Lsim707 vs 703 2 channel only
turbosubaru
Posts: 3
Hey Polk folks. Please help me decide on what I hope is an obvious conclusion. After some brief reading around here...I see has the 703 has excellent slam in the mids and is arguably the most dynamic/engaging of the 3 lsims. I see the 707 needs an incredible amount of space and I have it. I have linked my floor plan to my basement. The listening position/seating is roughly located at the labeled "home theater". As you can see the whole floor is open concept. I will absolutely not be using any subwoofers.
The choice is obvious, correct, the 707s? I will be purchasing from polks eBay store. Amplification will be my parents onkyo tx sr601 until I decide what to upgrade too. This amp will be safe to use with either lsim for a short period, correct?
Useage will be 50/50 movies music but could easily favor music as these would be my first hi fi speakers. I am coming from a pair of energy rc 70s.
Thanks so much.
The choice is obvious, correct, the 707s? I will be purchasing from polks eBay store. Amplification will be my parents onkyo tx sr601 until I decide what to upgrade too. This amp will be safe to use with either lsim for a short period, correct?
Useage will be 50/50 movies music but could easily favor music as these would be my first hi fi speakers. I am coming from a pair of energy rc 70s.
Thanks so much.
Comments
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Pics upside down bro.
Your first HI-FI speakers deserve some better hi-fi gear to sound their best. Sure, the 707's would be great, but that receiver needs to be upgraded and even better....add an amp too.
Would also consider adding a good subwoofer if movies is going to be 50% of your listening. I know....money, can always add it later though.
Can you use that receiver for the time being ? Sure, but don't push it to ungodly levels. Also consider some good cabling....if you don't have any yet.HT SYSTEM-
Sony 850c 4k
Pioneer elite vhx 21
Sony 4k BRP
SVS SB-2000
Polk Sig. 20's
Polk FX500 surrounds
Cables-
Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable
Kitchen
Sonos zp90
Grant Fidelity tube dac
B&k 1420
lsi 9's -
I'd go for the 705's instead of the 707's and put the unspent $1K toward a good subwoofer. The 707's only extend to 38Hz at -3dB, which is good for a floorstander with music, but is missing a lot of info for movie soundtracks. Just run the speakers at the "Small" setting crossed over at 80Hz until a more powerful receiver can be obtained.
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Thanks tony, skip, em.
I guess I'm just a simple man and don't want subwoofers anymore. I've had my share of hsu subs. The only reason I'm considering the 707s is because I can get them for $2400 a pair(refurbished)on the eBay store. I was quoted $1880 a piece by the only authorized dealer in town who would have to order them.
I have been using monoprice for a while but am actually just now switching to blue jeans cables.
I suppose I have sort of a mental obsession of sitting in front of 2 huge towers and nothing else. If I was defiant in getting a subwoofer, the 707 would be the obvious choice over the 705s?
I see no one mentioned the 703s. I suppose those definitely require a sub.
im definitely open to separates for amplification as well. I'm not sure I could afford the big names so I might be stuck with outlaw/emotiva. I honestly do not know much at all about separates. I hear para sound is a great match with Polk? Maybe? -
Area is to large for the 703's without a sub. I rarely recommend the 707's but in this case that's the route i would go2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC
erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a -
Thanks tx,
Curious do you 4 not believe the 707 is a worthy flagship-even at the Polk eBay price? Or simply just overkill when paired with a subwoofer? -
Yeah, if your dead set on no subwoofer, get the biggest floorstander you can afford. You can always add one later if you change your mind.HT SYSTEM-
Sony 850c 4k
Pioneer elite vhx 21
Sony 4k BRP
SVS SB-2000
Polk Sig. 20's
Polk FX500 surrounds
Cables-
Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable
Kitchen
Sonos zp90
Grant Fidelity tube dac
B&k 1420
lsi 9's -
I think either way you go you should consider a subwoofer or two. For movies, I don't think you're going to get the tactile sensation you are looking for. Even for music, the subs will add something that neither of the towers will be able to properly convey.
This times 1000.
No tower speaker can give you what a sub can. You might think you can do without it, but it really becomes noticeable once one is added.Marantz AV-7705 PrePro, Classé 5 channel 200wpc Amp, Oppo 103 BluRay, Rotel RCD-1072 CDP, Sony XBR-49X800E TV, Polk S60 Main Speakers, Polk ES30 Center Channel, Polk S15 Surround Speakers SVS SB12-NSD x2 -
+1 for getting a sub (or 2). Since the OP originally didnt want to add a sub, the OP can run the AVR in 2ch mode for music..then add the sub (or 2)for movies. Thats what I do. Just a thoughtMy Setup: Denon AVR X3600h, Polk Signature S50 Fronts w/ S30 Center and S15 Rears, LG UBK90 4K Player, TCL 6-Series 65”4k TV
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separates to consider regards to cost/value
Parasound
Rotel
B&K
Adcom
do a little homeworkMain Rig:
Antipodes DX > Roon > PS Audio Directstream Jr.>deHavilland Ultraverve 3 >Belles Reference 150a >Harbeth C7 ES3
Second Rig:
Roon> PS Audio Directstream Jr Bridge II > EE Minimax pre (Tutay mods) >Belles 150A Ref >Monitor 5 (Westmassguy-modded) -
turbosubaru wrote: »I suppose I have sort of a mental obsession of sitting in front of 2 huge towers and nothing else.
2.2 Office Setup | LG 29UB55 21:9 UltraWide | HP Probook 630 G8 | Dell Latitude | Cabasse Stream Amp 100 | Boston Acoustics VS 240 | AUDIORAX Desk Stands | Mirage Omni S8 sub1 | Mirage Omni S8 Sub2 -
I've used my modded lsi 15's With no sub for ages. Never felt the need to buy a sub, the 15's always had great bass. Then one day..... I tripped and fell, and bought an svs sb1000. Stuffed it behind one of the towers. Did a bit of level matching, played with the phase, and within about 20 minutes I had some nice tight bass. I was blown away how well they blend. The little svs just disappeared, figuratively and literally. People always comment how nice it sounds, they are always surprised when I tell them there's a tiny sub back there. I highly recommend a sub to cover the lower end. The system sounds so lively and dynamical all of a sudden. And I'm a guy that loves big towers.2 channel:
Bryston 4B3, Bryston BDA3, Cary SLP05, Shanling CDT1000SE with parts conneXion level 2 mods, Nottingham analogue ace space 294, soundsmith Carmen MKii, Zu DL103 MKii, Ortofon MC 20 MKii, Dynavector XX2 MKii, Rogue Audio Ares, Core power technologies balanced power conditioner, Akiko Corelli power conditioner with Akiko Audio HQ power cable, Nordost heimdall 2, Frey 2, interconnects, speaker and power cables, Focal Electra 1028 BE 2, Auralic Aries Femto, Black diamond racing cones, ingress audio level 1 roller blocks, JL Audio E110 with Auralic subdude, Primacoustics room treatments.
Theater:
Focal Aria 926,905,CC900, SVS PB ultra x2. Pioneer Elite SC85, Oppo BDP93, Panamax M5400PM, Minix neox6, Nordost Blue heaven LS power cables. -
It is amazing what a good amp can do for the bass too. I had run my LSi15's with my old beefy Denon DRA-835R stereo receiver and it was ok but I couldn't get the bass to sound right. I switched to a Parasound HCA-800II and the mids thru highs were better and had a more dimensional sound stage than with the Denon but the bass was a little less controlled. I was about to give up on the LSi15's until I picked up an HCA-1000A and they came to life. The bass is much better controlled and the sound stage is incredible. I keep the LSi15's now and might look for an even better Parasound (HCA-1500A).
The amp makes a huge difference with hard to drive speakers. I also want to upgrade my speaker cables. I have long runs, about 25ft, of 14 awg (over glorified lamp cord). This is likely working against the damping factor of the system. Bluejeans 10 or 12 awg is on my list.Stan
Main 2ch:
Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.
HT:
Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60
Other stuff:
Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601 -
It took my lsi15's a couple of b&k mono blocks to get them sounding just right2 channel:
Bryston 4B3, Bryston BDA3, Cary SLP05, Shanling CDT1000SE with parts conneXion level 2 mods, Nottingham analogue ace space 294, soundsmith Carmen MKii, Zu DL103 MKii, Ortofon MC 20 MKii, Dynavector XX2 MKii, Rogue Audio Ares, Core power technologies balanced power conditioner, Akiko Corelli power conditioner with Akiko Audio HQ power cable, Nordost heimdall 2, Frey 2, interconnects, speaker and power cables, Focal Electra 1028 BE 2, Auralic Aries Femto, Black diamond racing cones, ingress audio level 1 roller blocks, JL Audio E110 with Auralic subdude, Primacoustics room treatments.
Theater:
Focal Aria 926,905,CC900, SVS PB ultra x2. Pioneer Elite SC85, Oppo BDP93, Panamax M5400PM, Minix neox6, Nordost Blue heaven LS power cables. -
here is my experience and I hope you won't make the same mistake.
@ 2 channels and HT system, I bought 3 707s and 4 703s when Polk had them for 50%. Already have a Supercube 1 sub, Denon AVR 3606, Rotel RB1095 5x200WPC. Big living room open to kitchen. AVR powers the rear speakers
1st mistake: Wife disapproved the size of the 707 to be used as a Center, so it's still new in box in Denver area if anyone is interested. I was forced to buy a 706c instead.
2nd mistake: In 2 channels mode, no matter what i do, there is not enough bass out of the huge 707. I ran in full range, biamp the rotel, so each speaker gets 2x 200WPC. I've to cross at 60hz and let the Supercube takes over. Just for fun, with the sub connected, I replaced the 707s with 703s on stands at the same spot and the system sounds the same. To me, the 2 woofers in the 707 are wasted. You will likely need a sub anyway regardless. If I have to do it over, I would get all 703s and put the $ in a sub or two. -
To me, the 2 woofers in the 707 are wasted. You will likely need a sub anyway regardless. If I have to do it over, I would get all 703s and put the $ in a sub or two.
IMO, having never owned the LSiM line, I agree. For a 50/50 system this makes SO much sense. To go for the bookies and spend the money on at least to large subs. Especially for a 25' x 17' room!
2.2 Office Setup | LG 29UB55 21:9 UltraWide | HP Probook 630 G8 | Dell Latitude | Cabasse Stream Amp 100 | Boston Acoustics VS 240 | AUDIORAX Desk Stands | Mirage Omni S8 sub1 | Mirage Omni S8 Sub2 -
You might want to think old school and get some SDA SRS. No sub needed imhoThe Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD
“When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson