Dougs cables

Geoff4rfc
Geoff4rfc Posts: 2,463
I've posted homemade speaker cables here before. After some discussion with Doug with Douglasconnection, I decided to try my hand at some analog interconnects. Well, they work :smile: and they work quite well, I'm pretty happy with them.
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Source: BRP Panasonic UB9000, CDP Emotiva ERC3 - Display: LG OLED EVO 83 C3 - Pre/Pro: Marantz 8802A - Amplification: Emotiva XPA-DR3, XPA-2 x 2, XPA-6, Speakers, Mains/2ch-Focal Kanta No2's, C-LSiM706, S-702F/X, RS-RTiA9's, WS-RTiA9's, FH-RTiA3's, Subs - Epik Empire x 2

Cables: AudioQuest McKenzie XLR's/CDP/Amp, Carbon 48/BRP, Forest 48/Display, 2 channel speaker cable: Furutech FS Alpha 36 12AWG PCOCC Single Crystal (Douglas Connection)

EXPERIENCE: next to nothing, but I sure enjoy audio and video MY OPINION OF THIS HOBBY: I may not be a smart man, but I know what quicksand is.
When I was young, I was Superman but now that old age has gotten the best of me I'm only Batman

Comments

  • msg
    msg Posts: 10,221
    Agree, nice job Geoff!
    I like those Furez connectors.
    I disabled signatures.
  • Looks good @Geoff4rfc
    Keen to see how the cable management looks after
  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,596
    @helipilotdoug

    Love Dougs Stuff!
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • Nice Job Geoff! :) Look'n good! :)
    Sunfire Theater Grand IV
    Sunfire Cinema Grand Signature
    SRS 2.1TL
    SDA 2BTL's
    CSiA6
    FXiA4
    FXiA6
    SDA 2A's
    Monitor 10A's

    http://www.douglasconnection.com
  • ken brydson
    ken brydson Posts: 8,779
    Nice work bro...
  • indyhawg
    indyhawg Posts: 1,646
    Very nice work.
  • Geoff4rfc
    Geoff4rfc Posts: 2,463
    Nice Job Geoff! :) Look'n good! :)

    I appreciate all of your help and guidance Doug. From now on, I'll always make my own speaker and interconnect cables.

    Source: BRP Panasonic UB9000, CDP Emotiva ERC3 - Display: LG OLED EVO 83 C3 - Pre/Pro: Marantz 8802A - Amplification: Emotiva XPA-DR3, XPA-2 x 2, XPA-6, Speakers, Mains/2ch-Focal Kanta No2's, C-LSiM706, S-702F/X, RS-RTiA9's, WS-RTiA9's, FH-RTiA3's, Subs - Epik Empire x 2

    Cables: AudioQuest McKenzie XLR's/CDP/Amp, Carbon 48/BRP, Forest 48/Display, 2 channel speaker cable: Furutech FS Alpha 36 12AWG PCOCC Single Crystal (Douglas Connection)

    EXPERIENCE: next to nothing, but I sure enjoy audio and video MY OPINION OF THIS HOBBY: I may not be a smart man, but I know what quicksand is.
    When I was young, I was Superman but now that old age has gotten the best of me I'm only Batman
  • Jhayman
    Jhayman Posts: 1,548
    They look Great.. :)
    ATC SCM40's,VTL TL 2.5 Preamp,PSB Stratus Goldi's,McCormack DNA 500,McCormack MAP-1 Preamp,Pro-Ject Xtension 10 TT,Ortofon Cadenza Red/Nordost RedDawn LS Speaker cables, Bryston BDP-2, Bryston BDA-2,PS Audio AC-3 power cables
  • polk500
    polk500 Posts: 1,171
    Looks real good I might have to do the same, my speaker cables were all supply by Doug and it would certainly make for better cable management if all the IC weren't the standard 6 footers.

    How difficult were they to make?

    Cheers
  • Geoff4rfc
    Geoff4rfc Posts: 2,463
    polk500 wrote: »
    Looks real good I might have to do the same, my speaker cables were all supply by Doug and it would certainly make for better cable management if all the IC weren't the standard 6 footers.

    How difficult were they to make?

    Cheers

    I've never soldered before, so I watched as much youtube tutorials as I could, then I practiced by tinning wires, then soldering wires into banana plugs.

    The first of four cables was an eye opener, but, as with most things, the more you practice, the better (hopefully) you get.

    I was pretty careful on the first cable, but as I moved on through the next three, I started to develop better technique. I suspect it would be the same for anyone.

    The level of difficulty starts to fade pretty quick. I recommend using "helping hands", I use two sets. If you're not familiar with these, it's moveable gator clips on a stand to hold your stuff while you solder.

    The clips can be brutal on a wire, so I cut small sections of 1/4" wide rubber bands, and attached them to the clips with heat shrink. This took the "bite" out of the clips yet they were still useful.

    Having the right tools will make any job easier and more efficient. I use an Xtronic 8010 soldering station to work with solder that was 96% tin and 4% silver. Lead has a lower melting point, so you have to find the right temp to flow the 96/4 while not keeping the heat on your parts for very long.

    I really enjoyed this four cable project and I'm looking forward to completing my set up, which will consist of at least five more IC's for the HT channels. This project was specifically for a 2ch set up which is why I went with as much silver as possible and still keeping a 2nd mortgage at bay; silver connectors, silver solder and copper conductors. The conductors however, being copper, are double shielded which you should be able to tell from the pics.

    I hope this long winded explanation helped with your question. I say......DO IT!!!!

    Source: BRP Panasonic UB9000, CDP Emotiva ERC3 - Display: LG OLED EVO 83 C3 - Pre/Pro: Marantz 8802A - Amplification: Emotiva XPA-DR3, XPA-2 x 2, XPA-6, Speakers, Mains/2ch-Focal Kanta No2's, C-LSiM706, S-702F/X, RS-RTiA9's, WS-RTiA9's, FH-RTiA3's, Subs - Epik Empire x 2

    Cables: AudioQuest McKenzie XLR's/CDP/Amp, Carbon 48/BRP, Forest 48/Display, 2 channel speaker cable: Furutech FS Alpha 36 12AWG PCOCC Single Crystal (Douglas Connection)

    EXPERIENCE: next to nothing, but I sure enjoy audio and video MY OPINION OF THIS HOBBY: I may not be a smart man, but I know what quicksand is.
    When I was young, I was Superman but now that old age has gotten the best of me I'm only Batman
  • Willow
    Willow Posts: 11,055
    Not too long at all. I've been in talks with Doug too. After reading this maybe I'll give it a try. Might be a good little project.
  • polk500
    polk500 Posts: 1,171
    Hey Geoff, It wasn't long winded and it gave me a very good idea of what to expect.
    I didn't realize soldering was required but it makes sense as I had to do some soldering for my speaker wires while I'm ok at it I'm certainly not great.

    So with that being said I think I will have to give it a try.
    Thanks for taking the time to explain what's involved.

    Cheers
  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,596
    polk500 wrote: »
    Hey Geoff, It wasn't long winded and it gave me a very good idea of what to expect.
    I didn't realize soldering was required but it makes sense as I had to do some soldering for my speaker wires while I'm ok at it I'm certainly not great.

    So with that being said I think I will have to give it a try.
    Thanks for taking the time to explain what's involved.

    Cheers

    For speaker cables they use those screws to make a connection but for RCA's they do require you to solder just a bit.

    I'm not brave enough to do that just yet (might be more laziness than lack of courage), but I keep thinking I should give it a go sometime.

    Would sure make cable management easier if I could custom size my cables for my rack, thats for sure....
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • msg
    msg Posts: 10,221
    ..but for RCA's they do require you to solder just a bit.

    I'm not brave enough to do that just yet (might be more laziness than lack of courage), but I keep thinking I should give it a go sometime.

    Would sure make cable management easier if I could custom size my cables for my rack, thats for sure....
    Yeah, Dan - I get where you're coming from. Having done some of these myself, I'll say, it can be quite the operation to get all your stuff out and ready. In my humble and limited experience so far, it does make quite a mess, so I have to be in the mood as well, or be willing to get my stuff out in a place where I can leave it laid out for a while, days even. I'm still pretty slow at building, so it can take hours for me to get a set of IC's or SC's done with all the bells and whistles and heatshrink and such. It's a lot of measuring and re-measuring and being sure, and taking one's time. This, I think, is one of the reasons that Doug's Custom Sets cost more than his DIY kits. That and the expertise you're getting. Well worth the expense; there's a lot that goes into making a set of cables that many probably don't realize just looking at the finished product.

    It *is* a tremendously rewarding experience though - absolutely worth the time and effort.
    I disabled signatures.
  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,596
    Oh Doug's custom made stuff is well worth the cost. No doubt at all. I'm familiar with the heatshrink and stuff he uses and its super time consuming to do it right....

    I'd just like to be able to remake cables at will if my setup changes and do it right then and there (if I'm not feeling lazy hehehe)....
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • Geoff4rfc
    Geoff4rfc Posts: 2,463
    Thanks for the kind words guys! Danny, c'mon man, you've been working with solder for a long time, time to jump in the water!

    As far as a set up, I have one of those plastic collapsible "picnic" style tables and I can put all of my crap on. Due to current space constraints, I use our living room and off to the side (WAF). I got my four cables done in a weekend so my wife wasn't too worried about my stuff being out in the open for too long.

    I have storage boxes and zip-lock bags that I keep my stuff in, so clean up is pretty quick and easy.

    With this being my first IC project and first time soldering, Doug was very instrumental in my effort. Doug emailed diagrams and explanations and even invited me to give a call if I needed to.......I'm like "Dude, just come over and OJI me" LOL. Actually, I did end up asking a couple of questions which Doug readily supplied me with answers and antidotes and I was on my way.

    Like Scott said, the reward is big!
    Source: BRP Panasonic UB9000, CDP Emotiva ERC3 - Display: LG OLED EVO 83 C3 - Pre/Pro: Marantz 8802A - Amplification: Emotiva XPA-DR3, XPA-2 x 2, XPA-6, Speakers, Mains/2ch-Focal Kanta No2's, C-LSiM706, S-702F/X, RS-RTiA9's, WS-RTiA9's, FH-RTiA3's, Subs - Epik Empire x 2

    Cables: AudioQuest McKenzie XLR's/CDP/Amp, Carbon 48/BRP, Forest 48/Display, 2 channel speaker cable: Furutech FS Alpha 36 12AWG PCOCC Single Crystal (Douglas Connection)

    EXPERIENCE: next to nothing, but I sure enjoy audio and video MY OPINION OF THIS HOBBY: I may not be a smart man, but I know what quicksand is.
    When I was young, I was Superman but now that old age has gotten the best of me I'm only Batman
  • I'm in the process of putting DIY cable kits on our website, and making videos on how to make them. In the past we have done kits when someone asked, but soon they will be available on our website. Nothing on the website yet, but look for it soon. The videos will be hosted on youtube. I'll post a thread on this when we get more done. In the meantime, PM me if you need a DIY kit. Thanks :)
    Sunfire Theater Grand IV
    Sunfire Cinema Grand Signature
    SRS 2.1TL
    SDA 2BTL's
    CSiA6
    FXiA4
    FXiA6
    SDA 2A's
    Monitor 10A's

    http://www.douglasconnection.com
  • skrol
    skrol Posts: 3,387
    There seem to be two schools of thought on the shield connection. Some connect the shield and return at both ends, while others only connect the shield at the source end and leave it open at the amp end. I have some of the same cable used here and have been planning to make some interconnects but haven't decided how I want to go with the shield.

    By the way, very nice job!

    Stan
    Stan

    Main 2ch:
    Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

    HT:
    Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
    Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601
  • Geoff4rfc
    Geoff4rfc Posts: 2,463
    I'm in the process of putting DIY cable kits on our website, and making videos on how to make them. In the past we have done kits when someone asked, but soon they will be available on our website. Nothing on the website yet, but look for it soon. The videos will be hosted on youtube. I'll post a thread on this when we get more done. In the meantime, PM me if you need a DIY kit. Thanks :)

    Excellent, I will be on the look out for sure. Not right away, but hopefully, by the time you get them posted! I only posted pics of the source, I've got some of the amp as well!

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    Source: BRP Panasonic UB9000, CDP Emotiva ERC3 - Display: LG OLED EVO 83 C3 - Pre/Pro: Marantz 8802A - Amplification: Emotiva XPA-DR3, XPA-2 x 2, XPA-6, Speakers, Mains/2ch-Focal Kanta No2's, C-LSiM706, S-702F/X, RS-RTiA9's, WS-RTiA9's, FH-RTiA3's, Subs - Epik Empire x 2

    Cables: AudioQuest McKenzie XLR's/CDP/Amp, Carbon 48/BRP, Forest 48/Display, 2 channel speaker cable: Furutech FS Alpha 36 12AWG PCOCC Single Crystal (Douglas Connection)

    EXPERIENCE: next to nothing, but I sure enjoy audio and video MY OPINION OF THIS HOBBY: I may not be a smart man, but I know what quicksand is.
    When I was young, I was Superman but now that old age has gotten the best of me I'm only Batman
  • skrol wrote: »
    There seem to be two schools of thought on the shield connection. Some connect the shield and return at both ends, while others only connect the shield at the source end and leave it open at the amp end. I have some of the same cable used here and have been planning to make some interconnects but haven't decided how I want to go with the shield.

    By the way, very nice job!

    Stan

    Stan, you are correct. There are those of us who say the shield should only be attached to one end when making single ended (RCA) interconnect cables. Then there are those who say connecting the shield only to one end will cause the shield to become an antenna, and pick up RFI. The problem I see with this theory, when using RCA connectors, is if you attach the shield at both ends, the shield is then in the signal path, along with the negative conductor. Now any RFI and/or EMI interference the shield picks up are in the signal path and will be transmitted along with the signal. If the shield is only connected to one end on RCA interconnects, any interference picked up is going to ground on one end, and does not affect the signal. Another problem I see with having the shield attached on both ends is the negative conductor is now WAY different from the positive conductor. I feel both conductors should be the same.

    When making balanced interconnects, the shield is connected to both ends. With balanced interconnects, the shield is separate, and not combined with the negative conductor.

    Here is a quote I found on Audiogon about the subject of the shield being connected to one end only on shielded twisted pair single ended cables.
    "In the old days ;~) single ended interconnects contained only one (center) conductor (+) and the shield carried the (-) signal, so it had to be connected at both ends. Then Bruce Brisson (owner of MIT cables) invented the "shotgun" single-ended interconnect while working for MonsterCable, which is what put MonsterCable on the map! It is called "shotgun" because it contains TWO signal conductors (double-barreled shotgun ;~) surrounded by a shield -- but since the shield no longer has to carry the audio signal, it can be 'grounded' at just one end, and can do its shielding job even more effectively.

    Mr. Brisson provided these shotgun cables with ARROWS, which point to the end of the cable where the shield is connected to ground (no, the arrows have NOTHING TO DO WITH SIGNAL FLOW!) He did this specifically so that all interconnects could be installed with the grounded end of their shields connected to the preamp (yes, EVEN THE ONES BETWEEN THE PREAMP AND THE AMP!) That is because such a configuration is what's called 'Star Grounding' -- with the preamp at the center of the 'star'."

    We make our twisted pair interconnects this way. We either mark the end with the shield attached with an arrow or with a green band. Many recommend using the end with the shield attached connected to the source. I definitely see how the above "star grounding" approach could work well. My recommendation is to try them both ways and see which sounds best to you. Just make sure both cables in the stereo pair are going in the same direction.
    Sunfire Theater Grand IV
    Sunfire Cinema Grand Signature
    SRS 2.1TL
    SDA 2BTL's
    CSiA6
    FXiA4
    FXiA6
    SDA 2A's
    Monitor 10A's

    http://www.douglasconnection.com
  • hochpt21
    hochpt21 Posts: 5,423
    I'm in the process of putting DIY cable kits on our website, and making videos on how to make them. In the past we have done kits when someone asked, but soon they will be available on our website. Nothing on the website yet, but look for it soon. The videos will be hosted on youtube. I'll post a thread on this when we get more done. In the meantime, PM me if you need a DIY kit. Thanks :)

    That is very exciting. I would be very interested for sure.
    2 ChannelTurntable - VPI Classic 2/Ortofon 2M BlueAmplification - Rogue Audio Cronus Magnum II, Parks Audio Budgie PhonoSpeakers - GoldenEar Triton 17.2 Home TheaterDenon AVR-X3300W; Rotel RMB-1066; Klipsch RP-280F's, Klipsch RP-450C, Polk FXi3's, Polk RC60i; Dual SVS PB 2000's; BenQ HT2050; Elite Screens 120"Man CaveTurntable - Pro-Ject 2.9 Wood/Grado GoldAmplification - Dared SL2000a, McCormack DNA 0.5 DeluxeCD: Cambridge AudioSpeakers - Wharfedale Linton 85th Anniversary; LSiM 703; SDA 2A
  • skrol
    skrol Posts: 3,387
    Thank you Doug. That is an excellent explanation above.
    Stan
    Stan

    Main 2ch:
    Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

    HT:
    Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
    Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601
  • msg
    msg Posts: 10,221
    Doug, as noted above, great explanation.
    So, regarding direction on MIT cables - is that all MIT cables, or just ones without network boxes (are there even any without? I've not seen, any, but my experience with MIT cables is very limited)

    Interesting on the note regarding putting the shielded ends at the preamp, regardless of signal direction. Am I understanding that correctly?
    I disabled signatures.