Outlaw Audio 975 on the way!

gp4jesus
gp4jesus Posts: 1,987
in Electronics
Ordered it Friday. Should be here before the weekend.

The Rotel-faithful will brand me a heretic but my wallet and wife are all smiles!

Now if someone could explain how to PM another member to my feeble brain...

Tony
Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out 8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out *soldered LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged*” Mids - 981, connected w/MP Premiere ICs Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s *Xschop's handy work
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Comments

  • voltz
    voltz Posts: 5,384
    Congrats and PM sent! :)
    2 ch- Polk CRS+ * Vincent SA-31MK Preamp * Vincent Sp-331 Amp * Marantz SA8005 SACD * Project Xperience Classic TT * Sumiko Blue Point #2 MC cartridge

    HT - Polk 703's * NAD T-758 * Adcom 5503 * Oppo 103 * Samsung 60" series 8 LCD
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  • littlewoodboats
    littlewoodboats Posts: 823
    The Outlaw piece is an excellent audio processor. You should be happy with your purchase. If you do not currently have a SPL meter you will need one for the level calibration.
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  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,987
    edited May 2015
    It's here!
    littlewoodboats wrote: »
    If you do not currently have a SPL meter you will need one for the level calibration.
    I read that though I doubt I'll NEED one. My 2 previous Pre/pros didn't have built in calibration and I managed.

    What I need is a way to turn on my '80s circa amps w/the Outlaw.

    Thanx, Tony
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out 8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out *soldered LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged*” Mids - 981, connected w/MP Premiere ICs Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s *Xschop's handy work
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  • littlewoodboats
    littlewoodboats Posts: 823
    edited May 2015
    Need is probably a strong word. As this was my first exposure to other than 2-channel I was going for every data point I could get. From an audio standpoint the unit is quite flexible.

    I look forward to hearing your first impressions.

    How much electricity does a proper amp draw if there is no input signal?



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  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,987
    Watch my first movie last night on the 975 - thoroughly enjoyed "Jack Ryan, Shadow recruit" on Blu-Ray.

    Seems to provide the same, if not better, "immersive" SQ as Rotel 1068 but w/out the listener fatigue. I noticed edginess when the missile hit the helicopter, but other than that...

    Disclaimer: output circuits had ZERO time on them. When it first arrived, I had to quickly decide audio output to TV or amps - it won't do both. My game-crazy, Autistic 7 year old son fussed about game audio, not allowing me to complete setup & calibration until last night.

    Didn't do any tweaking during the movie. Can't wait to rack up more time on those circuits for SQ improvement.

    HELP! The 975 power draw is so much lower than the Rotel it doesn't reliably turn on my "switching" power strip for my amps.

    Stay tuned, Tony
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out 8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out *soldered LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged*” Mids - 981, connected w/MP Premiere ICs Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s *Xschop's handy work
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  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,987
    Update: plugging in both the 975 & TDM (on all the time) makes the "switching" strip work to power up/down amps w/the 975.

    Also my gamers LOVE 5.1 Game sound!
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out 8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out *soldered LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged*” Mids - 981, connected w/MP Premiere ICs Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s *Xschop's handy work
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  • littlewoodboats
    littlewoodboats Posts: 823
    There is a gamer here that loves mine as well
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  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,987
    HELP?! Had it less than a month! Well, not really.

    Earlier it stopped passing/processing HDMI/audio. All any of us could hear was a clicking (relay?) from inside the case.

    I will call Outlaw tomorrow for an RA.
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out 8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out *soldered LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged*” Mids - 981, connected w/MP Premiere ICs Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s *Xschop's handy work
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  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,987
    It is well ventilated - NOTHING around it or even on the shelf beneath it. Outlaw says caused by "brown outs." Recently had that happen to a bunch in Texas.

    The good news is they're swapping it @ no charge. I guess because it was in service less than 30 days.

    We can't wait for the replacement to arrive!

    Tony
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out 8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out *soldered LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged*” Mids - 981, connected w/MP Premiere ICs Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s *Xschop's handy work
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  • littlewoodboats
    littlewoodboats Posts: 823
    The only HDMI issue I have had with mine has been cable related. I have had two cheap HDMI cables that did not seat tightly and would wiggle loose if I moved anything that moved the cables.

    If you talked with Ben at Outlaw I am sure he suggested what they call "hot swapping". With the loose cables I had in place unplugging and plugging back in solved my problem. After replacing the two cables there have been no further issues.

    When I had my On Screen Display OSD issue Outlaw had shipping confirmation for the replacement unit to my by noon the day I called about the issue. No one ever wants to find out how good a companies customer service might be but Outlaw seems to do quite well.

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  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,987
    HELP!!

    New unit arrived yesterday. Swapped all connections, adjusted speaker distances & levels etc, back in business, right? Well for day any way.

    Just came home to the new unit emitting the same clicking sound from inside the case w/a dark display.

    @ 5:20, after Outlaw's regular hours, someone answered the phone & took some info.

    I expect Ben to call me Monday am. That, and I'm in the market for a UPS.

    Stay tuned. Tony
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out 8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out *soldered LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged*” Mids - 981, connected w/MP Premiere ICs Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s *Xschop's handy work
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  • littlewoodboats
    littlewoodboats Posts: 823
    Even on the Outlaw forum I have not seen anyone with these kinds of repeated issues. Just for the hell of it you could try resetting the unit.

    Resetting is done by simultaneously pressing and holding the tuner and mute buttons until the word reset appears in the display.

    Major bummer
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  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,987
    edited June 2015
    Major is right!

    I'll try that when I get home. Glad you know the 975 so well - hope that works.

    Thanks. Tony
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out 8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out *soldered LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged*” Mids - 981, connected w/MP Premiere ICs Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s *Xschop's handy work
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  • littlewoodboats
    littlewoodboats Posts: 823
    edited June 2015
    HDMI connections seem to be an issue with some cables. Anytime you lose video try hot swapping the cable. Unplug and plug back in.

    I have also noticed the unit acts like computers of old in some ways. Back in the early DOS days if something like the printer was not turned on before the computer the computer would not see the printer. The M-975 seems to act the same.

    Here is an example. I am listening to Kasey Kasem on the radio (pretty good tuner). If I want to switch to the TV I need to turn on the TV before switching the Outlaw. I think it has something to do with the ARC. The Outlaw sends a ping to the TV and sits there like a tard if it does not see a return ping.

    Lasareath pointed out something above that I have found to be quite true. The Outlaw wants to be out in the open with good ventilation. It runs hotter than the GFP-750 ever did.
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  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,590
    Ok, some may call me crazy but here is another suggestion.

    Buy "Decent" HDMI cables from a brand like BlueJeansCable, Audioquest, etc...

    Avoid the monoprice stuff.....

    I'm running Audioquest Cinnamon cables and I found them all for reasonable prices on eBay....

    Are they 1 dollar 10 foot cables.... no.... but I got all of them fur 50% MSRP... and I went with Cinnamon mainly so I didn't wonder "what if" and I knew I'd never need to go higher in the line as my budget would never allow it...

    You could just go with their entry level cables (Pearl) or as I said Blue Jeans Cables.... Because cheap terminations (on any cable) can cause HDMI handshake issues...
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
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  • littlewoodboats
    littlewoodboats Posts: 823
    EndersShadow wrote: »
    Ok, some may call me crazy but here is another suggestion.

    Buy "Decent" HDMI cables from a brand like BlueJeansCable, Audioquest, etc...

    Avoid the monoprice stuff.....

    I'm running Audioquest Cinnamon cables and I found them all for reasonable prices on eBay....

    Are they 1 dollar 10 foot cables.... no.... but I got all of them fur 50% MSRP... and I went with Cinnamon mainly so I didn't wonder "what if" and I knew I'd never need to go higher in the line as my budget would never allow it...

    You could just go with their entry level cables (Pearl) or as I said Blue Jeans Cables.... Because cheap terminations (on any cable) can cause HDMI handshake issues...

    Having now seen this first hand I agree completely.

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  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,987
    Oops! I hafta clarify some misstated points from my earlier posts.
    A side note: thanks for the HDMI recommendations - I plan to upgrade them after I clear this hurdle.
    "...passing/processing HDMI/audio ...:" I was wrong to post that comment - my 3 week old 975 "broke." NO audio or video output.
    "Clicking:" a mechanical sound emitting from INSIDE the 975 maybe from a relay?
    "Display:" the 975 front panel display.

    Until I reset* the unit, that is if that* works or I wait till Monday to hear what Outlaw CS says...
    Tony
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out 8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out *soldered LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged*” Mids - 981, connected w/MP Premiere ICs Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s *Xschop's handy work
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  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,987
    It's dead.

    The unit "clicks" instead of powering up after pressing Standby. I pressed and held Tuner & Mute until my fingers hurt but no Reset. Also tried holding Tuner & Mute THEN pressing Standby, it wouldn't do anything. Display remains dark.

    Monday...
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out 8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out *soldered LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged*” Mids - 981, connected w/MP Premiere ICs Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s *Xschop's handy work
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  • tonyb
    tonyb Posts: 32,967
    Wow....2 dead units Tony ? That would really yank my chain. They say 3 times a charm but I wouldn't go there. I'd ask for a refund and move on.
    HT SYSTEM-
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    Cables-
    Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
    Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
    Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
    Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable

    Kitchen

    Sonos zp90
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  • littlewoodboats
    littlewoodboats Posts: 823
    edited June 2015
    I love mine but I have to agree with tonyb. Unless there is some strange outside influence killing the units I do not think I would feel confident at this point.

    Which remote are you using? I use the small one and just checked, there is no button labeled Standby.
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  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,987
    edited June 2015
    tonyb: Yeah, you read that right, two dead units. The first lasted 3+ weeks; the 2nd less than 24hours.

    LWBs: I used the front panel buttons to attempt Reset. While I have major doubts, I'll try the Remotes after I pick up my 9 year old from a friends house.
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out 8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out *soldered LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged*” Mids - 981, connected w/MP Premiere ICs Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s *Xschop's handy work
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  • littlewoodboats
    littlewoodboats Posts: 823
    I just saw what you were referring to. Other than to dust it from time to time I do not go near the unit.

    Good luck
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  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,987
    littlewoodboats suggested a possible cause for TWO failed units may be the Monster Cable switch-on strip.

    The strip senses when I turn on the 975, turning on all the power amps listed in my sig, possibly creating a brown out condition. One a relay in the switching PS doesn't tolerate.

    I'll get busy w/my DMM tomorrow afternoon... ...thanks you ever so much for your time
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out 8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out *soldered LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged*” Mids - 981, connected w/MP Premiere ICs Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s *Xschop's handy work
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  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,987
    No-load Line voltage varies from 115**-122VAC*. When I flip the switch to turn on 4 power amps charging up a total of about 200K mfds, line voltage drops between 7* to 11** volts depending upon the no-load reading.

    So I'm in the market for a regulated 120VAC 25W PS. That and the right words for Outlaw Customer service so they'll give me a third unit free.
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out 8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out *soldered LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged*” Mids - 981, connected w/MP Premiere ICs Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s *Xschop's handy work
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  • Dennis Gardner
    Dennis Gardner Posts: 4,861
    I have a problem with brown outs regularly with my Anthem MRX receiver. Once power flickers at all, it just sits there with the usual red standby light, but will not power up with the remote until I physically unplug the power cable for 3 seconds and it will reset itself. It has done it since new and during the spring, this seems to happen at least once a week. No other piece of gear that I have is so sensitive to power changes.
    HT Optoma HD25 LV on 80" DIY Screen, Anthem MRX 300 Receiver, Pioneer Elite BDP 51FD Polk CS350LS, Polk SDA1C, Polk FX300, Polk RT55, Dual EBS Adire Shiva 320watt tuned to 17hz, ICs-DIY Twisted Prs, Speaker-Raymond Cable

    2 Channel Thorens TD 318 Grado ZF1, SACD/CD Marantz 8260, Soundstream/Krell DAC1, Audio Mirror PP1, Odyssey Stratos, ADS L-1290, ICs-DIY Twisted , Speaker-Raymond Cable
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