Neutrik Mounting
audiocr381ve
Posts: 2,588
Guys, long time no chat! I'll get to it..
I'm finally upgrading my SDA connection and have a couple of questions about mounting the Neutrik connectors.
The above picture shows small "tabs" on the female connector. I enlarged the holes on my binding posts cups to accommodate those tabs. I wanted to confirm whether or not that was the correct move (as opposed to enlarging them to NOT accommodate the small tabs) See picture below:
Lastly, I bought the 4 pole Neutrik connectors. I just wanted to confirm my thoughts on mounting the female connector. My thought is to drill the 4 holes necessary and mount them. I know - I can overcomplicate these things, but I did read a thread where someone said to just use two screws per connector?
Thanks guys!
I'm finally upgrading my SDA connection and have a couple of questions about mounting the Neutrik connectors.
The above picture shows small "tabs" on the female connector. I enlarged the holes on my binding posts cups to accommodate those tabs. I wanted to confirm whether or not that was the correct move (as opposed to enlarging them to NOT accommodate the small tabs) See picture below:
Lastly, I bought the 4 pole Neutrik connectors. I just wanted to confirm my thoughts on mounting the female connector. My thought is to drill the 4 holes necessary and mount them. I know - I can overcomplicate these things, but I did read a thread where someone said to just use two screws per connector?
Thanks guys!
Comments
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Which one is that as I don't recognize it. One thing for sure, it's not the recommended one, which only has 2 screw holes and no tabs. You have check the description carefully as not all of those are air tight.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Which one is that as I don't recognize it. One thing for sure, it's not the recommended one, which only has 2 screw holes and no tabs. You have check the description carefully as not all of those are air tight.
Oh yikes, that's not what I wanted to hear. Let me find the bag and get back to you. -
Here's what I have:
https://www.parts-express.com/neutrik-nlt4fx-bag-speakon-stx-4-pole-female-cable-connector-black-chrome-metal-housing--092-336
https://www.parts-express.com/neutrik-nlt4mp-bag-speakon-stx-4-pole-male-chassis-connector-black-chrome-metal-housing--092-340
I don't see anything about being air tight. I feel like a bum. -
Somebody in the comment section asked if the male chassis connector (which I've been referring to as "female") was airtight or not and got a response saying that they are indeed airtight. I think I'm okay here?
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Ok, I looked at Neutrik's site and came to the conclusion you got the NLTMP-BAG, which is ok. The other more commonly recommended version is the NL4MP-UC.
You might as well use all 4 screw holes, which are sized for 3M screws and be sure to seal up the backside of the hole it's in.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Ok, I looked at Neutrik's site and came to the conclusion you got the NLTMP-BAG, which is ok. The other more commonly recommended version is the NL4MP-UC.
You might as well use all 4 screw holes, which are sized for 3M screws and be sure to seal up the backside of the hole it's in.
Whew, sounds good! Thanks Jesse.
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Got this done tonight on my CRS+'s and I'm pretty sure I wired everything up right but I'd love if someone could confirm it for me.
I took SCompRacer's advice on continuity and connected the pin's to -2 on the Neutrik connectors, and the blade's on -1.
When I made the cables, I did the same. Positive (red) cable went to -2 and negative (black) went to -1.
I connected the cables to this bad boy which GlennDog sold me (+'s are the bottom posts and -'s are the tops).
It was too late to take a listen but I did fire the system up and it all seemed to work correctly at extremely low volume. Is there a quick and easy way to test or possibly even measure to see if I getting the right readings? -
Seems right to me. Just be sure to seal everything on the back of the binding post plate, hot glue works well.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Lookin sexy! Sounds about like what I did on my second dread, except I used the screw retainer vs. solder-on SpeakOns. Did you get the rubber mounting seals for the face side of the Speak-On?
VA HT HK AVR20II, Sony S9000ES CD/DVD/SACD, Polk Audio RC80i / Polk Audio CSi3, 60" Panasonic Plasma, Nordost / Signal Cable A2 / Wireworld / Pangea / Magic Power
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Signal Cable Silver Resolution IC's -
Lookin sexy! Sounds about like what I did on my second dread, except I used the screw retainer vs. solder-on SpeakOns. Did you get the rubber mounting seals for the face side of the Speak-On?
Crap, no. I already sealed everything with hot glue
These speakers are sounding GOOD. -
It's ok they will look and work great, I did the same thing.Yamaha RXA1030, Yamaha CD-S2100, Yamaha AS-2200, Bluesound node 2i
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It will look better, and work better either way.. That black box looks familiar
Enjoy!!
