those Baby Advents was quite remarkable. Yeah, I'm still awake, been writing like the Devil every night when the world slumbers, thank God, MOST people go away at night, it's so hard to hear oneself think (even paying too much attention to this forum leads to blockage)! lol Thanks!

    Use Watco or another penetrating type oil. That is what was originally used. Be sure to soak the rags in water and lay them flat on the ground outside to dry. Howard's is the wrong stuff and I wouldn't use it regardless.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,735
    F1nut wrote: »
    The ingredients are hydroteated petroleum oil and naphtha. I wouldn't put that on furniture never mind audio gear.

    Well you aren't any fun anymore jesse,LOL.

    swriously I appreciate the advice from an experienced hand.

    I have mainly used it on older kinda dingy black painted metal chassis, do you think that would be as big a problem as on wood.

    BTW, would love to see some of your work on antiques.

    It's oil any way you look at it. If the paint is spent, repaint it.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • ken brydson
    ken brydson Posts: 8,780
    F1nut wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »
    The ingredients are hydroteated petroleum oil and naphtha. I wouldn't put that on furniture never mind audio gear.

    Well you aren't any fun anymore jesse,LOL.

    swriously I appreciate the advice from an experienced hand.

    I have mainly used it on older kinda dingy black painted metal chassis, do you think that would be as big a problem as on wood.

    BTW, would love to see some of your work on antiques.

    It's oil any way you look at it. If the paint is spent, repaint it.

    But where do you find the elusive black paint old wise one?
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,735
    Even I cannot answer that one.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • cnh
    cnh Posts: 13,284
    edited June 2016
    F1nut wrote: »
    cnh wrote: »
    F1nut wrote: »
    The ingredients are hydroteated petroleum oil and naphtha. I wouldn't put that on furniture never mind audio gear.


    Use Watco or another penetrating type oil. That is what was originally used. Be sure to soak the rags in water and lay them flat on the ground outside to dry. Howard's is the wrong stuff and I wouldn't use it regardless.





    Thanks, Jesse

    That makes a lot of sense. Will check Watco out, already seen it online.
    Currently orbiting Bowie's Blackstar.!

    Polk Lsi-7s, Def Tech 8" sub, HK 3490, HK HD 990 (CDP/DAC), AKG Q701s
    [sig. changed on a monthly basis as I rotate in and out of my stash]
  • warren
    warren Posts: 756
    I have beautiful LSI 9's I use the mfg. cleaning instructions. They look brand new!
    Some final words,
    "If you keep banging your head against the wall,
    you're going to have headaches."
    Warren
  • warren
    warren Posts: 756
    Oh, forgot the cleaning instructions.. TAKING CARE OF YOUR LSi SERIES LOUDSPEAKERS
    The side panels of your new LSi Loudspeakers are finished in natural wood veneer. Clean these panels periodically with a soft cloth and furniture polish to remove dust and fingerprints. Avoid harsh detergents and cleaning fluids [figure 13]. Clean and dust the Gloss Black veneer area with a damp cloth only. Do not use furniture polish on the Gloss Black veneer. Carefully vacuum the grilles to remove dust.
    Some final words,
    "If you keep banging your head against the wall,
    you're going to have headaches."
    Warren