New House Office Setup (V 2.0)

rooftop59

EndersShadow wrote: »

scubalab wrote: »

Sweet lookin' setup Dan! Somethin' in that rack looks very familiar...

You might give the folks at Anthem a call. IIRC, they told me another way to navigate through the menus (yes, the OSD sucks) and perhaps output video through the component?? I can't remember exactly what they said, so might be worth a quick call to them.

Wonder if they make a compnent to HDMI adapter so I can leave it connected to a HDMI Port and leave the composite port open for my gaming systems.......

Pretty sure mono price has something like that, probably not the best quality, but it would probably suffice for what you wanna do...

scubalab

This might work...

http://www.monoprice.com/mobile/product/imagegallery/5971

EndersShadow

Thanks guys! Will look at those for sure.

In the meantime I finally just forced myself to move the HTPC upstairs to the loft.

I had to reconfigure the setup a couple times but around 2 am this morning this finally emerged as the final product.





I still need to totally redo the cable management but will wait until I make sure this is the final iteration of the setup. I'm already debating moving the Carver C-1 to the bottom shelf on top the APC unit if it will fit and then center the NAS and Roku 2.

I also brought up with the HTPC the PS Audio AC-3 that was on it downstairs and that is now on the Anthem (after removing the ground pin).

I'm going to buy some really small plastic ziplock type bags to put the ground pins in and zip tie it to the cable for now so I dont lose it.

I also hope to buy some other PS Audio AC-3's before the price gets jacked up. I'd like to get one for at least the APC H15. The computer on the right due to how its setup would be very difficult to get a AC-3 to where it needs to go. The HTPC (computer with the lock on the door) would be easier but not sure I need one on either device TBH.

The main computer has all my music on it and is running Squeezebox server and the HTPC is running PLEX server for all my movies.

I "may" eventually buy a 1TB SSD or a 2 TB HGST drive for all my music and move that over to the HTPC as its overall a much faster machine. However for now hardwiring everything but the Squeezebox's seems to have solved the speed and dropout issues I've been having so I'm not worried about it.

Additionally the HTPC doesnt have a coaxial output so I'd need some sort of USB to coaxial adapter or just a USB DAC to use with the anthem and for now I dont want to mess with it.

The NAS is still working great and I've backed up the main pc and laptop to it. Tonight I plan to backup the OS from the HTPC to it as there is no way there is enough space there to backup all the movies.

I hope to get a APC UPS for my birthday or fathers day to run the computers and NAS off of, but we will see. I am very close to maxing out this rack as it stands, but the APC battery backup would reside on the side of the unit if I were to acquire one like I'm hoping for (the 1500 model would be the best)

EndersShadow

I'm also actively looking for bookshelves or skinny towers to pair with the Anthem.

I've found a DIY Sub that will function perfectly as an end table in the room. Its a ported 6 cubic foot design that will utilize a 18" driver. Like all things kid proof it will be downfiring so they cant load toys into the ports or poke the driver.

Its fairly tight on either side so I need something that is less than 9.5" wide, 10" deep and can be up to 37" tall if its a tower.

I'm thinking about going DIY so I can finish the sub, speakers, and also a enclosure to cover the minifridge (wife hates that its white, but it was free and it works great so I'm gonna make it work) in the same material and stain.

I'm also open to just doing a soundbar for the TV part using Zone 2 out on the Anthem and then having some bookshelves/towers in the middle of the room on the half wall, however I dont think my wife will go for that.

Alternately I could again go soundbar on that top shelf and then recess the TV back farther into that corner as far as it will go and set speakers on either side of that window opening firing the long way into the room, however the couch would get into the way.

I also have some plans for some wall sconces that will utilize wood paired with black pipe and edison bulbs, as well as some shelves using the same pipe...

I've told my wife that this is the ONE room I'm in charge of furnishing and that its NOT going to look like the other rooms so its still somewhat of a man cave.

EndersShadow

And lastly ANY suggestions on what to do about the ugly utility closet doors and how to quiet that system down would be appreciated.

The return for the furnace is on side of the utility closet and gets quite loud. Can I install dynamat all over it to help add mass and deaden it?

Can I build some sort of covering that covers the gaps between the sliding doors, or do I need that space for air movement?

I'm open to ideas/suggestions, etc....

mrbiron

Try replacing the el cheapo hollow core door with a solid or insulated. Add a sweep to the bottom if you think noise is coming from under the door. OH, and you can gasket all around the door as well.

You could try some insulated duct wrap on the return to deaden the vibrations. Homer Depot will carry this. As for the furnace itself, i have no professional opinion on deadening that. They have historically been loud with startup being the peak.

Sound insulation would have been nice around that room but most builders don't install it mainly because they aren't going to be ones that live there. Time is money and little upgrades like that don't sell a house.

EndersShadow

mrbiron wrote: »

Try replacing the el cheapo hollow core door with a solid or insulated. Add a sweep to the bottom if you think noise is coming from under the door. OH, and you can gasket all around the door as well.

Good Idea, I will look into both of those for sure.

mrbiron wrote: »

You could try some insulated duct wrap on the return to deaden the vibrations. Homer Depot will carry this. As for the furnace itself, i have no professional opinion on deadening that. They have historically been loud with startup being the peak.

Will also look at the insulated duct wrap. Access back there is kinda super tight (see picts) though so not sure how successful that will be lol.



Shot of the intake:




Should I put that tape on these connections on the output side as well?








I know I cant make the furnace any quieter, though its due for replacement soon as its 15+ years old, so hopefully the "new" one will be quieter but I'm not holding my breath.

mrbiron wrote: »

Sound insulation would have been nice around that room but most builders don't install it mainly because they aren't going to be ones that live there. Time is money and little upgrades like that don't sell a house.

Yeah I have been pondering opening up that whole entire little wall given that closet area is indented in so the amount of drywall to replace would be quite minimal. If I were to do that I'm guessing just use Roxul or 703 in there or is there something else you'd recommend?

Here is what that section looks like (when the house was totally empty)

Shot of the Utility closet

tonyb

EndersShadow wrote: »

And lastly ANY suggestions on what to do about the ugly utility closet doors and how to quiet that system down would be appreciated.

The return for the furnace is on side of the utility closet and gets quite loud. Can I install dynamat all over it to help add mass and deaden it?

Can I build some sort of covering that covers the gaps between the sliding doors, or do I need that space for air movement?

I'm open to ideas/suggestions, etc....

Usually Dan, a furnace needs air movement around it, they don't do well in a sealed location. You can probably check and see if they make a quieter blower motor, but that might be an expensive proposition.

I think that's one aspect you may have to live with. Anything to quiet the noise will most likely restrict air flow....and you can't do that with a furnace. You can always have someone move that air intake duct to another area though, but again, may not be all that cheap. Use the volume dial to drown it out.

EndersShadow

tonyb wrote: »

Usually Dan, a furnace needs air movement around it, they don't do well in a sealed location. You can probably check and see if they make a quieter blower motor, but that might be an expensive proposition.

I think that's one aspect you may have to live with. Anything to quiet the noise will most likely restrict air flow....and you can't do that with a furnace. You can always have someone move that air intake duct to another area though, but again, may not be all that cheap. Use the volume dial to drown it out.

Yeah, there really isnt any other place to move the intake unfortunately

And replacing the blower motor given the age of the unit it probably not worth it.

When we go to replace it I will look to see what can be done then, but for now your probably right, I've just got to live with it.

I'm going to look into the solid core doors as that should help and heck maybe even dynamat the heck out of the inside of that door as well just because lol.....

I'm also thinking I should try to seal up those duct joints in general even if not for noise purposes as it helps with leaks.

The blower is most of the problem though and baring a new unit I'm trying at this point mainly to lower the noise floor where I can.

polk500

@mrbiron advise sounds like a man whose been there and done that , as for the cold air return depending on how many you have in your house and locations you may have the option of sealing that one off.
As been explain to me by a couple of HVAC installer friends there are usually too many in most modern homes anyway and closing off one won't make a difference to the system.
If I understand the location of the one in question it is located on the second floor in an area that is open up to the main body of the house?
If so and if you have returns down on the lower level then sealing off the one upstairs may work out in your favour as we all know hot air rises and have that one closed will force the one or ones on the main floor to pull warm air down which will help with keeping your house warmer / more comfortable in the winter time.

Cheers

mrbiron

Oh....i thought your utility closet was in the corner of your loft by the window. Oops!

There isn't much you can do with the return unless like T-bone mentioned, getting it moved but my assumptions are your options were limited to that location. Looks like the bathroom is on the back side.

You can put duct tape (no duck tape) on the sheetmetal joints. That won't hurt anything.

The two access doors on the front of the furnace are the access points and might already have insulation on the backside of the panel. I don't think deadening will do anything for you there.

mrbiron

Here's my comical option:

If you yell while the furnace is running, can you hear the furnace? I think we just solved your problem!

polk500

I was on same train of thought as @mrbiron double oops.

mrbiron

Can you also post pictures of the time you leave in the morning and maybe some returning home pictures. Also, a shot of your hidden key would be helpful so that we can solved this damn furnace problem..........together!

Do you have a picture of the contents in your fridge? I'd hate to rob fix this problem on an empty tummy.

EndersShadow

mrbiron wrote: »

Oh....i thought your utility closet was in the corner of your loft by the window. Oops!

There isn't much you can do with the return unless like T-bone mentioned, getting it moved but my assumptions are your options were limited to that location. Looks like the bathroom is on the back side.

You can put duct tape (no duck tape) on the sheetmetal joints. That won't hurt anything.

So what about using these in conjunction with each other... I also swear there was some sort of putty/glue you would put on around the joints with a brush then use the stuff below as well....

mrbiron wrote: »

The two access doors on the front of the furnace are the access points and might already have insulation on the backside of the panel. I don't think deadening will do anything for you there.

I meant adding Dynamat to the solid core doors I was going to add, that and adding it INSIDE the return vent (cant really get to the outer part as its basically right up against the wall).

In regards to closing it off... thats it gents, the only return in the house, so not an option, and @mrbiron you hit it right on the head, the bathroom is directly behind it so its stuck where it is.

mrbiron wrote: »

Can you also post pictures of the time you leave in the morning and maybe some returning home pictures. Also, a shot of your hidden key would be helpful so that we can solved this damn furnace problem..........together!

Do you have a picture of the contents in your fridge? I'd hate to rob fix this problem on an empty tummy.

My wife and I leave at 7:15, after putting anything way the dogs can get into, arming the alarm(s) and ensuring the security camera's are active and streaming

My fridge is filled with apple sauce and pudding cups with a bottle or two of vodka so you'd be RIGHT at home. Maybe some Go-gurt too.....

The rest of the "good" stuff would be in the freezer in the garage...