How to Bi-Amp my PSB's?
hochpt21
Posts: 5,423
I currently have them bi-wired from my Musical Fidelity A308. The manual for the A308 states the following...
PRE-AMPLIFIER OUTPUT
The A308 amplifier has its pre-amplifier
output available from RCA sockets on the
back panel marked PRE-OUT, and is controlled
by the volume adjustment.
This is to allow “bi-amplification” using
suitable external amplifiers and crossover
networks to power the speaker drive components
separately, giving noticeable
improvement in clarity, imaging and bass
weight.
In this arrangement, typically the A308’s
speaker outputs are used to drive the speaker’s
“tweeter” (high audio frequencies), and
an external stereo amplifier drives the
“woofer” (low frequencies).
The A308’s PRE OUT RCA sockets
would therefore be connected to the input
of the external “woofer” amplifier in this
example.
If you are in doubt about bi-amplification,
please contact your dealer for advice.
I also have a Parasond HCA 1500. Could I use the A308 for the top binding posts and the Parasound for the bottom?
Would I run a pair of speaker cables from the MF to the upper binding posts, and then a pair of interconnects from the MF to the Parasound and then the lower post speaker cables from the Parasound to the lower posts?
I think I have an idea of how to do this, but don't want to blow anything up.
Please help.
Paul
PRE-AMPLIFIER OUTPUT
The A308 amplifier has its pre-amplifier
output available from RCA sockets on the
back panel marked PRE-OUT, and is controlled
by the volume adjustment.
This is to allow “bi-amplification” using
suitable external amplifiers and crossover
networks to power the speaker drive components
separately, giving noticeable
improvement in clarity, imaging and bass
weight.
In this arrangement, typically the A308’s
speaker outputs are used to drive the speaker’s
“tweeter” (high audio frequencies), and
an external stereo amplifier drives the
“woofer” (low frequencies).
The A308’s PRE OUT RCA sockets
would therefore be connected to the input
of the external “woofer” amplifier in this
example.
If you are in doubt about bi-amplification,
please contact your dealer for advice.
I also have a Parasond HCA 1500. Could I use the A308 for the top binding posts and the Parasound for the bottom?
Would I run a pair of speaker cables from the MF to the upper binding posts, and then a pair of interconnects from the MF to the Parasound and then the lower post speaker cables from the Parasound to the lower posts?
I think I have an idea of how to do this, but don't want to blow anything up.
Please help.
Paul
2 ChannelTurntable - VPI Classic 2/Ortofon 2M BlueAmplification - Rogue Audio Cronus Magnum II, Parks Audio Budgie PhonoSpeakers - GoldenEar Triton 17.2 Home TheaterDenon AVR-X3300W; Rotel RMB-1066; Klipsch RP-280F's, Klipsch RP-450C, Polk FXi3's, Polk RC60i; Dual SVS PB 2000's; BenQ HT2050; Elite Screens 120"Man CaveTurntable - Pro-Ject 2.9 Wood/Grado GoldAmplification - Dared SL2000a, McCormack DNA 0.5 DeluxeCD: Cambridge AudioSpeakers - Wharfedale Linton 85th Anniversary; LSiM 703; SDA 2A
Comments
-
Sounds like you have the right method in mind. Make sure to remove any existing jumpers/straps on your speaker binding posts. Have fun!
-
I posted the same thing at AVS forums. A little bit of a po0p-storm has ensued.
Some say yes, some say no.
Where is the head-scratching emoji when I need it?2 ChannelTurntable - VPI Classic 2/Ortofon 2M BlueAmplification - Rogue Audio Cronus Magnum II, Parks Audio Budgie PhonoSpeakers - GoldenEar Triton 17.2 Home TheaterDenon AVR-X3300W; Rotel RMB-1066; Klipsch RP-280F's, Klipsch RP-450C, Polk FXi3's, Polk RC60i; Dual SVS PB 2000's; BenQ HT2050; Elite Screens 120"Man CaveTurntable - Pro-Ject 2.9 Wood/Grado GoldAmplification - Dared SL2000a, McCormack DNA 0.5 DeluxeCD: Cambridge AudioSpeakers - Wharfedale Linton 85th Anniversary; LSiM 703; SDA 2A -
Are the naysayers worried about a mismatch in power output between your integrated and the external amp causing some sort of dissonance? Best way to find out is try it, IMHO. Electrically, I see no issues.
I have successfully used a passive preamp bi-amping with tube gear of dissimilar output rating. -
Here is the main response against it...
Passive, AKA fools biamping* bring no electrical or sonic benefit in any way. It is a complete waste of time and effort. Biwiring is the same.
The bolded text is ambiguous and reads as though they expect you to use an external xover at line level with the original passive xover removed. This type of multiamping can bring substantial improvements in performance, but it is far beyond the abilities of the average consumer to implement.
* This is where a full range signal is applied to both amplifiers and the original passive xover is used in situ, merely split at the speaker's binding posts.2 ChannelTurntable - VPI Classic 2/Ortofon 2M BlueAmplification - Rogue Audio Cronus Magnum II, Parks Audio Budgie PhonoSpeakers - GoldenEar Triton 17.2 Home TheaterDenon AVR-X3300W; Rotel RMB-1066; Klipsch RP-280F's, Klipsch RP-450C, Polk FXi3's, Polk RC60i; Dual SVS PB 2000's; BenQ HT2050; Elite Screens 120"Man CaveTurntable - Pro-Ject 2.9 Wood/Grado GoldAmplification - Dared SL2000a, McCormack DNA 0.5 DeluxeCD: Cambridge AudioSpeakers - Wharfedale Linton 85th Anniversary; LSiM 703; SDA 2A -
If you've got the IC's and speaker cables, doesn't cost anything but a few minutes to find out what you think for yourself. Personally, I'm put off by absolute statements like those found in the quoted response. Our hobby has a myriad of subjective nuances that vary by listener. Enjoy the journey regardless of your decision.
-
BlueMDPicker wrote: »If you've got the IC's and speaker cables, doesn't cost anything but a few minutes to find out what you think for yourself. Personally, I'm put off by absolute statements like those found in the quoted response. Our hobby has a myriad of subjective nuances that vary by listener. Enjoy the journey regardless of your decision.
Thanks for the comments, Blue. Not sure if I'll get around to it or not.
The deeper I dig, it seems even the proponents of it admit the real life difference is fairly negligible, and are more arguing in favor of the science.
I didn't understand how bi-amping worked and now I know it has way more to do with crossovers etc...than just hooking up different amps to different binding posts.2 ChannelTurntable - VPI Classic 2/Ortofon 2M BlueAmplification - Rogue Audio Cronus Magnum II, Parks Audio Budgie PhonoSpeakers - GoldenEar Triton 17.2 Home TheaterDenon AVR-X3300W; Rotel RMB-1066; Klipsch RP-280F's, Klipsch RP-450C, Polk FXi3's, Polk RC60i; Dual SVS PB 2000's; BenQ HT2050; Elite Screens 120"Man CaveTurntable - Pro-Ject 2.9 Wood/Grado GoldAmplification - Dared SL2000a, McCormack DNA 0.5 DeluxeCD: Cambridge AudioSpeakers - Wharfedale Linton 85th Anniversary; LSiM 703; SDA 2A -
It will probably drive you nuts until you give it a go.
Without venturing too near the mouth of the science rabbit hole, I would submit that woofers and tweeters generally have different levels of damping energy (damping factor). There may be some sonic benefit to controlling that energy with separate amplifiers? The fact that you have separate binding posts for HF and LF is a pretty solid indicator the crossover network "in situ" (loved that one!) is separate and distinct for each range of frequencies. I'm just sayin'.... -
BlueMDPicker wrote: »It will probably drive you nuts until you give it a go.
Without venturing too near the mouth of the science rabbit hole, I would submit that woofers and tweeters generally have different levels of damping energy (damping factor). There may be some sonic benefit to controlling that energy with separate amplifiers? The fact that you have separate binding posts for HF and LF is a pretty solid indicator the crossover network "in situ" (loved that one!) is separate and distinct for each range of frequencies. I'm just sayin'....
You're right, it probably will
When I get a rainy day off with nothing to do, maybe I'll give it a go and let you know2 ChannelTurntable - VPI Classic 2/Ortofon 2M BlueAmplification - Rogue Audio Cronus Magnum II, Parks Audio Budgie PhonoSpeakers - GoldenEar Triton 17.2 Home TheaterDenon AVR-X3300W; Rotel RMB-1066; Klipsch RP-280F's, Klipsch RP-450C, Polk FXi3's, Polk RC60i; Dual SVS PB 2000's; BenQ HT2050; Elite Screens 120"Man CaveTurntable - Pro-Ject 2.9 Wood/Grado GoldAmplification - Dared SL2000a, McCormack DNA 0.5 DeluxeCD: Cambridge AudioSpeakers - Wharfedale Linton 85th Anniversary; LSiM 703; SDA 2A -
An external xover is the correct way to biamp. Without it, just mental masterbation imho.Main Rig:
Krell KAV 250a biamped to mid/highs
Parasound HCA1500A biamped to lows
Nakamichi EC100 Active xover
MIT exp 1 ic's
Perreaux SA33 class A preamp
AQ kingcobra ic's
OPPO 83 CDP
Lehmann audio black cube SE phono pre, Audioquest phono wire (ITA1/1)
Denon DP-1200 TT. AToc9ML MC cart.
Monster HTS 3600 power conditioner
ADS L1590/2 Biamped
MIT exps2 speaker cable