RT2000-P Crossover Location & Replacement

esunetdude

I have two RT2000-P speakers, purchased sometime in 2000 (or maybe 1999). They are physically mint and the powered subs are fine. One of the pair lost output from the tweeter so I thought for sure the tweeter was toast. After replacing it I realized there is sound but at a very low volume. I swapped the tweeter from the working speaker and the problem stays at the speaker so I now believe the crossover is toast.

So the question is where I can purchase a replacement crossover for the RT2000-P? And where inside the speaker is the crossover located? I pulled the power module but the crossover appears to be somewhere in the top.

Ideas or thoughts on this are greatly appreciated. I just hate to toss these because they really look awesome and the one is still working like a champ. So someone please help me locate the crossover and find a replacement.

[Deleted User]

Hello,
Welcome to Polk's forum. I believe the speaker's crossover is located on the other side of the mid-range driver (if memory is correct). You'll have to use a 9/64th Allen wrench to remove the screws that go around the bezel that's covering the tweeter and driver. The bezel will have the tweeter attached, then use a putty knife to carefully pry up the mid-range driver and the crossover should be on the other side.
Usually damaged crossover components can be spotted from the blackened look of resistors or leaking/exploded capacitors. For Polk assistance telephone 1-800-377-7655.
Regards, Ken

tonyb

You don't buy a different crossover for reasons Ken already stated. You get them rebuilt. Many members here can do that for you at a reasonable price. Send Westmassguy a P.M. and he can get you straight.

However, rebuilding the crossover will alter the sound somewhat too and if you don't do both speakers, they will sound different. Kinda like having one front tire on your car bald and the other brand new.

tonyb

Snap a pic and send it to Westmassguy, he'll help you DIY, tell ya what you'll need.

esunetdude

Okay, I was able to remove the tweeter and mid and remove the crossover. The part number of the crossover is RTE2000-P / RE-0606-P. The circuit board is dark under the large sandohm resitor and one side of the resistor easily pulled from the board. Fixing the solder connection didn't resolve the problem. I will replace the resistor. The capacitors all look fine - none exploded and none burned. I also verified the tweeter and replacement tweeter work by connecting the amplifier output direct (at low volume to protect them from damage).

Since I understand the original crossover is no longer available, and I have read where some people tried third party crossovers, can anyone recommend an alternative crossover?

[Deleted User]

Any good speaker's crossover is tailored to that design, a generic crossover is going to alter the sound. My advice is to repair the original as closely as possible.

esunetdude

Thanks Ken and Tony for the answers. As luck would have it, I am somewhat at home with electronics. I am a licensed ham radio operator so using a multimeter and handling a solder gun are nothing new to me.

Out of curiosity I traced the board by looking at top and bottom and it DOES NOT match the crossover schematic posted for the RT2000-P. Further the board shows RTE2000-P so I believe my speakers ended up with the European crossover. The large sandohm resister that appears to have gotten hot and come free one side isn't in the tweeter circuit at all, it's in the midrange circuit. Actually the tweeter circuit looks fairly simple and I could easily swap it's tweeter components for those shown in the original RT2000-P schematic. I'd really love to hear from people that compared both to know how much difference there is.

In the meantime, a really simple way to determine which of the three tweeter components has gone bad is to connect it, play the amp at low volume, and use a small wire to jumper over each. Whichever one brings the tweeter back to life is the culprit. Not sure about the coil (or choke) but the resistor and capacitor are easily replaced. And yep, I already guessed that the other crossover would need touching as well.