Polk LSiM 705 & 707's 1/2 off
Comments
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Like a lot of large floorstanding speakers, I've found the LSiM707s to not be perfectly integrated between the woofer sections and the midrange/tweeter section of the cabinet. On some music, it can seem like the midrange/tweeter section is sitting on top of a subwoofer. It's slightly perceptible to me, but still a very smooth sounding speaker. I just see this as being a residual effect of the nature of large box speakers with multiple drivers, cabinet sections, and crossovers. Except for SDAs the 707s are still the best overall Polk speaker design I've heard for a combination of music and home theater use.
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I can't say as I have never heard the 705. I wanted the705 based on the opinions of the membersafterburnt wrote: »@HeadEast Thanks for the heads up I pretty much scored on this deal. Great price for 705's and a better price for 707's! No complaints because they are not cherry. I think I will paint teeth on them they remind me of the Alien.
No problem - I just wish I could have convinced wife that we needed them - I will get them eventually - I have LSI 25's now
- let me ask you though
Many on here have said that most systems don't really need the 707's - what do you think now that you have them? do you wish they were 705's?
thanks
ed
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Kurt I get what you're saying here. Can you also give some definition to the room sizes you're meaning?I have 4 pairs of 707s and 2 pairs of 705s, all driven by 250 wpc Parasound power, so my perspective might be useful. The 705s create the most accurately reproduced linear sound, whereas the 707s are deeper and fuller on the bottom end. For me, this makes the 707s better in bigger rooms with a lot of air to move, and with more required drama (think HT as well as music). For smaller rooms (only), the 705s are actually more precise and pleasing. All IMHO...
I enjoy 703's in smaller spaces by themselves (11x11)
In a larger space, they still seem to do pretty nicely with a sub (roughly 16x28 w/fore and aft "wings" at left side of space)
makes me wonder which floor stander would be best, since I would want to use them without the sub. otherwise why bother moving up from 703's?
Some good info in this thread. got me wondering more about the differences now. I probably need to read that debate thread on the 705/707, as well.
I disabled signatures. -
Msg, the bedroom with the 705s is about 21x15, with a 12 ft ceiling.
The 707s are in an interconnected living room with wide entrances from a foyer and a dining room (with another living room open to the dining room as well on the other end). The main living room is 22x17 with a sloped ceiling going as high as 20 ft. But the effective room size is much bigger, because of the open floor plan (there is also a through space above 8 ft high from the main living room to a 28x13 kitchen). As I said, lots of air to move. I also have dual SVS subs to hit the low end for HT (please see my signature).
Another input to my speaker selection is the type of music and intended volume levels. The bedroom doesn't get the same volume as the living room HT.
Hope this helps! -
I may have already mentioned somewhere that I ran a test blue ray "Pacific Rim" and I got the impression that I may not need a second sub with these speakers. The YAPO set the sub XO at 40htz I thought that was too low so I am running it a 60htz. Does anybody think that I should set the Sub XO at a different value?
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afterburnt wrote: »I may have already mentioned somewhere that I ran a test blue ray "Pacific Rim" and I got the impression that I may not need a second sub with these speakers. The YAPO set the sub XO at 40htz I thought that was too low so I am running it a 60htz. Does anybody think that I should set the Sub XO at a different value?
I always used 80hz. But after reading a boatload about audyssey they recommend 120hz. I know you don't use audyssey but my system seems more dynamic set this way. So far it's great!
2 channel:
Bryston 4B3, Bryston BDA3, Cary SLP05, Shanling CDT1000SE with parts conneXion level 2 mods, Nottingham analogue ace space 294, soundsmith Carmen MKii, Zu DL103 MKii, Ortofon MC 20 MKii, Dynavector XX2 MKii, Rogue Audio Ares, Core power technologies balanced power conditioner, Akiko Corelli power conditioner with Akiko Audio HQ power cable, Nordost heimdall 2, Frey 2, interconnects, speaker and power cables, Focal Electra 1028 BE 2, Auralic Aries Femto, Black diamond racing cones, ingress audio level 1 roller blocks, JL Audio E110 with Auralic subdude, Primacoustics room treatments.
Theater:
Focal Aria 926,905,CC900, SVS PB ultra x2. Pioneer Elite SC85, Oppo BDP93, Panamax M5400PM, Minix neox6, Nordost Blue heaven LS power cables. -
I've purchased from them in the past. No issues.
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Thanks for all the feedback and opinions
ed -
afterburnt wrote: »I may have already mentioned somewhere that I ran a test blue ray "Pacific Rim" and I got the impression that I may not need a second sub with these speakers. The YAPO set the sub XO at 40htz I thought that was too low so I am running it a 60htz. Does anybody think that I should set the Sub XO at a different value?
I always used 80hz. But after reading a boatload about audyssey they recommend 120hz. I know you don't use audyssey but my system seems more dynamic set this way. So far it's great!
wont that just turn them into 703's?
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wow, really? 120hz seems high. I would think that be used more with baby satellite speakers or something that can't get down, and even then, that's still really vocal for a sub. don't you get a fair measure of voice in the sub at 120?
I play around sometimes, and find that 70Hz cross gives pleasing results.I disabled signatures. -
afterburnt wrote: »afterburnt wrote: »I may have already mentioned somewhere that I ran a test blue ray "Pacific Rim" and I got the impression that I may not need a second sub with these speakers. The YAPO set the sub XO at 40htz I thought that was too low so I am running it a 60htz. Does anybody think that I should set the Sub XO at a different value?
I always used 80hz. But after reading a boatload about audyssey they recommend 120hz. I know you don't use audyssey but my system seems more dynamic set this way. So far it's great!
wont that just turn them into 703's?
Speakers crossed over at 80hz, but lfe is set for 120.2 channel:
Bryston 4B3, Bryston BDA3, Cary SLP05, Shanling CDT1000SE with parts conneXion level 2 mods, Nottingham analogue ace space 294, soundsmith Carmen MKii, Zu DL103 MKii, Ortofon MC 20 MKii, Dynavector XX2 MKii, Rogue Audio Ares, Core power technologies balanced power conditioner, Akiko Corelli power conditioner with Akiko Audio HQ power cable, Nordost heimdall 2, Frey 2, interconnects, speaker and power cables, Focal Electra 1028 BE 2, Auralic Aries Femto, Black diamond racing cones, ingress audio level 1 roller blocks, JL Audio E110 with Auralic subdude, Primacoustics room treatments.
Theater:
Focal Aria 926,905,CC900, SVS PB ultra x2. Pioneer Elite SC85, Oppo BDP93, Panamax M5400PM, Minix neox6, Nordost Blue heaven LS power cables. -
Picked this off the audyssey website. So figured why not give it a try? Absolutely zero voices come through the sub.
The LFE signal and the bass management crossover are two different things.
The crossover is responsible for taking the bass from the speakers and sending it to the subwoofer. That should be set at around the frequency where your speakers are no longer able to reproduce bass. This is called the crossover frequency.
In 5.1 content, there is an additional bass-only track called the LFE track. This is not played from the main speakers, but only from the subwoofer. This track is authored to have content up to 120 Hz and so the filter in the AVR called LFE Lowpass should be set to 120 Hz. Always. It is a mistake for AVR makers to even make this an option as it has nothing to do with bass management.2 channel:
Bryston 4B3, Bryston BDA3, Cary SLP05, Shanling CDT1000SE with parts conneXion level 2 mods, Nottingham analogue ace space 294, soundsmith Carmen MKii, Zu DL103 MKii, Ortofon MC 20 MKii, Dynavector XX2 MKii, Rogue Audio Ares, Core power technologies balanced power conditioner, Akiko Corelli power conditioner with Akiko Audio HQ power cable, Nordost heimdall 2, Frey 2, interconnects, speaker and power cables, Focal Electra 1028 BE 2, Auralic Aries Femto, Black diamond racing cones, ingress audio level 1 roller blocks, JL Audio E110 with Auralic subdude, Primacoustics room treatments.
Theater:
Focal Aria 926,905,CC900, SVS PB ultra x2. Pioneer Elite SC85, Oppo BDP93, Panamax M5400PM, Minix neox6, Nordost Blue heaven LS power cables. -
I don't buy that. The idea of a subwoofer is to provide the low frequencies without bringing attention to itself. You want everything to be as transparent as possible. Running LFE up to 120 hz is going to make that subwoofer localized. I guess for some this is a non-issue, but its a deal breaker for me. If it has valuable information from 80-120 that isn't present in the main signal, then I could see why they say that. However, if that is the case, I think there's a bigger issue at play that starts at production.
I've always used 80hz. But since I'm new to audyssey and marantz. I tried it, and have read the long as &$@! Thread on home theater shack and avs. There has been zero issue as far as blending. And from my research the 80 or 120hz topic seems to get as heated as cables! After getting familiar with audyssey, it does a really nice job with everything. I'm super impressed with it. Maybe I will switch the lfe back to 80 now that I'm familiar with the sound and see what changes are brought about.
2 channel:
Bryston 4B3, Bryston BDA3, Cary SLP05, Shanling CDT1000SE with parts conneXion level 2 mods, Nottingham analogue ace space 294, soundsmith Carmen MKii, Zu DL103 MKii, Ortofon MC 20 MKii, Dynavector XX2 MKii, Rogue Audio Ares, Core power technologies balanced power conditioner, Akiko Corelli power conditioner with Akiko Audio HQ power cable, Nordost heimdall 2, Frey 2, interconnects, speaker and power cables, Focal Electra 1028 BE 2, Auralic Aries Femto, Black diamond racing cones, ingress audio level 1 roller blocks, JL Audio E110 with Auralic subdude, Primacoustics room treatments.
Theater:
Focal Aria 926,905,CC900, SVS PB ultra x2. Pioneer Elite SC85, Oppo BDP93, Panamax M5400PM, Minix neox6, Nordost Blue heaven LS power cables. -
This is the first I'm hearing of this, but I'm not a big theater type. Interesting on the LFE track and crossover.
I'd like to hear an experiment firsthand.
I disabled signatures. -
I dont know i still have 100 hours to go
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This is the first I'm hearing of this, but I'm not a big theater type. Interesting on the LFE track and crossover.
I'd like to hear an experiment firsthand.
As far as I know only for home theater. My 2 channel journey has only just begun! And it seems very dangerous for the bank account.2 channel:
Bryston 4B3, Bryston BDA3, Cary SLP05, Shanling CDT1000SE with parts conneXion level 2 mods, Nottingham analogue ace space 294, soundsmith Carmen MKii, Zu DL103 MKii, Ortofon MC 20 MKii, Dynavector XX2 MKii, Rogue Audio Ares, Core power technologies balanced power conditioner, Akiko Corelli power conditioner with Akiko Audio HQ power cable, Nordost heimdall 2, Frey 2, interconnects, speaker and power cables, Focal Electra 1028 BE 2, Auralic Aries Femto, Black diamond racing cones, ingress audio level 1 roller blocks, JL Audio E110 with Auralic subdude, Primacoustics room treatments.
Theater:
Focal Aria 926,905,CC900, SVS PB ultra x2. Pioneer Elite SC85, Oppo BDP93, Panamax M5400PM, Minix neox6, Nordost Blue heaven LS power cables. -
I am not going to pass judgment on these speakers, not yet. They are pretty bad assed in the HT realm.
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I'm giving them a workout "pure direct" pretty damned good coverage, maybe a little too much bottom???
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not that I don't like it, but they do thump pretty hard but it is not overwhelming but I am coming from Monitor 70 fronts
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I think I have a lot of extra speakers
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afterburnt wrote: »I think I have a lot of extra speakers
I never see that as a bad thing. Just as long as you can enjoy them all once in a while.
2 channel:
Bryston 4B3, Bryston BDA3, Cary SLP05, Shanling CDT1000SE with parts conneXion level 2 mods, Nottingham analogue ace space 294, soundsmith Carmen MKii, Zu DL103 MKii, Ortofon MC 20 MKii, Dynavector XX2 MKii, Rogue Audio Ares, Core power technologies balanced power conditioner, Akiko Corelli power conditioner with Akiko Audio HQ power cable, Nordost heimdall 2, Frey 2, interconnects, speaker and power cables, Focal Electra 1028 BE 2, Auralic Aries Femto, Black diamond racing cones, ingress audio level 1 roller blocks, JL Audio E110 with Auralic subdude, Primacoustics room treatments.
Theater:
Focal Aria 926,905,CC900, SVS PB ultra x2. Pioneer Elite SC85, Oppo BDP93, Panamax M5400PM, Minix neox6, Nordost Blue heaven LS power cables. -
I certainly see what you. Mean I wonder if this is as apparent with 705's?Like a lot of large floorstanding speakers, I've found the LSiM707s to not be perfectly integrated between the woofer sections and the midrange/tweeter section of the cabinet. On some music, it can seem like the midrange/tweeter section is sitting on top of a subwoofer. It's slightly perceptible to me, but still a very smooth sounding speaker. I just see this as being a residual effect of the nature of large box speakers with multiple drivers, cabinet sections, and crossovers. Except for SDAs the 707s are still the best overall Polk speaker design I've heard for a combination of music and home theater use.
