XPA-100 Monoblock for center or is this just stupid

I have got an XPA-200 on the fronts. Is it a good idea to add a XPA-100 Monoblock just for the center?
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Comments

  • afterburnt
    afterburnt Posts: 7,892
    That is if I can even find an XPA-100 Monoblock
  • polrbehr
    polrbehr Posts: 2,834
    Stupid? No, but I would say it's a bit of overkill to add a separate amp for your center.
    That Yammy is 110 x 7, and I believe you're using the preouts for the fronts, so that means it's only being asked to drive the center and four surrounds. That AVR should handle all that and more easily.
    So, are you willing to put forth a little effort or are you happy sitting in your skeptical poo pile?


    http://audiomilitia.proboards.com/
  • afterburnt
    afterburnt Posts: 7,892
    How about an XPA-3 on the fronts and center and move the XPA-200 to the sides? Looks like I have the space and the funds. The problem is that some of my sources need the dial turned up in order to equal the output of other sources.
  • polrbehr
    polrbehr Posts: 2,834
    Not sure I understand what you mean there. Equal the output of other sources?
    Adding an amp will give you more headroom and will take some strain off the power supply in the Yamaha (if you want to crank it up to concert levels) , but judging by what's in your sig you should be OK with what you have.
    So, are you willing to put forth a little effort or are you happy sitting in your skeptical poo pile?


    http://audiomilitia.proboards.com/
  • afterburnt
    afterburnt Posts: 7,892
    edited January 2015
    Example: A blue ray disc sounds fine at -20 but the same movie on Netflix needs to be closer to -5 or more to sound the same. There is also variation from one streaming source to another, I have a smart tv and two smart blue rays(3 counting the ps3) hooked up and they all output at different levels. I don't use the built in streaming from the TV because that would probably require turning the volume up into the positive range although the TV streaming would be the most convenient to use.
  • ZLTFUL
    ZLTFUL Posts: 5,652
    Why not use the audio return channel from the TV to "match" the volume of all of your sources?
    "Some people find it easier to be conceited rather than correct."

    "Unwad those panties and have a good time man. We're all here to help each other, no matter how it might appear." DSkip
  • polrbehr
    polrbehr Posts: 2,834
    edited January 2015
    OK, that's what I thought you meant but wasn't sure. If there is a way to control input levels in your Yamaha, you can try to equalize your sources that way, though I don't see the big issue there.
    I have several sources as well (CATV box, PS3, Oppo 103) and a Denon 3312 connecting them all, and while there are differences in sound output between sources, I figured that was just the way things were. I never gave it a thought to try to boost input levels to get them to sound similar at the same volume level, as it seems like they are not really that far apart. And keep In mind, there are going to be some differences between media types even in the same source/player; I have a few Blurays that were obviously engineered on another planet!

    And per your original post, I don't think adding an amp would address that anyway, the amp is only sending out the signal it receives.
    So, are you willing to put forth a little effort or are you happy sitting in your skeptical poo pile?


    http://audiomilitia.proboards.com/
  • mrloren
    mrloren Posts: 2,465
    add the amp if you have the funds. i would just add an XPA-3 or XPA-7.

    i know what you are saying when audio sources require louder volume to sound the same. I hate it when my kid watch Netflix and don't turn down the receiver to -20. I come to watch a BD and the receiver is at -10. The start to Edge of Tomorrow knocked a picture down...
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.
    Family Room:LG QNED80 75", Onkyo RZ50 Emotiva XPA3 GEN3 Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM. Main: Polk LsiM 705Center: Polk LSiM 704CFront High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT Surrounds: Polk S15 Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5
    Bed Room; Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270Main: Polk Signature S20Center: Polk Signature S35Rear: Polk R15 Sub: SVS SB2000
    Working Warehouse; Yamaha A-S301, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc Plok TSX550T SVS PB2000 Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • afterburnt
    afterburnt Posts: 7,892
    Exactly mrloren!

    polrbehr if I can find out how to raise the source output level that would solve the problem. I just don't want to blow something up trying to hear Netflix at the proper level. This BB has got me scared to run close to zero lol. I also sort of want a big fat amp sitting there instead of this puny looking XPA-200 lol.
  • afterburnt
    afterburnt Posts: 7,892
    ZLTFUL wrote: »
    Why not use the audio return channel from the TV to "match" the volume of all of your sources?

    Any idea how to do that?

  • ZLTFUL
    ZLTFUL Posts: 5,652
    As long as you TV is ARC capable (Your Samsung should be):
    http://faq.yamaha.com/us/en/article/audio-visual/av-receivers-amps/rx/rx-v673_black_u/10296/7181/

    The directions are the same for all Yamahas including the Aventage line.
    "Some people find it easier to be conceited rather than correct."

    "Unwad those panties and have a good time man. We're all here to help each other, no matter how it might appear." DSkip
  • afterburnt
    afterburnt Posts: 7,892
    ZLTFUL that is how I have it setup but I don't see how to run anything other that the TV output through the ARC?
  • ZLTFUL
    ZLTFUL Posts: 5,652
    That's just it. Everything gets sent to the TV via HDMI from the ARC HDMI out of your receiver. The audio return channel allows the TV to "return" that signal to the AVR for processing. So instead of your blu ray or your PS3 or your other sources being processed from the individual devices, the only audio signal being processed is the one being processed by your TV. And since the signal is coming from one source (the ARC from the TV) instead of multiple, the levels should be pretty close to identical.
    "Some people find it easier to be conceited rather than correct."

    "Unwad those panties and have a good time man. We're all here to help each other, no matter how it might appear." DSkip
  • afterburnt
    afterburnt Posts: 7,892
    ZLTFUL are you telling me to hook everything up to the TV instead of the AVR?
  • tonyb
    tonyb Posts: 32,981
    afterburnt wrote: »
    ZLTFUL are you telling me to hook everything up to the TV instead of the AVR?

    No, I wouldn't do that.
    HT SYSTEM-
    Sony 850c 4k
    Pioneer elite vhx 21
    Sony 4k BRP
    SVS SB-2000
    Polk Sig. 20's
    Polk FX500 surrounds

    Cables-
    Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
    Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
    Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
    Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable

    Kitchen

    Sonos zp90
    Grant Fidelity tube dac
    B&k 1420
    lsi 9's
  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,988
    ZLTFUL wrote: »
    ...use the audio return channel from the TV to "match" the volume of all of your sources?
    I like the idea. Do HDMI ARCs return what it receives? (e.g. DD) My TV's Optical Out (OO) outputs DPL2 while my cable box &/or BD player output DD.
    Apologies still running last century's signal tech. Eyeing HDMI 1.3+ prepro for tax refund (Outlaw 975?)
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
    Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s
  • ZLTFUL
    ZLTFUL Posts: 5,652
    I give up. Apparently, I am speaking some foreign language and posted a link to something in ancient Aramaic.
    "Some people find it easier to be conceited rather than correct."

    "Unwad those panties and have a good time man. We're all here to help each other, no matter how it might appear." DSkip
  • afterburnt
    afterburnt Posts: 7,892
    Thanks for trying to help. My head just exploded again.
  • afterburnt
    afterburnt Posts: 7,892
    Gp4jesus as far as I can see any audio signal that goes into the TV will be sent back to the AVR via the HDMI ARC. As far as audio signals going into the AVR then out to the TV and then back again to the AVR to be output to the speakers. I have yet to find the setting that will do that. All that I have is the TV audio going back through the ARC to the AVR.
  • polrbehr
    polrbehr Posts: 2,834
    afterburnt wrote: »
    Exactly mrloren!

    polrbehr if I can find out how to raise the source output level that would solve the problem. I just don't want to blow something up trying to hear Netflix at the proper level. This BB has got me scared to run close to zero lol. I also sort of want a big fat amp sitting there instead of this puny looking XPA-200 lol.

    Check the link ZLTFUL included, it seems right in line with what you're trying to do.

    If you want to add an amp to your system, go for it. I was not trying to discourage anyone from doing so, the increase in power (headroom) would be beneficial. Rather, I was trying to spare you what would likely be disappointment when it did not help you with your original issue.

    I stream Netflix wirelessly from a PS3 > Denon 3312 via HDMI, and can say that at -15 I would be hard pressed to hear anyone else in the house at that level. I have only listened to my system once at 0 (the intro to 2112 from the R30 DVD) for about 30 seconds before it got annoying. Not harsh or clipped, just LOUD lol. And that is without any external amps in my system.




    So, are you willing to put forth a little effort or are you happy sitting in your skeptical poo pile?


    http://audiomilitia.proboards.com/
  • afterburnt
    afterburnt Posts: 7,892
    polrbehr as I said above I have that set on the AVR the TV does sends it's audio out through the ARC to the AVR however I can not figure out how to get audio from any of the peripherals connected to the AVR into and back out of the TV to the AVR like ZLTFUL has suggested. That is if I am reading him correctly. Thanks for the help but I think I will just take a hooligan tool to my AV equipment and curl up with a good book, naked in the fetal position under the coffee table wet myself whimper and tremble for a while. %^(
  • afterburnt
    afterburnt Posts: 7,892
    Instead of having the above stated meltdown I've ordered an XPA-3. I know that it wont resolve the issue but I feel better now lol.
  • mrloren
    mrloren Posts: 2,465

    what are you going to do with your XPA-200?
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.
    Family Room:LG QNED80 75", Onkyo RZ50 Emotiva XPA3 GEN3 Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM. Main: Polk LsiM 705Center: Polk LSiM 704CFront High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT Surrounds: Polk S15 Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5
    Bed Room; Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270Main: Polk Signature S20Center: Polk Signature S35Rear: Polk R15 Sub: SVS SB2000
    Working Warehouse; Yamaha A-S301, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc Plok TSX550T SVS PB2000 Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • mrloren
    mrloren Posts: 2,465
    Trade you a CSi5 for it
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.
    Family Room:LG QNED80 75", Onkyo RZ50 Emotiva XPA3 GEN3 Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM. Main: Polk LsiM 705Center: Polk LSiM 704CFront High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT Surrounds: Polk S15 Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5
    Bed Room; Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270Main: Polk Signature S20Center: Polk Signature S35Rear: Polk R15 Sub: SVS SB2000
    Working Warehouse; Yamaha A-S301, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc Plok TSX550T SVS PB2000 Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • Polkie2009
    Polkie2009 Posts: 3,834
    edited January 2015
    Good luck with the Emotiva.
  • Polkie2009
    Polkie2009 Posts: 3,834
    afterburnt wrote: »
    Instead of having the above stated meltdown I've ordered an XPA-3. I know that it wont resolve the issue but I feel better now lol.
    Have you tried the Emotiva forum for any help?

  • afterburnt
    afterburnt Posts: 7,892
    mrloren I am going to hook it up to the surrounds for the time being I will eventually use it for a second zone. Thanks for the offer but i am going to keep it.

    Polkie2009 no I haven't but I will try it.
  • trj
    trj Posts: 320
    mrloren wrote: »
    Trade you a CSi5 for it

    Are planning to sell the CSi5? I thought you were going to keep it after reading your other thread. I would be interested if the price is right and you are nearby. Shoot me a PM.

    Sorry, OP didn't mean to derail the thread.
    I have similar problem too. Netflix, youtube and radio are fine but the volume from OTA signals for TV (fed through co-ax) is low. I have to bring the receiver rx-v667 to -20db, while all other sources sound pretty good at -30db. Unfortunately, my cheapo TV doesnt have ARC to test.
    I have set my AVR to -30db at start up so I don't go boom when I turn on the radio, BD or netflix. I have Xsight touch remote, so I can get to all the activities with a single button. Helps my volume issue as I usually turn off everything(one button) before going to bed, thats usually TV+receiver at -20db. And I turn ON the receiver or receiver change input to HDMI 1+ netflix/pandora (BD player) or just receiver +change input to radio (one button) in the morning. I would hate the radio to start at -20db at the morning, so setting the default at -30db has worked well for me.
    Sorry, its not a solution but a work around.
    Sony BDP-S6500 | Raspberry Pi 2 | XBOX One S | Wii --> Yamaha RX-V667 --> Adcom 5006 bridged to 175 watts for front LCR -- >Front: Polk Audio RTi8s | Center: CSi5 | Side Surrounds: RTi4s | Rear surrounds: FXiA4s | Cheap 12" sub woofer|Samsung UN60KU6300
  • afterburnt
    afterburnt Posts: 7,892
    trj that will solve the problem of blasting myself thanks
  • trj
    trj Posts: 320
    Yah, I would highly recommend Xsight touch universal remote and read up on RMIR to program it. I ordered one from ebay for about $35. Touch screen and can control 18 devices. Wife is super happy that she doesnt have to rumble through the cluster of remotes on the coffee table and I don't have to teach her every time.
    Sony BDP-S6500 | Raspberry Pi 2 | XBOX One S | Wii --> Yamaha RX-V667 --> Adcom 5006 bridged to 175 watts for front LCR -- >Front: Polk Audio RTi8s | Center: CSi5 | Side Surrounds: RTi4s | Rear surrounds: FXiA4s | Cheap 12" sub woofer|Samsung UN60KU6300