Keep it cool and actively ventilated
Gunther16
Posts: 243
in Electronics
Recently after modification to my vintage Polks I found that my Krell amplifier bit the dust. On analyses by Krell it cost me $861.00 to get it fixed. Major culprit "HEAT". Now I know heat kills electronics but thought that since they had wide openings on 2 sides inside cabinet that this was sufficient, I was wrong. Internal temperatures during operation exceeded 125deg Farenheit. Since then I added active ventilation to cabinets and now internal temperature does not exceed 83deg under the most demanding situations. Invest in an active ventilation system to save those expensive electronics.
Words of wisdom learned the hard way!
Words of wisdom learned the hard way!
Comments
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Wow, hate that happened to you.Pio Elete Pro 520
Panamax 5400-EX
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Not being used:
RTi 38's -4
RT55i's - 2
RT25i's -2, using other 2 in shop
LSI 15's
CSi40
PSW 404 -
Came as quite a surprise Vmax. Thanks to looking ahead I still had an adcom in reserve so I could "burn in" the modified Polks. Adcoms did ok but Krell was the icing on the cake!
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Could you post some pics of your fan setup? I have my amp in a similar cabinet, but there is at least a foot of space above it. It is designed to run hot, but have felt some forced cooling would be good. Curious how you positioned things.
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Will do. Ventilation cost was less than 80 bucks and made a huge difference. I did have to block one side as the active ventilation airflowwas bypassing the amps ventilation openings.
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Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 *
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Just think if it was in a cabinet! Cook you a burger/steak! Yes Krell 3250 and it gets too hot to touch when pushed. I talked to Krell customer service who advised me to actively ventilate if installed in cabinet as there would be only minimal air movement although both front and rear were open. Obviously the rising air just sits on top of the amp and gets progressively warmer. Customer service said that actively ventilating is recommended as it removes the excessive hot air but does not affect the internal temperature requirements of the unit when operating. I do not measure the actual temperature of the unit itself but the ambient temp in the enclosure. To the touch it is much warmer than the mentioned 83 degrees. The active ventilation just removes the excess accumulated heat.
Nice setup you have I bet it sounds sweet -
Could you post some pics of your fan setup? I have my amp in a similar cabinet, but there is at least a foot of space above it. It is designed to run hot, but have felt some forced cooling would be good. Curious how you positioned things.
@DaveHo
You could always use a laptop cooler with a large fan to pull their up and through the amp.
I keep meaning to get one of the Thermaltake ones for my B&K and another for the Denon AVR."....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963) -
A few years ago the wife and I bought a new entertainment center and my Marantz receiver and Yamaha power amp were going to be behind doors in an enclosed area. I purchased several of these fans and installed them in the back of the entertainment center to pull the heat out.
http://www.amazon.com/AC-Infinity-AIRPLATE-Cooling-Cabinets/dp/B009COQYA0?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
Then I bought two of these Antec coolers and placed one on top of the Marantz and one on top of the Yamaha. They have two fans on the bottom that draw the heat from the unit and vents it out the back.
http://www.amazon.com/ANTEC-Notebook-Cooler-V-COOLER/dp/B000QJ4ZE2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00
Works really well.
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Awesome!
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The only thing I've read about those Antec's is that they don't pull a ton of air out.
Here is one option I've been looking at. IIRC the LED's can be turned off too
Also there is a company called "Coolerguys" that specialize in this type of stuff.
They have both cabinet kits, and kits for between components"....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963) -
This is interesting to me. Having a Krell w/ no load idle at 173* seems way high to me but never owning any amp besides the Adcom 555 maybe it's normal. All I do know is the heat sinks in the rear of the Adcom rarely even get warm and once I had of all my sets going at one time for a minute or 5 and still it only got warmer but never hot to the touch. My Yamaha is entirely a different story, the louder it goes it gets considerably hotter. I like that flat fan.
Footnote; I have to admit I was a tad tipsy that night and never run multiple speaker sets as a practice.2chl- Adcom GFA- 555-Onkyo P-3150v pre/amp- JVC-QL-A200 tt- Denon 1940 ci cdp- Adcom GFS-6 -Modded '87 SDA 2Bs - Dynamat Ext.- BH-5- X-Overs VR-3, RDO-194 tweeters, Larry's Rings, Speakon/Neutrik I/C- Cherry stain tops Advent Maestros,Ohm model E
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Bdrm- Nikko 6065 receiver- JBL -G-200s--Pioneer 305 headphones--Sony CE375-5 disc -
Krell equipment in general runs quite hot although I agree that 173 deg at idle seems excessive. My 3250 does not come close to that at idle but really pumps out the heat when asked to push.
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Pics of fan location and controller, guess I should have rotated them first. Still haven't figured out how to get them to just show in the body of the text?
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this might go without saying but it you put a fan on top always pull air away not blow into the amp etc.
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Thanks for the pics. The orientation of the pics is throwing me off. You have one set of fans in the Krell bay & one in the Adcom bay? Looks like the back of your cabinet is closed as well so it's forced to draw air from the front? Where'd you source the parts from? I really like the look of the controller.
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Yes Dave one set of fans in the Krell Bay and one set in the Adcom bay. The back on both bays has openings and draws the air. I need to keep the front doors closed (which I really love) as the fans draw from there when open and bypasses the unit ventilation openings. I purchased them from Amazon.com and they are AC Infinity Airplate S5 Quiet Cooling Fan System 8" with speed control at $24.99 each and AC Infinity AI-ATC, Fan Thermostat and speed Controller at $26.99 for a total of $76.97. The control unit is not really necessary as one can manually operate the fans but I like the convenience of setting a temperature and the controller operates the fans as required adjusting fan speed as needed. Kind of set and forget! I have only had them a week so cant say a lot about the longevity but so far they are doing exactly as advertised. You need to be the judge on what you need as there is a variety of cooling units and sizes available out there.
Hope this helps. One tip I can give you is not to make the air intake too large and if you use these units be sure to use the included templates and cut the openings for the fans and controller EXCACTLY to size. Location of the Fans is really up to you and dependent on configuration. I had to vent to the side but they can go anywhere you deem best. -
Depends on the design and the wattage. My Aleph 30 which is a single ended class A amp run full all the time (hence the single ended design) at idle all the power is dissipated as heat. The fins are too hot to touch for more than 6-8 seconds. Funny thing is, if you make it work hard it runs a tad bit cooler because full power is no longer dissipated on the fins, but through speakers.
It's designed this way and is totally normal and I have had zero issues with it out in the open. If I were to put it in an enclosed space it would need active ventilation. It also has a thermal cut off if it reaches 167*F on heat sink temp.
H9
P.s. The output transistors are run at 1/3 the maximum safe operating temp. So there's still plenty of room up the temp scale before failure in this case."Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul! -
leftwinger57 wrote: »This is interesting to me. Having a Krell w/ no load idle at 173* seems way high to me but never owning any amp besides the Adcom 555 maybe it's normal.
Nope, 173F is normal. It pulls over 10 amps at idle, normal too. Stable to 0.5 ohm.
Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 * -
What pictures you WONT SEE is that Rich got rid of his furnace and stove.
Nothing like making your morning Omlett on your amp."....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963) -
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LOL funny Dan.
Jasper uses it to keep warm during winter months. Sometimes to heat up his....
posterior.
Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 *