Monitor 10 from Spain

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Hello I am new to the forum I write from distant Spain assisted by the translator of Google, forgive me for not speaking English.
I own several sets of Polk brand. Among them I have a monitor 10 from the year 89 to which they change the tweeter 2000 Sl by RD0194. see can be improved by changing the components of the Crossover. I could make a list of components to change.
Thank you.

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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,795
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    Welcome to Club Polk.

    If I understand you correctly, you would like a list of crossover components required to upgrade your Monitor 10B's.

    Capacitors per crossover:

    (2) 12uF (Sonicap is a good choice)
    (1) 34uF (Sonicap is a good choice)

    Resistors per crossover:

    (1) 2 ohm 5 watt (replace with 10 or 12 watt Mills)
    (1) 2.7 ohm 5 watt (replace with 10 or 12 watt Mills)

    You may want to remove the polyswitch in which case subsitute a .5 ohm 10 or 12 watt Mills resistor in place of it.


    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • hispania
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    F1nut thank you very much.
    I follow the forum for years, I envy the offers that you have in the United States.
    I would like to someday consegir a set SDA. but here in Spain it is difficult.
    Greetings and happy Christmas.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,795
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    You're welcome, hispania.

    I should have suggested that you remove one of the crossovers and inspect it for the values as Polk was known for changing things without notice.

    Merry Christmas to you and good luck with your hunt for SDA's.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • hispania
    hispania Posts: 7
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    Greetings to all from a distance.

    I have a problem with my Monitor10. At moderate high powers, you have begun to distort the Mw 6503 bass media speakers. You are a replacement or some loudspeaker compatible.
    Haze time disassemble, I do not think it will change the position of the cables, the connection to the speakers that I have now, black mark red dot +, white - is it correct?
    The e reviewed and I do not see anything that is detached so much cushioning as the internal suspension spider ?.

    Thank you.


    Saludos a todos desde la distancia.

    Tengo un problema con mi Monitor10. A potencias moderadas altas an empezado a distorsionar los altavozes de medios graves Mw 6503. Esiste remplazo o algun altavoz
    compatible.
    Haze tiempo los desmonte, no creo que cambiara la posicion de los cables , la conexion a los altavozes que tengo ahora , negro marca punto rojo+ , blanco - , ¿es correcto?
    Los e revisado y no veo nada que este despegado tanto amortiguacion cono, como la suspension interior ¿araña?.

    Gracias.



  • cortico
    cortico Posts: 587
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    Hey Hispania, I am from Lisboa, we were neighbors at some point in life. I am sure people here will help you troubleshooting your speakers.

    Do both speakers distort or just one?
    >If it happens on only one, swap the channel to determine if the problem is in the amp or not...


  • pglbook
    pglbook Posts: 2,168
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    Bienvenido, Hispania. Hablas bien el ingles pero si necesitas cualquier ayuda, mandame un mensaje privado. No hablo castellano sino mexicano, (mi esposa es de Mexico), pero nos podemos entender bien.

    Welcome to the Polk Forum, Hispania. Your English is fine but message me if you need any help translating as I speak Spanish (well, actually Mexican, lol, since my wife is from Mexico). There are a ton of great people with expertise in all things Polk and audio on this site so you are in great hands here.

    btw, it seems that accents do not work on this site.
  • hispania
    hispania Posts: 7
    edited May 2019
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    Hello again and thanks.

    I already made the change for other speakers and another amplifier and the result is the same.

    In a normal listening without raising the volume sound good, but if the recording has
    quite low is when they start to rattle. It is as if he were touching the braid with the cone.

    It may be that the suspensions for the time they have (year 1987) no longer have the original elasticity, so I asked for a replacement or equivalent.

    Another solution that I see is to add a subwoofer and cut the frequency cut so that the frequencies below 80-60 Hz are reproduced by the subwoofer.

    My English unfortunately is very limited, I am worth to write the google translator, so I apologize if the translation does not make sense.

    A greeting.


    Hola de nuevo y gracias.

    Ya hice el cambio por otros altavozes y otro amplificador y el resultado es el mismo.

    En una escucha normal sin subir el volumen suenan bien , pero si la gravacion tiene
    bastantes bajos es cuando empiezan a traquetear. es como si tocara la trencilla con el cono .

    Puede ser que las suspensiones por el tiempo que tienen ( año 1987 ) ya no tengan la elasticidad original , por eso preguntaba de algun remplazo o equivalente.

    Otra soluccion que veo es de añadir un subwoofer y hazer el corte de frecuencia para que las fecuencias por debajo de 80-60 Hz. las reproduzca el subwoofer.

    Mi Ingles por desgracia es muy limitado , me valgo para escrivir del traductor de google, por lo que disculparme si la traduccion no tiene sentido.

    Un saludo.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,795
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    I suspect that the spider has failed. The spider is attached to the cone at the rear just before the magnet assembly. You'll have to remove the driver to inspect that area. If they are detached you may be able to glue them back together with something like Aleen's Tacky Glue.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • HzTweaker
    HzTweaker Posts: 725
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    @hispania sorry to hear about your Monitor10s. I hope you're able to fix them, they are great speakers.

    Just out of curiosity: Did you ever get around to updating the crossovers??
    2ch rig:Speakers: LSi9s with VR3's Fortress modsPreamplifier: Parasound P5Amplifier: Parasound A23CDP: Pioneer DV-563ACables: Wireworld Equinox 7 XLR ICs, Wireworld Ultraviolet 7 USB, AudioQuest Q2s, AudioQuest NRG X(preamp)
  • hispania
    hispania Posts: 7
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    Hello, F1nut.

    Now disassemble and review them with a magnifying glass and all ok. Last year I repaired the spiders of my central channel Cs350 following the tutorial of the gazy companion and they were as good as new.

    Hello HzTweaker. Due to laziness and lack of time do not modify the crossover, I have it pending tasks. I will first have to search and buy the components.

    If the monitors10 sound very good, I have been able to enjoy pleasant and long listening during these years.

    Very grateful to answer.



    Hola F1nut.

    Ya los desmonte y los revise con lupa y todo ok. El año pasado ya repare las arañas de mi canal central Cs350 siguiendo el tutorial del compañero gazy y se quedaron como nuevos.

    Hola HzTweaker.Por pereza y falta de tiempo no modifique el crossover, lo tengo en tareas pendientes. Tendre primero que buscar y comprar los componentes.

    Si los monitores10 suenan muy bien , me an hecho disfrutar de placenteras y largas escuchas durante estos años.

    Muy agradecido por contestar.

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,795
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    Ok, another possible cause would be an air leak. Push the passive radiator in and hold it in. Watch the mid-drivers as you do this, they should pop out and slowly recede over the span of 3 to 5 seconds.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • HzTweaker
    HzTweaker Posts: 725
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    F1nut wrote: »
    Ok, another possible cause would be an air leak. Push the passive radiator in and hold it in. Watch the mid-drivers as you do this, they should pop out and slowly recede over the span of 3 to 5 seconds.

    What F1nut said^^^. Glad that you enjoy them! Good luck with your search for SDAs. If you like the Monitor10s you'll really like the SDAs.
    2ch rig:Speakers: LSi9s with VR3's Fortress modsPreamplifier: Parasound P5Amplifier: Parasound A23CDP: Pioneer DV-563ACables: Wireworld Equinox 7 XLR ICs, Wireworld Ultraviolet 7 USB, AudioQuest Q2s, AudioQuest NRG X(preamp)
  • hispania
    hispania Posts: 7
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    F1nut wrote: »
    Ok, another possible cause would be an air leak. Push the passive radiator in and hold it in. Watch the mid-drivers as you do this, they should pop out and slowly recede over the span of 3 to 5 seconds.

    It takes 2 seconds for the chronometer test to be carried out manually.

    Realizada la prueba cronometro en mano tardan 2 segundos.

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,795
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    2 seconds is too short. You have an air leak.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • hispania
    hispania Posts: 7
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    F1nut wrote: »
    2 seconds is too short. You have an air leak.

    I will check all the joints between speakers and the box, and also the crossover.

    Revisare todas las juntas entre altavozes y la caja , y tambien la del crossover.