RTi8 spike length?

trj

Long over due. I am building an outrigger setup for my RTi8s. Would anyone be kind enough to measure the length of spikes on the stock outriggers? Of course mine didn't come with outriggers when I bought them used.
This is just a salvage project, so not trying to spend a lot on those beautiful $100 per set spikes.

Here is what I have as of now: 1/8" aluminum bar cut to about 10 1/2"s. The middle holes are not tapped, just drilled to accept stock 1/4 20 threaded bolts so the bars can be screwed to the speakers. The holes at the ends are tapped to accept m6 threads.



I have m6 holes tapped on the aluminum bar that I am going to use as outrigger, and the maximum length I could find was 1 1/8" or 33mm at parts express.
These:

http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dss3-bc-black-chrome-speaker-spike-set-4-pcs--240-670

I thought to get 1" or 25mm spikes from here to save some pennies as it comes with top nut too.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/321946628196?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

or

http://www.ebay.com/itm/221882913921?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Would anyone measure the distance between the bottom most part of the polk audio faceplate and the end of the spike? or how far the tip of the spike protrudes below the bottom most plane of polk audio faceplate?
The length of "A" in the picture. Preferably not on the carpet Just want to know what length of spike should be proper without the speakers resting on the faceplate when on the spikes. As you can see currently they are resting on the books.




PS: This is just a fun project so, its not for good looks. After getting spikes (depends on color of the spikes) I will be sanding the edges of the bars a little more to round them and paint them either black or gun metal and clear coat it. Hopefully my books can then come out of exile.

F1nut

Judge the required spike height by where you need the tweeter to be so it is at your ear height when sitting in the sweet spot. Generally, that should be between 38" to 41".

trj

nbrowser wrote: »

pssst most spikes come threaded for 1/4X20...

That said the spikes that came with my A7s...I think they are about and inch or so high, will be upgraded soon though.

@nbrowser Thanks. I was looking for the stock gap length between the bottom of the faceplate and ground. As I don't have the stock outriggers, I really don't have any an idea if an inch long spike will keep the faceplate from touching the ground. I can always tap 1/4 x20 hole on the bar, that is the reason I stayed at M6. That will allow me to upsize the hole if required.

F1nut wrote: »

Judge the required spike height by where you need the tweeter to be so it is at your ear height when sitting in the sweet spot. Generally, that should be between 38" to 41".

@F1nut Currently the tweeter is measuring at around 37.5" from the carpet, but thats with the books at the bottom. The spikes will change it marginally. I am just trying to replicate the stock height.

I might just have to go hardware store and get various lengths of M6 bolts to try and see what length works this weekend.

This is just a trial. Trying to figure out what would be the best way.

F1nut

My point was that you don't need to replicate the stock height. You need to make it ear height, whatever that may be for you.

trj

F1nut wrote: »

My point was that you don't need to replicate the stock height. You need to make it ear height, whatever that may be for you.

I know F1nut, and the tweeters are at the listening height as of now. But what I am trying to do is to avoid resting the speakers on the polk audio faceplate that extends lower than the speaker bottom plane on RTi8s. As you can see in the picture, the front curved at bottom faceplate goes almost an inch below the flat bottom surface of the speaker. If I get too short of the spikes then the faceplate will touch the ground. I don't mind the faceplate just touching the carpet, but want to avoid resting the weight of the speakers on that faceplate.
1. It will be unstable as its a curved faceplate at the bottom and defeat the purpose of this retrofit.
2. Speakers will tilt upwards. Haha.

I understand with my retrofit the stock spike height measurement will not work as the outrigger I am making are thinner than stock plastic ones. Thats the reason I am looking for the stock gap between the lowest point of the faceplate and ground so I can choose the correct length spikes for my application.

I really appreciate the input on proper tweeter heights. I will definitely keep that in mind when finalizing this project.

pitdogg2

have you tried that metal without the books? May flex too much once weight of speaker is on it. I'd try it with a piece of wood where you will have the spike to be sure.

F1nut

pitdogg2 wrote: »

have you tried that metal without the books? May flex too much once weight of speaker is on it. I'd try it with a piece of wood where you will have the spike to be sure.

Excellent point.

trj

pitdogg2 wrote: »

have you tried that metal without the books? May flex too much once weight of speaker is on it. I'd try it with a piece of wood where you will have the spike to be sure.

Going to get some bolts from hardware store this weekend to try the same.

xcapri79 wrote: »

The length of "A" is 2 inches. I just measured it on my RTi8's to a tile floor.

Thanks.
Now, finding such long spikes, to have 2" gap from bottom of the faceplate to ground with my 1/8" thick aluminum bar will be a problem looks like. Will do some more brainstorming and see what can be done.

F1nut

http://www.adonacorporation.com/tweaks.html

Adjustable Brass Cones with Lock-nut

Solid Brass Black-chrome Extended Cones

trj

F1nut wrote: »

http://www.adonacorporation.com/tweaks.html

Adjustable Brass Cones with Lock-nut

Solid Brass Black-chrome Extended Cones

Those seem to fit the bill(a bit on expensive side). Thanks F1nut. I will see what length I will need with some nuts this weekend and decide on the what to buy.

pitdogg2

https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/tiptoes/feet/

http://www.oregondv.com/spikes.htm

F1nut

trj wrote: »

Those seem to fit the bill(a bit on expensive side). Thanks F1nut. I will see what length I will need with some nuts this weekend and decide on the what to buy.

The two I recommended are not expensive, but if you want cheaper look at their all steel Heavy Duty Toe Spikes at $9.00 a set. Pure junk, but you get what you pay for.

trj

Thank you everyone for chiming in. I think I have found good choices with all the links. Now just need to determine the length and order. Thanks again.