Monitor 10 upgrade option
rviloria07
Posts: 16
I'm thinking about restoring an original Polk Monitor 10s that was given to me. I contacted David from Dhsspeakerservice.com. He gave me the following upgrade uptions. I'd like to ask you guys what options should I take that would be economical yet give me top notch sound. Below are the choices. Thanks
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Hi Ronnie. I worked up the numbers for your Monitor 10s. These prices are based on the photos and information you provided. Schematics for the early Polk Monitors do not exist. There are 4 options with increasing quality of components. In all cases, the existing Mylar, and Electrolytic Capacitors will be replaced with Metalized Polypropylene Capacitors. All Sand Cast Resistors will be replaced with Mills MRA-12 or Mundorf MOX audio grade Resistors. The Fuse Blocks for the Woofers will be removed, however I recommend retaining the Tweeter fuses for protection. In addition, there are options for replacement Binding Posts, deducts for alternate Capacitors in the Lo-Pass Sections, Upgrading the internal wiring, and Refurbishing the Peerless Tweeters. All prices are for the Pair.
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Hi Ronnie. I worked up the numbers for your Monitor 10s. These prices are based on the photos and information you provided. Schematics for the early Polk Monitors do not exist. There are 4 options with increasing quality of components. In all cases, the existing Mylar, and Electrolytic Capacitors will be replaced with Metalized Polypropylene Capacitors. All Sand Cast Resistors will be replaced with Mills MRA-12 or Mundorf MOX audio grade Resistors. The Fuse Blocks for the Woofers will be removed, however I recommend retaining the Tweeter fuses for protection. In addition, there are options for replacement Binding Posts, deducts for alternate Capacitors in the Lo-Pass Sections, Upgrading the internal wiring, and Refurbishing the Peerless Tweeters. All prices are for the Pair.
Post edited by [Deleted User] on
Comments
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First off I would say that whatever option you choose, it will be a huge improvement over the old components on the crossovers. Second it is going to depend on your budget. A lot of people will go with a higher end cap for the high pass and a lower cost one on the low pass. I have used Clarity ESA, PX, Sonicaps and Daytons in various combinations in my speakers. Like everything else people have their "favorites" and will tend to use what they feel is the best. I would definitely upgrade the binding posts. I have used the imported ones that Dave uses and they are very nice.I have also replaced the internal wiring on all of my Polks and feel it is a good upgrade because the original wiring is pretty poor quality. Hope this helps. Once they are done let them burn in for 250 - 300 hours and you will really enjoy them. Oh and one more thing, this is the beginning of the "rabbit hole". I started with rebuilding my 10's from 1979 a couple of years ago and it has led to: Monitor 4's, Monitor 4.6's, Monitor 5a's, Monitor 7b's, RTA 12c's, and SDA 1c's. I won't even go into amps, tubes etc.
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Thanks Faustin. I read somewhere on another post that he preferred the Clarity ESAs for the Hi-Pass and Dayton 5% for the Lo-Pass. That's probably what I'm gonna go with. Thank for the advice on the binding post. Was actually thinking not touching this to save money but I think i'm going to replace that too now. As for the wiring, I'm still on the fence on that. Maybe I can suggest to Dave about using some scrap wires I have laying around.
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I agree with Faustin, I had Dave do my 10's and used sonicap but this is something you have to think about and decided on your budget, I feel any of the option will be a nice improvement (love my 10's)2 ch- Polk CRS+ * Vincent SA-31MK Preamp * Vincent Sp-331 Amp * Marantz SA8005 SACD * Project Xperience Classic TT * Sumiko Blue Point #2 MC cartridge
HT - Polk 703's * NAD T-758 * Adcom 5503 * Oppo 103 * Samsung 60" series 8 LCD