SDA SRS questions

oldrocker
oldrocker Posts: 2,590
in Vintage Speakers
As you can see from the picture, the badge on the speaker is in poor visual condition.

What is the best way to clean these?
What is the original color of the raised lettering supposed to be?

Has anyone ever repainted the raised lettering and what color(s) did you use?

FYI, I've never used any chemicals on these other than a dusting cloth but they look awful.

Thanks all...

ossi95ynnajg.jpg
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Comments

  • oldrocker
    oldrocker Posts: 2,590
    Dang it, horrible lighting and even worse camera...
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,551
    It's a matt (pun intended) black background with gold on the outer surface of the lettering.

    Yours need to be repainted. Krylon makes a good semi-flat black. As for the gold, I can tell you it wasn't painted on with a brush. It was either rolled on or pressed.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • stogie
    stogie Posts: 230
    For touch-ups I've used a product called "Painters" by Elmer's. The metallic gold matches up pretty good. With a steady hand you may be able to repaint the whole badge.
    88tzwt2lesvl.jpg

    here's a link

    http://www.amazon.com/Elmers-Painters-Opaque-Paint-Marker/dp/B000BRFDVI


    Speakers: Polk SDA-SRS xovers rebuilt by David, RDO194's, Dynamat, BH5, glued magnets, new cloth, custom aluminum terminal plates with Cardas posts and Speakon interconnect
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  • oldrocker
    oldrocker Posts: 2,590
    Thanks guys!!!
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,551
    stogie, I haven't seen that before. What is the final sheen?
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,551
    edited January 2016
    oldrocker, I've got more time to talk about this now. Years ago I had to restore the badge plates on a pair of RTA 15TL's, which were originally finished the same as yours. I wiped them down with mineral spirits using a toothbrush to get into the lettering to remove any crud. After letting them dry for a day or so I sprayed them with black semi-flat Krylon. This was the old lacquer based Krylon, very fast drying and curing. The new Krylon is different and while it still dries quickly the actual cure time is longer. Therefore, I'd wait at least a week before attempting the gold. Do not use Rust-oleum. I used gold leaf paint available at artist or craft stores. I tried various methods of applying the gold paint and IIRC, ended up using a foam brush by loading the angled tip, not too dry and not too wet, then slowly pulling and padding it across the lettering. This left the gold paint on top of the lettering without any running down. After a week or so I sprayed a light seal coat of clear satin Jet Spray lacquer over them. They came out extremely well.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • oldrocker
    oldrocker Posts: 2,590
    F1,

    Thanks for sharing the in-depth process you used.
    I practiced on some junk speakers grills with a small foam brush. It wasn't as bad as I expected. Controlling my hand from twitching was the worst part.

    Once again THANKS for the info...
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