How do i stain wood? what's the steps??

faster100

Ok i have a ??.... I do small woodworking projects, have for awhile now.. My latest project today is a tile coffee table, it has a 1" x 4" pine wood frame around it.. i know i need to pre-stain the pine, and i got the polyshades by minwax.. that has stain and poly in one step.. i usually use straight stain and it never looks good, kinda washed out.. what are some tips to staining to get a deep color and uniform?? Im useing natural cherry satin #360 in minwax... i know some of you are furniture savy so please enlighten me... tips. tricks and such....
also for the legs im useing the legs from a 70's table and want to know if i can sand that color off them and stain them also?? Its the real wood legs with like a brown color like old 70's speakers would have on them

Thanks

Demiurge

I don't know much about stripping wood, but I can tell you that when you're looking for a deep color it's good to go with a product that has a polyurethane finish and the stain all in one, and it looks like you've done that. If you're going for a deeper color as you said you are you can do multiple coats with that stuff and you should get a much deeper color. It's also imperitive that you sand lightly between coats.

One thing that ruins wood as far as not making it look 'uniform' is when you don't stir the stain often as you're working. The different chemicals start to seperate and you don't get the uniform look. You should be ok if you do multiple coats and sand lightly.

Just follow the grain and get rid of the excess before applying it. Hope this helped.

What are you using to stain with?

Frank Z

Putting stain onto pine can be ugly. I always use a good sanding sealer before applying stain. It will prevent the blotchy finish you're talking about. After you apply it and let it dry you'll need to go over everything with a fine grit sandpaper to knock down the raised grain. I would also suggest that you keep a supply of Tack Cloth handy to remove the dust from sanding.

amulford

Do you make sure to properly sand everything before you try to finish it? 95% of a nice finish is in the prep.

I usually sand in at least three steps - 80, 150, and 220. After throughly removing all of the dust I then apply the stain, unless I have a porous species, whereas I use a sealer.

Sometimes it takes a couple coats to acheive the desired color. Apply the stain and wait for up to fifteen minutes, then wipe off the excess. Allow to dry fully between applications.

After 24 hours, I then wipe it down again withtack cloth and then apply the finish with a GOOD brush. Allow to dry for 24 hours and lightly sand with a very fine sandpaper (at least 220). be sure to remove ALL dust and recoat as many times as your heart desires.

It sounds like alot, but the results are good. Just don't try to rush it, Rome wasn't built in a day;)

F1nut

If you want a deep stain then you have to use a dye. As far as the legs go, are they pine also? You'd do better to strip them, not sand off the exsisting finish.

On a piece like yours I would strip the legs, clean off the stripper residue with paint thinner, assemble the piece, lightly scuff sand in the direction of the grain with 220 grit serrated sandpaper, go over the whole piece with a tack cloth, chose a base color dye type stain (Solar-Lux) and apply the dye, after one hour spray on a seal coat (since you don't have spray equipment, you can buy lacquer in spray cans for a job this small), lightly scuff sand again and apply a cherry colored glaze wiping off the excess and let dry for 2 hours, apply two to three coats of lacquer, let dry and cure for a week. Now comes the real 95% of getting a nice finish, you must finish the finish. This is called rubbing out and depending on what sheen you are going for it can be fairly easy or pretty involved. Let's say you want a satin sheen, so you would get 0000 steel wool and lightly rub in the direction of the grain, I repeat...LIGHTLY and be careful on the edges as to not rub though the finish. After that wipe/buff the piece with a soft cotton cloth and you've got a nice looking piece with a deep, uniform color.

faster100

Thank you all very much for the help and suggections, much appreciated.. If it comes out ok, i'll post pictures

Pauly

Yes Cliff....sand real good and make sure you use the poper grit. #'s dont hit my head at this moment but do a med grit then follow up with a fine grit..deff makes a diff when you get your sand on b4 you stain:D

Spaz

F1nut

Sanding the crap out of a piece of wood does next to nothing, but make alot of extra work for you.

Demiurge

Sanding wood actually opens up the pores, but it's a rule that you need to lightly sand after each coat. It may be more work, but I always say "Do it right or don't do it at all."

faster100

Ok started staining this morning, it says with this poly stain to wait 6 hours or longer and use 000 steel wool to rub it down, then apply another coat, what does the steel wool do that 220 or higher wouldnt? lemme know

I'm not a master craftsman, but i have fun... heres a shot of the first coat, and then a closeup.. course the resolution is cut 10 fold to fit on this site (per rules)

faster100

and that top mdf will have tiles glued down and grouted when im done, and the legs wil have brackets fabricated from the old table to screw in underneath... later

faster100

this was my last project, 1910 -1930 era Hoosier cabinet

before

faster100

and top section

faster100

and the finished product, don't wanna waste any more web space.. just wanted to share

PolkThug

When I used to make furniture, I would stain it, then polyurethane treat it, then finish it off with steel wool and lemon oil.

Last thing I made was a dresser, a great hobby I would love to start again some day.

Regards,
PolkThug

faster100

Im trying the polyshades, its stain and poly all in one , well see i suppose,

amulford

Originally posted by F1nut
Sanding the crap out of a piece of wood does next to nothing, but make alot of extra work for you.

Jesse,

I didn't mean for him to take a belt sander to it or sandblast it. I (and this is a personal preference) sand in steps because it cuts down on the time. It also give the surface a uniformity so every little flaw doesn't show up in the finish.

I was under the impression this was new work. As for the refinishing, that is your forte and I would not question your advice (not that I'm questioning it now)

Faster'

Looks good man. Bet the Mrs. loves it when you do stuff like that, huh? Plus the satifaction you get when you look at it and see the good work!;)

faster100

Yeah she does, I put my second coat of stain on and its looking good so far,

faster100

update, progress.. next is stain the legs and grout tomorrow.. just installed the tile tonight

amulford

NICE!

wlrandall

Agreed, very nice work!

faster100

Thank you... will post the completed pictures in the next few days as long as it gets done...

madmax

I'm confused. Which are the before pics?





























Just Kidding!

VR3

Faster,

GREAT WORK MAN! NICE!

Max,

Lay off the Armor-All man...lol

faster100

when im done, im gonna armor all up the table top, maybe it will protect and seal it? LOL

madmax

Originally posted by Vr3MxStyler2k3


Max,

Lay off the Armor-All man...lol

Wrong thread man. I didn't say a word about it. You must have armor-all'd your mouse and clicked into this thread by mistake.

madmax

Very nice faster!!!

faster100

Thanks, heres a grouted picture, tomorrow, second coat on the legs and clear coat.. then i'm done..

faster100

well guys for those who were interested, heres the final product.. completed.. Thanks for the help and suggestions.. and compliments

faster100

and

nebborjk

Looks good. It inspires me to take on another project. Maybe I'll get started on a DIY Sub. Congrats!

faster100

Thanks, yeah you just gotta get out there and do it.. It's fun.