Warm up time?

I am using all of my amps less and less. I have I guess 7 channels on amps, the AVR is only driving the presence speakers. I have everything except for the P5 on triggers. But mostly I am running 2 channel through the A31. I should probably stop firing everything up all at once huh?

Comments

  • MrBuhl
    MrBuhl Posts: 2,419
    I like to do a good hour warm up, though I do think SQ improves with a longer period so on weekends I basically flip em on and leave em on...
    VA HT HK AVR20II, Sony S9000ES CD/DVD/SACD, Polk Audio RC80i / Polk Audio CSi3, 60" Panasonic Plasma, Nordost / Signal Cable A2 / Wireworld / Pangea / Magic Power
    VA 2 Channel Focal Electra 926 speakers, Pass Labs X150.5 Amp, Eastern Electric MiniMax Preamp (Tutay mods), Eastern Electric Minimax CDP (Scott Nixon mods), Music Hall mmf 5.1 Turntable, Parks Audio Budgie Phono Pre , Audioengine B1 streamer, MIT S3 IC's / MIT Shotgun S3 Speaker Cables / PS Audio power cables
    Noggin Schiit Valhalla, Pangea, Phillips Fidelio X1, Polk UF8000

    Polk SDA1c modded
    Polk CRS+ 4.1TL modded (need veneer)
    Polk SDA2BTL (fully modded)
    A/L 1000VA Dreadnought Canare 4s11 SDA cable
    SACD Marantz DV8300
    Sony S9000ES CD/DVD/SACD
    Yamaha YP-D6
    Soundcraftsmen PCR800
    Audible Illusions L1 Preamp
    Vincent MFA based Cocci Tube Preamp
    Pho-700 Phono Pre
    Signal Cable Silver Resolution IC's






  • Speedskater
    Speedskater Posts: 495
    Seems like we have two questions here:
    1] Turn-on. If big power amps are on the same AC circuit, then turning them one one at a time can bee a good can be a good idea. Just a few seconds in between.
    2] Warm-up. With modern equipment, warm-up should only be a minute or two.
  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,221
    edited March 2016
    2] Warm-up. With modern equipment, warm-up should only be a minute or two.

    Wrong answer in many cases. Many good amps are biased to run a certain amount of class A (exceptions of course). It can take anywhere from 10-60 minutes or longer for an amp to fully come into the best listening scenario. (exception being class D or H amps)

    Many high end designers recommend leaving (solid state) gear powered up for best listening results. Obviously if you know you won't be listening for an extended period of time one might want to consider powering off to save $$$.

    Tube amps are for another discussion

    My single ended Class A amp takes about 30-60 minutes to get going and the longer it's left on the better it sounds to a point. After about 6 hours it's hit it's mark.

    H9

    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
  • JPete
    JPete Posts: 295
    I can hear my Adcom getting into the zone after 45 minutes, give or take, from a cold start. Wish I trusted it enough to leave it on when I'm not around so I didn't have to wait, but at 31 years old, I'd rather not... Just in case.
    Lexicon RT-10, Parasound P5, McCormack DNA 0.5, Polk SDA CRS+, SVS Sub
    Schiit Modi, Luminous Audio Axiom II, McCormack DNA-1, Digital Phase AP 2
    Marantz AV7701, Emotiva XPA-5, Paradigm 11se Mkii, DCM Time Windows, NHT 2C, SVS Sub

    Spares - Kenwood C1 Pre, NAD 2200PE, Polk Monitor 10B, Polk Model 11, other odds and ends
  • mikeyb128
    mikeyb128 Posts: 2,885
    My Cary takes at least an hour of warm up, you can hear the soundstage start to widen and open up. The manual recommends leaving it on 24/7 for best results. I leave everything on at idle for at least an hour before I listen. I shut everything off because I don't get much of a chance during the week to listen as long as I would like.
    2 channel:
    Bryston 4B3, Bryston BDA3, Cary SLP05, Shanling CDT1000SE with parts conneXion level 2 mods, Nottingham analogue ace space 294, soundsmith Carmen MKii, Zu DL103 MKii, Ortofon MC 20 MKii, Dynavector XX2 MKii, Rogue Audio Ares, Core power technologies balanced power conditioner, Akiko Corelli power conditioner with Akiko Audio HQ power cable, Nordost heimdall 2, Frey 2, interconnects, speaker and power cables, Focal Electra 1028 BE 2, Auralic Aries Femto, Black diamond racing cones, ingress audio level 1 roller blocks, JL Audio E110 with Auralic subdude, Primacoustics room treatments.
    Theater:
    Focal Aria 926,905,CC900, SVS PB ultra x2. Pioneer Elite SC85, Oppo BDP93, Panamax M5400PM, Minix neox6, Nordost Blue heaven LS power cables.

  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,221
    I got a little irritated with my rig last week because I powered everything up and sat down a was "WTF, why does this sound so closed in and lacking dynamics"

    Duh, it always starts sounding better after about an hour warm up. Two hours and it's sublime

    H9
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
  • mikeyb128
    mikeyb128 Posts: 2,885
    heiney9 wrote: »
    I got a little irritated with my rig last week because I powered everything up and sat down a was "WTF, why does this sound so closed in and lacking dynamics"

    Duh, it always starts sounding better after about an hour warm up. Two hours and it's sublime

    H9

    Same thing happened to me on Sunday, I thought I had everything dialed in tube wise. But after relaxing for a bit latter getting mad, things opened right up.

    And I agree, the 2 hour mark magic starts to happen. Seems as though music has to be playing, sitting idle doesn't seem to help us much as I thought.
    2 channel:
    Bryston 4B3, Bryston BDA3, Cary SLP05, Shanling CDT1000SE with parts conneXion level 2 mods, Nottingham analogue ace space 294, soundsmith Carmen MKii, Zu DL103 MKii, Ortofon MC 20 MKii, Dynavector XX2 MKii, Rogue Audio Ares, Core power technologies balanced power conditioner, Akiko Corelli power conditioner with Akiko Audio HQ power cable, Nordost heimdall 2, Frey 2, interconnects, speaker and power cables, Focal Electra 1028 BE 2, Auralic Aries Femto, Black diamond racing cones, ingress audio level 1 roller blocks, JL Audio E110 with Auralic subdude, Primacoustics room treatments.
    Theater:
    Focal Aria 926,905,CC900, SVS PB ultra x2. Pioneer Elite SC85, Oppo BDP93, Panamax M5400PM, Minix neox6, Nordost Blue heaven LS power cables.

  • notified
    notified Posts: 175
    edited March 2016
    I get the same results as Mikeyb with my vintage Bryston 4b. From a cold start it takes about a hour of current drawing [listing time] for the large transformer to warm up and allow the electrons to move freely enough to allow the ghost into the machine.Otherwise it just sounds like a decent quality amp,but after the warm up it really starts to show its price point worth! [they also recommend leaving it on 24/7 but with it being out of the 20 warranty period and the long times between sessions I prefer to power it down]
  • afterburnt
    afterburnt Posts: 7,892
    I was thinking to set the amp to auto so they turn on when the see a signal (I think they all will do that). I guess that would be fine for movies like Skip said but if I want to listen to multi channel music I would want them warmed up first. Damn I am lazy, I dont want to push 5 buttons!
  • Jhayman
    Jhayman Posts: 1,548
    I leave my McCormack DNA-500 powered on 24/7 on Steve's advice..
    Since adding a Bryston BDP-2 and Bryston BDA-2 my gear is at an unreached Pleasuredome to which my ears melt, it's kind of like cleaning your ears with Velvet q-tips..feels so nice..
    ATC SCM40's,VTL TL 2.5 Preamp,PSB Stratus Goldi's,McCormack DNA 500,McCormack MAP-1 Preamp,Pro-Ject Xtension 10 TT,Ortofon Cadenza Red/Nordost RedDawn LS Speaker cables, Bryston BDP-2, Bryston BDA-2,PS Audio AC-3 power cables
  • mikeyb128
    mikeyb128 Posts: 2,885
    Jhayman wrote: »
    I leave my McCormack DNA-500 powered on 24/7 on Steve's advice..
    Since adding a Bryston BDP-2 and Bryston BDA-2 my gear is at an unreached Pleasuredome to which my ears melt, it's kind of like cleaning your ears with Velvet q-tips..feels so nice..

    Why does it make me nervous leaving my amps on 24/7?

    The next amp on my radar is a McCormack.
    2 channel:
    Bryston 4B3, Bryston BDA3, Cary SLP05, Shanling CDT1000SE with parts conneXion level 2 mods, Nottingham analogue ace space 294, soundsmith Carmen MKii, Zu DL103 MKii, Ortofon MC 20 MKii, Dynavector XX2 MKii, Rogue Audio Ares, Core power technologies balanced power conditioner, Akiko Corelli power conditioner with Akiko Audio HQ power cable, Nordost heimdall 2, Frey 2, interconnects, speaker and power cables, Focal Electra 1028 BE 2, Auralic Aries Femto, Black diamond racing cones, ingress audio level 1 roller blocks, JL Audio E110 with Auralic subdude, Primacoustics room treatments.
    Theater:
    Focal Aria 926,905,CC900, SVS PB ultra x2. Pioneer Elite SC85, Oppo BDP93, Panamax M5400PM, Minix neox6, Nordost Blue heaven LS power cables.

  • tonyb
    tonyb Posts: 33,030
    mikeyb128 wrote: »
    My Cary takes at least an hour of warm up, you can hear the soundstage start to widen and open up. The manual recommends leaving it on 24/7 for best results. I leave everything on at idle for at least an hour before I listen. I shut everything off because I don't get much of a chance during the week to listen as long as I would like.


    Well heck man, send it to me Monday-Friday. lol
    HT SYSTEM-
    Sony 850c 4k
    Pioneer elite vhx 21
    Sony 4k BRP
    SVS SB-2000
    Polk Sig. 20's
    Polk FX500 surrounds

    Cables-
    Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
    Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
    Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
    Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable

    Kitchen

    Sonos zp90
    Grant Fidelity tube dac
    B&k 1420
    lsi 9's
  • erniejade
    erniejade Posts: 6,321
    My Joule in standby mode keeps the tubes warm but just at a lesser voltage. Within 5-10 min, it sounds good after turning it fully on but, around that 20 min mark is where I hear a little more out of it.. slight but noticeable.
    Klipsch The Nines, Audioquest Thunderbird Interconnect, Innuos Zen MK3 W4S recovery, Revolution Audio Labs USB & Ethernet, Border Patrol SE-I, Audioquest Niagara 5000 & Thunder, Cullen Crossover II PC's.
  • 11tsteve
    11tsteve Posts: 1,166
    edited March 2016
    Jhayman wrote: »
    I leave my McCormack DNA-500 powered on 24/7 on Steve's advice..
    Since adding a Bryston BDP-2 and Bryston BDA-2 my gear is at an unreached Pleasuredome to which my ears melt, it's kind of like cleaning your ears with Velvet q-tips..feels so nice..
    mikeyb128 wrote: »

    Why does it make me nervous leaving my amps on 24/7?

    The next amp on my radar is a McCormack.

    my DNA 0.5 was on for 5 months straight, barring nasty weather or extended absences... and the first thing I did when I got home was turn it back on.
    I also had to fight a certain OCD aspect of leaving it on 24/7. But think of all of the devices in your home which are never truly powered down.... and then consider a well constructed, fused amplifier.
    With the upgrades, the bias on the DNA 0.5 was actually reduced, running cooler and drawing less idle current. I was told it should draw less than a 60W bulb at idle.
    I love this planet, but I can live with that for full time audio bliss.
    Polk Lsi9
    N.E.W. A-20 class A 20W
    NAD 1020 completely refurbished
    Keces DA-131 mk.II
    Analysis Plus Copper Oval, Douglass, Morrow SUB3, Huffman Digital
    Paradigm DSP-3100 v.2
  • 11tsteve
    11tsteve Posts: 1,166
    edited March 2016
    deleted
    Polk Lsi9
    N.E.W. A-20 class A 20W
    NAD 1020 completely refurbished
    Keces DA-131 mk.II
    Analysis Plus Copper Oval, Douglass, Morrow SUB3, Huffman Digital
    Paradigm DSP-3100 v.2
  • mikeyb128
    mikeyb128 Posts: 2,885
    tonyb wrote: »
    mikeyb128 wrote: »
    My Cary takes at least an hour of warm up, you can hear the soundstage start to widen and open up. The manual recommends leaving it on 24/7 for best results. I leave everything on at idle for at least an hour before I listen. I shut everything off because I don't get much of a chance during the week to listen as long as I would like.


    Well heck man, send it to me Monday-Friday. lol

    Aw man, I've been slammed with work while half this province gets laid off with the cr appy economy. I need me some money for audio upgrades!
    2 channel:
    Bryston 4B3, Bryston BDA3, Cary SLP05, Shanling CDT1000SE with parts conneXion level 2 mods, Nottingham analogue ace space 294, soundsmith Carmen MKii, Zu DL103 MKii, Ortofon MC 20 MKii, Dynavector XX2 MKii, Rogue Audio Ares, Core power technologies balanced power conditioner, Akiko Corelli power conditioner with Akiko Audio HQ power cable, Nordost heimdall 2, Frey 2, interconnects, speaker and power cables, Focal Electra 1028 BE 2, Auralic Aries Femto, Black diamond racing cones, ingress audio level 1 roller blocks, JL Audio E110 with Auralic subdude, Primacoustics room treatments.
    Theater:
    Focal Aria 926,905,CC900, SVS PB ultra x2. Pioneer Elite SC85, Oppo BDP93, Panamax M5400PM, Minix neox6, Nordost Blue heaven LS power cables.

  • afterburnt
    afterburnt Posts: 7,892
    Do yooz warm of every piece or just amps?
  • kevhed72
    kevhed72 Posts: 5,079
    I think for HT save the energy....the more important thing is proper heat ventilation of the gear....IMO. I have one of those low voltage mini fans built into my stand which constantly blows the hot air off the top of the AVR/amp.