Is my factory audio wiring gauge good enough? 2.7 Ohms 100w RMS

MMPolker
MMPolker Posts: 17
in Car Audio & Electronics
Subaru Outback H6 VDC

Is the audio wire gauge good enough for 2.7 Ohm speakers? May be installing 75w or 100w rms amp at 2 ohms.
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Answers

  • deucekazoo
    deucekazoo Posts: 146
    Let me guess, you just picked up some MM6501s?
    Which is funny because I just ordered those yesterday for a new project when it gets warm enough outside.
    I am guessing the stock wiring is 18 awg and that wire should be good for 16 amps. So if you are going to run it off the stock head unit you should be fine. If you are going to add an amp I would also upgrade the wires a little bigger. At 100 watts at 12v you are pushing 8.3 amps. But at normal listening levels you will not be using 100 watts.
    Polk S10, S8, S4
    Polk RT8
    Polk Monitor 7s
    Working on getting SDAs
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  • MMPolker
    MMPolker Posts: 17
    nbrowser wrote: »
    MMPolker wrote: »
    Subaru Outback H6 VDC

    Is the audio wire gauge good enough for 2.7 Ohm speakers? May be installing 75w or 100w rms amp at 2 ohms.

    You'll be fine, the amp won't be pushing anywhere close to it's max output 99.999999% of the time. Just install the stuff and wheel on.

    Wrong sir. I re-wired my system with 16 gauge speaker wire (clear type) from Radioshack for $16.00.

    It sounds 50% better than before or more.

    50 foot spool, used 12 feet per strand and it got me from all 4 doors to under my passenger seat.

    To all those nay-sayers of the proper gauge, go eat a sock. I was driving 138w RMS @ 2 ohms through a small **** old factory speaker wire that was probably 20 gauge and 18-20 gauge can only handle 6-10 ohms.

    It is definitely worth your time and energy to JUST DO IT.

    Less ohms, less resistance (ohms), more power.

    *claps*

    I have a bigger problem on my hands; 3 more doors to go, the power window assembly 1/2 sprocket thing is causing major vibrations. Anyone who tells you to use Dynomat, stay far away. Use only FELT with adhesive, Michaels sells it for $1 per 1' square. Wrap the wires, coat the touchings, lower the trebble and test, felt the door handle/lock assembly and rods meeting up to the assembly plus where both rods X each other, tighten your nuts,
    and lastly bend out that sprocket a little and the sound goes away.

    Don't use Dynamat, caulk all crevaces of the plastic door panel where the factory heat-buttoned it all up, all gaps, then use sound fabric. Crazy about dynamat? Go to Home Depot, roofing section. Dynamat 80% off fire sale. Aluminum Tar Paper.

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