Bi-amp/wire LSiM 703s
I just purchased a pair of 703s during the recent F&F sale. For now they with be used in a 5.1 HT with an older Sony ES SC-25 HT receiver. The SC-25 has 2 un-used amp. Is there any benefit to remove the 703 jumpers and bi-amp/wire them?
Comments
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Bi-amping from a receiver won't produce additional benifits.
If you already have bi-wire cables, remove the jumpers and go for it.
Otherwise, just get some 10 gauge cable and make your own jumpers for them.
I've done a lot of research and some real life experimenting. Looking at your current setup, I would put said money into other aspects first.2 ChannelTurntable - VPI Classic 2/Ortofon 2M BlueAmplification - Rogue Audio Cronus Magnum II, Parks Audio Budgie PhonoSpeakers - GoldenEar Triton 17.2 Home TheaterDenon AVR-X3300W; Rotel RMB-1066; Klipsch RP-280F's, Klipsch RP-450C, Polk FXi3's, Polk RC60i; Dual SVS PB 2000's; BenQ HT2050; Elite Screens 120"Man CaveTurntable - Pro-Ject 2.9 Wood/Grado GoldAmplification - Dared SL2000a, McCormack DNA 0.5 DeluxeCD: Cambridge AudioSpeakers - Wharfedale Linton 85th Anniversary; LSiM 703; SDA 2A -
I just purchased a pair of 703s during the recent F&F sale. For now they with be used in a 5.1 HT with an older Sony ES SC-25 HT receiver. The SC-25 has 2 un-used amp. Is there any benefit to remove the 703 jumpers and bi-amp/wire them?
The benefit is already there by not using those extra 2 channels. The other channels are receiving more current by not using them.
Other than that, always a good idea to replace those jumpers with quality wire of the same gauge as your speaker wire.HT SYSTEM-
Sony 850c 4k
Pioneer elite vhx 21
Sony 4k BRP
SVS SB-2000
Polk Sig. 20's
Polk FX500 surrounds
Cables-
Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable
Kitchen
Sonos zp90
Grant Fidelity tube dac
B&k 1420
lsi 9's -
I just purchased a pair of 703s during the recent F&F sale. For now they with be used in a 5.1 HT with an older Sony ES SC-25 HT receiver. The SC-25 has 2 un-used amp. Is there any benefit to remove the 703 jumpers and bi-amp/wire them?
The benefit is already there by not using those extra 2 channels. The other channels are receiving more current by not using them.
Other than that, always a good idea to replace those jumpers with quality wire of the same gauge as your speaker wire.
This is just a question and not an argument.
Would the speakers not use the same amount of current from the power supply when bi-amped as when using a single wire with jumpers in place or would they be harder to drive when bi-amped?
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The more channels used, the less power per channel you get.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
I just purchased a pair of 703s during the recent F&F sale. For now they with be used in a 5.1 HT with an older Sony ES SC-25 HT receiver. The SC-25 has 2 un-used amp. Is there any benefit to remove the 703 jumpers and bi-amp/wire them?
The benefit is already there by not using those extra 2 channels. The other channels are receiving more current by not using them.
Other than that, always a good idea to replace those jumpers with quality wire of the same gauge as your speaker wire.
This is just a question and not an argument.
Would the speakers not use the same amount of current from the power supply when bi-amped as when using a single wire with jumpers in place or would they be harder to drive when bi-amped?
Depends....like F1NUT said, the more channels used, the less power all channels get. When talking receivers, the best scenario is 2 channel mode, so all the power is applied to just those 2 speakers.....regardless how it's wired up.
That's best case for a receiver to output power, next is getting it to the speakers. The appropriate gauge wire either to one post or both on the speakers is essential. When using jumpers, wired jumpers, you'd want the same gauge and brand as the main speaker cables.
Talking receivers, that's about as much as you can do to get power out of them, everything else is marketing hype. This is why, instead of looking at gimmicky bi-amp features many tout, you should be looking to see if you have pre-outs to add a dedicated amp down the line should the need for more power arise.HT SYSTEM-
Sony 850c 4k
Pioneer elite vhx 21
Sony 4k BRP
SVS SB-2000
Polk Sig. 20's
Polk FX500 surrounds
Cables-
Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable
Kitchen
Sonos zp90
Grant Fidelity tube dac
B&k 1420
lsi 9's -
Here is a perfect example of an amps specs that portray one thing and actually do another once you dig in. The front of the cut sheet says it's a 50watt per channel amp, but this is true only under certain conditions.
[/quote]Audio - 2 Channel Mode
Rated Power/Channel 30 Watts, 20Hz to 20KHz
(RMS, 2 channels driven into 8 ohms)
Power/Channel 50 Watts, 20Hz to 20KHz
(RMS, 2 channels driven into 4 ohms)
1KHz testing
IHF Dynamic Power 40 Watts/1KHz at 8 ohm load
60 Watts/1KHz at 4 ohm load
Anything above 20W will add additional Harmonic Distortion
Total Harmonic Distortion @20W/8ohm, 0.5%[/quote]
2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC
erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a -
I still like my car analogy. Think of your car, it's engine is the same as the power supply in a receiver. It's torque is the same as current. Driving just the 2 rear wheels, you can lay some rubber, but if that same engine drove all 4 wheels, and in a receivers case 5 or 7 channels, that power is spread out and none will have the ability to lay rubber.
So if your not using additional channels on a receiver, that's a good thing. Remember, a receiver is a jack of all trades, master of none. It can be all things to some people in one tidy box. It's main objective though is HT. Unfortunately all but the top of the line receivers have limited torque to drive more demanding speakers so your limited in speaker choices. Unless you have preouts to add an amp, add a bigger engine with more torque.
Sooner or later we all want bigger and better speakers, you just have to consider the needs to power them too, without trying to McGiver a receiver to do it because that's a futile road to go down.HT SYSTEM-
Sony 850c 4k
Pioneer elite vhx 21
Sony 4k BRP
SVS SB-2000
Polk Sig. 20's
Polk FX500 surrounds
Cables-
Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable
Kitchen
Sonos zp90
Grant Fidelity tube dac
B&k 1420
lsi 9's -
Thanks all - I did not biamp or biwire. Just added the 706 center channel. What a monster!
Now wondering about the benefit of adding an external 5 channel amp? I know the 703's and the 706 are supposed to be easier to drive than the previous models. By the the way, the 703's and the 706 has pretty hefty jumpers. Still recommend replacing the jumper? Also looking a some DYI douglasconnection cables. -
I still like my car analogy. Think of your car, it's engine is the same as the power supply in a receiver. It's torque is the same as current. Driving just the 2 rear wheels, you can lay some rubber, but if that same engine drove all 4 wheels, and in a receivers case 5 or 7 channels, that power is spread out and none will have the ability to lay rubber.
So if your not using additional channels on a receiver, that's a good thing. Remember, a receiver is a jack of all trades, master of none. It can be all things to some people in one tidy box. It's main objective though is HT. Unfortunately all but the top of the line receivers have limited torque to drive more demanding speakers so your limited in speaker choices. Unless you have preouts to add an amp, add a bigger engine with more torque.
Sooner or later we all want bigger and better speakers, you just have to consider the needs to power them too, without trying to McGiver a receiver to do it because that's a futile road to go down.
So... following that analogy (pretty good), then I need an engine (amp) for each wheel pair and I could really tell a difference?Music: Oppo103 - Parasound JC2 - Parasound A21- SDA 3.1
Theater: Denon 3808 - B&K 7500/Emotiva XPA-3- RTi12, CSi5, RTiA7x4, PSW505
Sleeping: Marantz 70005 - Harman Kardon 2400 - SDA 2
2 Channel: Cary 306 SACD - Canary Audio 906 - Pass Labs x250 - PS Audio Perfectwave DAC, Polk LSiM705, SVS SB13 Ultra
Office: Dell Optiplex, Emotiva XDA-2, Adcom 5500, LSiM 703
Spares: Yamaha CA-810; LSi 15; Kenwood Basic M2a, Yamaha M60/M80, Polk Monitor 7, SVS SB13 Ultra -
Not necessarily for each pair. The front left and right and center do all the heavy lifting, those should be on an amp. Surrounds usually only do ambient sounds, not too demanding, and if your receiver is decent and speakers fairly efficient, you can get away with letting the receiver handle the surrounds.
Yes, you will hear a difference with an amp btw.HT SYSTEM-
Sony 850c 4k
Pioneer elite vhx 21
Sony 4k BRP
SVS SB-2000
Polk Sig. 20's
Polk FX500 surrounds
Cables-
Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable
Kitchen
Sonos zp90
Grant Fidelity tube dac
B&k 1420
lsi 9's