Pool Automation/Solar

Mikey081057

Just installed a total pool automation/solar heating/salt system. The system itself connects to your home network so you can set/monitor local or remote system parameters and got it setup pretty good so far. My water temp was 64 degrees at 10:00 AM this morning, and I am 72 + at this time..

The variable speed pump is working at about 2/3 capacity running very energy efficiently while it pumps water to the roof panels. Once the temp threshold is reached an automatic valve will stop sending water to the panels and reduce the pump to like 1/2 capacity just to maintain filtration. Lighting and salt/chlorination are also controlled by the system and will keep the pool properly balanced automagically.

Very cool system....

oldrocker

Very cool, 8 degrees in a few hours.
I tried the solar thing, too many clouds here during pool season.
I built a wood fired heating system that works perfect. At full run I can generate about 2000 gallons of hot water every hour. Takes a ton of wood but I got plenty of downed trees.

Mikey081057

I considered this:

Mikey081057

Gaining about 2+ degrees per hour... Also getting some from sun/air/water exchange as it is in the low/mid 80's this afternoon.

GlennDog

It's gonna be minus 10 tonight, not including the wind chill factor . . .
What's your addy? I'm getting on the Red Eye!!!!!!
This chit is old, real old!

G

Mikey081057

Cape Coral FL

damn that is cold

tonyb

oldrocker wrote: »

Very cool, 8 degrees in a few hours.
I tried the solar thing, too many clouds here during pool season.
I built a wood fired heating system that works perfect. At full run I can generate about 2000 gallons of hot water every hour. Takes a ton of wood but I got plenty of downed trees.

Like to hear more on that. One of those outside wood burning sheds that warm passing water and funnels back into the house ? Or something like an added wood burner to a furnace ?

oldrocker

Its similar to an outside wood burner shed device.
The gas grill thing picture you posted is a similar concept on how it works.
I never cared for the propane/copper tubing thing myself for a couple reasons.
1. I'm not going to spend money for LP gas.
2. Copper tubing and chlorine don't play nice together.
3. I prefer about 100' feet of stainless tubing to do the job.

A relative of mine uses an outside wood burning heating system at a boy scout camp he runs to heat his house water and various buildings through out the camp site.

They had to replace the heater last year. I took the old one apart to figure out how it works and if I could alter a type of design to heat my pool. Which I did.

I then scaled it down, changed some of the design features for my needs.
I am able to get the water hotter than what comes out of my tap in the house. I was able to get 190' water out of this thing all from burning wood.

I'm sure some might question that number but when the snow melts here and I open my pool for the season which is usually around middle May, I will take a picture of the thermometer showing the water temp coming from my heater.

In fact I can get the water so hot, I have added a "caution" hot water sticker where the water outlet hose back to the pool is located so the great nieces and nephews don't stick their hands in it.

Be advised, the design from a "visual" aspect is lacking as the design was just an experiment to test functionality. However, I have re-designed the exterior and already purchased the materials for this season to make it nice on the eyes. Still have a few "tweaks" to make also, but I'm getting there.

tonyb

Copper and chlorine don't play nice ?? You do know all tap water is chlorinated and run threw copper pipes all over the country. Pool water may be a different animal due to the higher chlorine content I'm assuming ?

Being a former pool owner myself, both above ground and in-ground, next time I venture into pools it's going to be salt water.

Post some pics when you can, I'm interested in some smaller designs to keep a pond heated during the winter.

Mikey081057

Salt systems are great ... the water doesn't "smell" like chlorine anymore. The salt n the water which is at a lower level than seawater is passed through a reactor that releases the CL in NACL (salt) to "make" chlorine. You have to occasionally add salt to replenish the depleted salt.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Salt_water_chlorination

tonyb

Mikey081057 wrote: »

Salt systems are great ... the water doesn't "smell" like chlorine anymore. The salt n the water which is at a lower level than seawater is passed through a reactor that releases the CL in NACL (salt) to "make" chlorine. You have to occasionally add salt to replenish the depleted salt.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Salt_water_chlorination

Yep, and you know what else is great ? You don't have to battle algae like you do with chlorinated water.

oldrocker

I do run my chlorine a tab bit higher, it alters the ph a tad but all within ok levels for me.

I've never had a salt water pool, been in a few over the years and didn't seem to be an issue either way for me.
As soon as the snow melts, I'll send you some pics.

About 10 years ago, I did a guys house who built his own whole house heating system "engineer at Eli Lilly". He also used it to heat a small pond on his property so the ducks didn't freeze. If I can find the file, I'll pull any info on his heating system and send it to you.

tonyb

Thanks man, appreciate it. Designing one from the start though, that's the ticket. Adding one after the fact is problematic.

steveinaz

Saltwater chlorine generators are great, had one on my pool. No more need for pool baby sitting when you travel; whenever the pump is running, you're chlorinating. Sometimes SWCG's will cause a slight rise in pH, and this is normal--you just adjust as necessary with Muriatic acid. The benefits FAR outweigh the initial expense; easier maintenance, softer water, easier on your eyes and swimsuits, etc.

Tony---You DO NOT ever use copper piping on a pool. You'll end up with copper staining all over your plaster.

steveinaz

The salt, once added, only needs to be replaced due to "splash out" or if you have to do partial drains to reduce calcium levels. Salt doesn't evaporate out. I generally had to add about 4-7 pounds a year, depending on how often my grandkids visited...LOL. A 40lb bag of pool salt is about $8 bucks--to put that in perspective. Your basic 30 x 16 pool (3ft to 6ft) will require about 240lbs of salt on first fill. You generally want about 3400 ppm--but this can vary depending on the salt system you have. BTW, this is about 1/10th the salinity of the ocean, and it more closely matches the salinity of the human eye--which is why traditional chlorine pools make your eyes red/irratated at times.

Mikey--I assume you have a Taylor test kit? Best $65 you'll ever spend.

pearsall001

I've had solar panels on my roof for the past 8yrs heating my above ground 24' pool. It's one of the best investments I've made for sure. I have a separate pump for the system along with having the pool company come out & added another skimmer. I run it on a timer for about 4-5hrs a day depending on how warm I want the water. My wife & in-laws like the water at least 85-88, no problem there at all. I have to be careful though because I've let it reach over 90 by accident. Now that's down right uncomfortable for swimming.

I've thought about the salt water route but the initial expense has me second guessing. I've never had any issues with using chlorine (mostly liquid). Maybe I'll check it out this season.

steveinaz

You can find good/simple salt systems for around $899. Pentair has a cell with computer on-board, then you just need the power box. No fancy bells and whistles, but a good solid product that gets the job done. Don't buy from your pool dealer, they'll charge twice that; just hunt the internet for the best price.

Also, consider these 2 things; 1. The cost of cholrine. 2. When you use pucks, you are constantly adding stabilizer---which can lead to "Chlorine Lock" and a green pool. With a salt system you add your stabilizer seperately to the proper level, then you don't have to worry about it creeping up on you.

Mikey081057

steveinaz wrote: »

The salt, once added, only needs to be replaced due to "splash out" or if you have to do partial drains to reduce calcium levels. Salt doesn't evaporate out. I generally had to add about 4-7 pounds a year, depending on how often my grandkids visited...LOL. A 40lb bag of pool salt is about $8 bucks--to put that in perspective. Your basic 30 x 16 pool (3ft to 6ft) will require about 240lbs of salt on first fill. You generally want about 3400 ppm--but this can vary depending on the salt system you have. BTW, this is about 1/10th the salinity of the ocean, and it more closely matches the salinity of the human eye--which is why traditional chlorine pools make your eyes red/irratated at times.

Mikey--I assume you have a Taylor test kit? Best $65 you'll ever spend.

I have a LaMotte test kit... I had it from the big pool very accurate