Tube amp for Monitor 10's & L.F 14

pMac76

Hi,
Can anyone give me a recommendation for a tube amplifier to power my
Monitor 10's and L.F. 14 (single) in A+B configuration? I was planning on
connecting the speakers to a speaker switch like the Beresford TC-7220 Mkii. I'm using a Project Phono Box usb V preamp with my Yamaha YP-D6
turntable (Ortofon 2M Blue) and a Nakamichi MB-10 CD player.
I've never owned a tube amp, and am not sure how powerful a tube amp
would have to be to run this setup?
Could you give me a budget recommendation as well as a next step up
recommendations?

Thanks,
Peter

Faustin

What is your budget? Integrated tube amp or separates?

cnh

Budget is kinda important here. If that's an issue, certainly go "integrated" and probably Chinese (Shuguang, Yaqin, etc.) Although Rogue is good if you can go $1200-$2000+

I'm cheap so I'm sticking with my older Jolida integrated (bought half-price, new, several years back) for a WHILE!

Check with some members here who run the above!

Dskip has some Shuguangs in his system (SET-single-ended triode). You don't need a TON of power from a tube amp to run M10s well!

voltz

I have a Silk Audio "MC-100b" Integrated tube amplifier and it handles my Monitor 10's just fine.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Silk-Audio-MC-100-Tube-Int-Amp-with-Psvane-tubes-from-same-factory-as-Yaqin-/221819230799?&_trksid=p2056016.l4276

pMac76

Thanks for your responses.
Budget wise I'm thinking $700USD at the lower end up to $1500USD for hopefully next stage up.
I guess that means integrated amp. Are my only options Chinese amps? My only concern is servicing in Australia, or isn't this an issue to worry about?
Thanks again

voltz

I didnt realize you where from Down under, The ebay seller is from the states and many of us have ordered from him and talk to him so hes safe to order from (and we didnt have to order from china)

also tubes amp don't have the A/B settings much. probably be cause they have to be under a load (speakers always hooked up) to use and most warm up before you turn up the volume and cooled down for awhile before you can turn them back on again after a power down.

This MC100b does not have a preout so you can not add a sub...

the L.F.14 you mentioned in the title, is this a sub?

pMac76

Hi voltz,
If the power supply is 110v-220v I don't mind buying from a U.S. Seller on eBay if I get a recommendation.
In terms of A+B speakers I was hoping to use a speaker switch for this, or wouldn't this work either?
The L.F. 14 is a low frequency speaker, I guess before they called them subs. It can be used in a pair or it has a switch to use it as a centre with both left and right speaker cables plugged into it.

boston1450

I have one of these & love it. I cant compare to others as this was my first http://m.ebay.com/itm/YAQIN-MS-30L-EL34-Push-Pull-Integrated-Stereo-Tube-Amplifier-/141770374537?nav=SEARCH.. i actually got the tube cd player first. Both come with remote controls...... I use it on Monitor 11's w/peerless tweets. Sorta kinda like the 10's & it does a excellent job

boston1450

That one listed doesnt show shipping charge. I paid around 200.00 for shipping from far away

pMac76

Hi boston1450,
Thanks for your recommendation, I'm glad to hear your happy with that set up.

I'm certainly can't call myself an audiophile, I'm just looking for something decent because after years of mp3s and shuffle on my iPhone I'm finally enjoying music again.

I guess I was after something like your recommendation for a budget set up and wanted to know what was a step beyond that so I could compare.
I've read a few reviews, but was after some first hand opinions for matching to my Polk's.
I'm also happy for other options if anyone what's to give them?
Thanks

Nightfall

nbrowser wrote: »

There's my two loonies...take as you wish.

Fixed that for ya

pMac76

Hi nbrowser,
Would the speaker switch be a problem if both A+B were switched on all the time just like I had on my receiver amp? I just like the extra base from the L.F. 14. I've asked Beresford, and they say the TC-7220 mk ii can have both A+B switched on.
Sorry, I'm just trying to find out if it's the actual switching between the speakers that's the problem, or actually running two sets at the same time?
Thanks

westmassguy

The L.F.14 isn't really a subwoofer by todays standards. It was sold as part of a 3 or 4 piece satellite system using Monitor 4s or 5s. It doesn't go much lower than your 10s do now. It's most likely adding bass re-enforcement, if the 10s are in a large space. The L.F.14 will also overlap at certain frequencies, which really isn't a good thing. You'd be better off with a quality, powered subwoofer, that's designed for music, if this is strictly for 2 channel. Better subwoofers will have an adjustable crossover that goes below 50 Hz. The 10s have a -3db of 37Hz, so you already have strong output in the 40Hz region.

pMac76

Thanks for the info westmassguy.
Your right, it is a larger space but not huge. It's about 24ft by 18ft. I'll have to look into that. Is there a way to use a subwoofer with a tube amp?
The only thing I've seen is a couple of very cheep 5.1 tube amps.

westmassguy

If your pre-amp doesn't have a subwoofer output, you can put Y connectors on the pre-outs, run one pair to the power amp, and the second pair to the subwoofer's line level inputs. Better subs will have left and right input, and sum the low bass from the two channels. If your subwoofer only has a single line level input, you'll have to use the speaker level inputs, and the speaker level outputs would go to the 10s. Line level is better, but sometimes you have no choice.