Thorens TT TD 125 MK II & TD 160

oldrocker

Just looked at these two units. The 125 has an issue with setting the weight.

The 160 has an issue with the motor speed. The guy says he has to give it some manual help getting it to spin and then it is fine. He says he changed the belt.

Didn't actually see either unit run but will see them run this weekend and I should have some pics up then for your review.

If you had your choice of either units, which would it be?

Any info on these 2 units is GREATLY appreciated.

THANKS
David

SCompRacer

Most view the 125 as the better built table. The sub-chassis on the TD125 is cast instead of the stamped steel version of the TD160. Cast chassis provides better damping, and better damping is where you get the blacker background. High torque motors are great for keeping proper speed no matter what the stylus plows through, but if they are not smooth running, those vibes can eventually make their way to the tonearm. I deal with that on my Lenco idler drive. A high mass plinth is the best way to go.

The 160 has a two phase motor with the phase shift done by a small capacitor. The cap could be bad, like out of spec. There were motor mods that improved the phase shift to tame vibes that are transferred to the chassis and eventually arm. If one isn't careful, the motor shaft could be bent on the 160 by removing the platter.

The 125 is a great table. It has a circuit board to control the motor. Old caps should be replaced and it requires precise phase adjustment for motor to run properly and smoothly. What arm does the 125 have?

Origin Live has some DC motor upgrades you could look into as well. You could upgrade arms too, but you have to watch arm weight as it is a factor due to the suspension.

oldrocker

SC,

Thanks for the info.
Not sure on the 125 arm as this is new territory for me.
Will know more in a few days.

SCompRacer

You are most welcome, happy to help.

Common arm on the 125 was a SME 3009.

oldrocker

That looks like what is on the 125.

Sadly, the guys weekend schedule did not allow for me to get a few pics, hopes he has time next week.

The round cylinder/weight on the rear of that arm comes apart/slides
off "I think".
The guy who has this, can pull/slide the weight off of it and then says " he's not sure how to lock the weight back onto the arm????

I'll be asking more questions once I "hopefully" get some pictures on this thing.

Thanks...

SCompRacer

It's been a long time but IIRC it just slides on but it has to be in a certain clock position and you twist it on. To get manuals for turntable/arms, you can check at the manufacturers archived manuals site or head on over to vinyl engine.

http://www.vinylengine.com/

You have to join and be logged in to get downloads, but it's safer than downloading from strangers. They have a forum too.

Audiokarma forums is another good place for vintage table info.

When transporting or shipping turntables, it is best to remove the arm counterweight and twist tie the arm to the arm rest. Leaving the weight on and jarring the table can damage the tiny, sensitive arm bearings.

To check for arm bearing damage on a used table, there is the swing and bob test. If cartridge is installed, attach stylus guard or remove stylus. You need an empty headshell at least for weight on the cartridge end to get a neutral balance. Tape a nickel on as a last resort. Remove anti skate weight or adjust to zero on arms with bias knob. Set tone arm up for neutral balance. That is adjust balance weight until arm is hovering level.

Carefully push the arm down vertically without forcing it past its stop. Let it go. The arm should bob up and down smoothly and eventually stop. Then gently nudge the arm on a horizontal plane. The arm should swing back and forth smoothly. Any binding or jerking indicates a bearing issue.

oldrocker

I thought maybe it was a "twisting" action to put it back in place.

Man oh Man, Thanks for the info!!!!