Connectors for Large Gauge Speaker Wire

DaveHo

I wanted to replace the bi-wire jumper bars on my newly acquired LSI7's with something better, so I set out to source parts to DIY some. My goal was to use quality materials which looked nice & didn't break the bank. I settled on using the conductors from Furez FZ102AS for the wire. Complete overkill, 10 awg, but hey, go big or go home. Now, where to find affordable connectors which can handle 10awg wire. After searching the net, I stumbled upon the following from RAM.

Bananas
ramelectronics.net/bfasg12rd.aspx
ramelectronics.net/bfasg12bk.aspx

Spades
ramelectronics.net/ds14568g.aspx

You'll notice the bananas say 12 awg max. Oops, I overlooked this when I ordered since I was more focused on finding an affordable BFA style banana. Well, guess what? The 10awg wire fit without issue & I had no problem getting the dual set screws in far enough to get the shell on! The quality of the plating is top notch.

The spades are a nice & thick and the plating is great on these too. They are also available with silver plating. The specs say up to 8 awg & the 10 awg fit easily. You'll need a good crimper for them. The wire ring is thick just like the blades. My Parts Express ratcheting crimper handled the job, but just barely.

I bought a sacrificial spade & banana & ground off the plating so I could investigate what's underneath. Both appear to be copper. The spades are spec'd to be copper and it would appear the bananas are as well.

I made two sets of jumpers with bananas & two with the spades. Treated the wire with De-oxit gold before assembly. They turned out great. Will post pics later.

EndersShadow

Hey Dave....

Did you see these?

http://www.needledoctor.com/Cardas-CLJPR-Silver-Bi-Wire-Jumper-Plate

http://www.audioadvisor.com/prodinfo.asp?number=CRCLJP

pitdogg2

Douglas Connection

msg

Good info, Dave.
What's the story on the use of Deoxit? Do you spray it on and leave it?

I've considered use of crimp-type connectors as well, but in my mind figured I'd also want to add solder. Not sure whether for the best connection it would be best to crimp first then solder, or tin first, crimp, the flow to fill gaps?

pitdogg2

deoxit put on wipe excess off, although when i use on cables going into bananas I don't worry much about it as long as it is not dripping off/out. I am one who really doesn't like to solder bananas or spades on it makes it so much easier to try new bananas or spades at the drop of a hat. Two yrs ago I went to silver on copper on all mine and really liked the change. I have tried the rhodium over silver and it can be very harsh, rhodium doesn't even make the top 20 in conductivity it is very hard and made for very harsh environments for that reason I stay away from it. I found no difference in crimp or screw type as long as both are the same material.

ymmv hope this helped

msg

I'd only solder crimped on connectors, not any screw-down type. To me, a crimp is essentially a permanent connection anyway, imho, and seems like solder would make it an even better connection. I've also had issues with crimp-on connectors coming loose. Solder helps address that, as well.

I like to have the freedom to change connectors, too, which is why I usually opt for screw-down type over crimps, but if I were doing something I knew to be permanent, I wouldn't have a problem with crimp type and solder.

good info on Rhodium. I've wondered about that. seems like overall Gold offers the best all around in terms of oxidation protection and signature, if you prefer smooth and fat over detail.

Dave, re: your sacrificial test - curious, what indication do you have that it's copper and not brass, like a lot of other connectors? I'm not sure I could tell the difference, so I'm curious.