Amplifier question.....

shawn474
shawn474 Posts: 3,052
edited January 2015 in The Clubhouse
I just rearranged the rig to put all components in a tv stand. I wanted to clean up the clutter, put everything in one place and do some cable management. I feel like i accomplished most of that and am happy with the app rearrange. I put my new to me b&k av5000 series II amplifier in the top left cubby in the attached picture.
kzenro8r9pdw.jpg


My previous amp (same amp but series I) was stored on an open air shelf and ran pretty hot as I hear all b&k amps do. I am a little worried about the heat as it seems to get pretty hot in the cubby. I leave the amp on all the time. As a reference, i have about 1.75 inches of clearance on the top and over 2.5 inches on each side.


I guess I have 3 questions:
1. Should I be worried about the heat?
2. If so, would installing a cooling fan be appropriate to run constantly? Or is there such thing as a fan that has a thermostat that will kick on once the cabinet temp reaches a certain point?
3. Is there a way to wire the amp so that it turns on and off with the AVR? My hope is that there is some way to do this as it would give the amp some "rest" and allow it to cool while not in use.

My other thought was to simply drill equally spaced holes in the side of the cabinet and cover with a decorative mesh (like the doors on salamander racks). It was a cheap enough tv stand that I don't mind doing that and think I could make it look pretty nice.


I didn't think about the heat issue until I had the tv on and watching it for awhile and reached in to reroute a wire. It wasn't HOT but the warmth was definitely noticeable. Thanks in advance for any input.

Shawn
Shawn
AVR: Marantz SR-5011
Center Channel: Polk LsiM706c
Front: Polk LsiM703
Rear: LSI fx
Subwoofer: SVS 20-39pci
Television: Samsung UN58NU7100FXZA
DVD Player: Sony PS4

Comments

  • nooshinjohn
    nooshinjohn Posts: 25,463
    I don't see any worries with just setting it up and leaving this as they are. As long as you are putting the BK at the top left, you will be fine.
    The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD

    “When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson
  • First all the amp is overkill and you should sell it to me quickly. Not sure how "hot" your heat is but heat as I am sure you know not good for electronics. Does the manual suggest minimum clearances?

    I did buy a fan off amazon for my Oinker 5007 after the dreaded hdmi fail that runs off thermostat and is quiet but not sure they my brand is made any more.

    I thought the series II has the 12v trigger so you might be able to cycle it with the avr.

    Good luck and feel free to pm me your Paypal addy ;) nice piece!
  • shawn474
    shawn474 Posts: 3,052
    edited January 2015
    Ok so sounds like a fan might work. But can't get over the thought that keeping it powered on all the time is bad for it. I don't think this amp has a 12 volt trigger. I will have to recheck tomorrow. If it does it's an easy fix with one cable.....

    If not would something like one of these work? Or am I over thinking this?
    amazon.com/Niles-CS12V-Current-sensing-12-volt-trigger/dp/B004TW23TQ

    forums.stevehoffman.tv/threads/diy-12v-trigger-outlet-to-automatically-power-on-off-devices.313534/
    Shawn
    AVR: Marantz SR-5011
    Center Channel: Polk LsiM706c
    Front: Polk LsiM703
    Rear: LSI fx
    Subwoofer: SVS 20-39pci
    Television: Samsung UN58NU7100FXZA
    DVD Player: Sony PS4
  • Thorton
    Thorton Posts: 1,324
    Go to Coolerguys.com. They sell a temperature controlled unit (not too expensive) with a probe you can place on top of the amp. You can manually adjust what temperature you want the fans to come on and off at.
    _____________________________________________________________________________________________
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    Source: Roon via ethernet to DAC interface
    DAC: Bricasti M1SE
    Pre/Pro: Marantz AV8805
    Tube Preamp Buffer: Tortuga TPB.V1
    Amp1: Nord One NC1200DM Signature, Amp2: W4S MC-5, AMP3: W4S MMC-7
    Front: Salk SoundScape 8's, Center: Salk SoundScape C7
    Surround: Polk FXIA6, Surround Back: Polk RTIA9, Atmos: Polk 70-RT
    Subs: 2 - Rythmik F25's
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  • maximillian
    maximillian Posts: 2,144
    I have my AVR trigger this via 12V.

    http://www.belkin.com/IWCatProductPage.process?Product_Id=443690

    The output outlets are banked and can be selected which ones you want triggered. Then connect the amp to the triggered outlet. It also provides surge protection so it's good to have for a general setup. You can hook up AC fans if you need.

    I've got this furniture for my living room. It has Pio Elite SC-5. No separate amp but there's a bunch of other electronics. It's spacious enough that it doesn't get warm inside. By the way, the center shelf above the drawers fits an LSiC perfectly!

    http://www.bestbuy.com/site/kathy-ireland-bradley-tv-stand/4766715.p?id=1218523220973&skuId=4766715
  • shawn474
    shawn474 Posts: 3,052
    I like that Belkin but its way out of my price range......I am looking at this model surge protector.
    amazon.com/Panamax-M8-AV-PRO-Management-Discontinued-Manufacturer/dp/B0030TWBPU


    The way I interpret is if I plug my AVR into one of the plugs labelled 1-4, it will act as the "master control". I would connect the 12 volt trigger cable from the AVR to the Surge Protector. Then plug the amplifier and any other component that I want to turn on with the AVR into plugs 5-8. That way, when I turn on the AVR, the 12volt current will trigger the amplifier to power on. Am i correct in this assumption. I really think that temperature isn't an issue per se, but would like to power it down automatically when not in use to cool down and not keep a constant temp in the cabinet if that makes any sense. Thoughts?
    Shawn
    AVR: Marantz SR-5011
    Center Channel: Polk LsiM706c
    Front: Polk LsiM703
    Rear: LSI fx
    Subwoofer: SVS 20-39pci
    Television: Samsung UN58NU7100FXZA
    DVD Player: Sony PS4
  • shawn474
    shawn474 Posts: 3,052
    So i got everything today and installed this evening. I used the coolerguys recommended above and contacted them tomake sure it was sufficient. Glen at coolerguys was AWESOME! I installed it in the back of the cabinet behind the amp and had it blow out the rear to exhaust the hot air as he suggested. I plugged that into the switched outlet of my receiver. Now whenever the avr turns on so does the fan. It is very quiet too.

    Next i mounted the panamax on the wall behind the cabinet. Plugged the avr into plug 1. Ran a mono cable for 12v trigger from back of avr into the surge protector. Plugged the amplifier into plug 5 of the panamax. Now when i turn the avr on the amp goes on and same happens to power off.

    All in all i couldnt be happier with both purchases. Both companies were very helpful over the phone and helped me make sure i was purchasing what was needed for my application. Very happy with the quality of the products, the helpfulness of the companies and the results that i got.
    Shawn
    AVR: Marantz SR-5011
    Center Channel: Polk LsiM706c
    Front: Polk LsiM703
    Rear: LSI fx
    Subwoofer: SVS 20-39pci
    Television: Samsung UN58NU7100FXZA
    DVD Player: Sony PS4
  • drumminman
    drumminman Posts: 3,396
    Leaving it on all the time is probably less stressful than cycling it on and off. Many amp manufacturers put the on-off switch on the back panel since their recommendation is to only turn it off if you won't be using it for an extended period of time, electrical storms in the area, etc.

    The cooling fan with the temperature probe mentioned above sounds like a good idea.
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
  • shawn474
    shawn474 Posts: 3,052
    I may go ahead and remove the 12v trigger. The fan alone seems to be taking care of the heat issue. These little fans are very quiet and work surprisingly well. Before I could feel the heat coming out of the cabinet. Now it feels MUCH cooler. I don't have the fan with the temperature sensor; I plug it into the switched outlet of the AVR to run when the AVR is on. I don't hear it at all and the materials are high quality. The ONLY complaint that I have is when plugging in the pigtal connector it puched one of the pins out of place and through the back of the connector. It still makes enough contact to work but makes me nervous about a possible short. I may just clip the pigtail out and hardwire the fan to the plug bypassing the pigtail. I have emailed coolerguys to let them know (after some research it seems to be pretty common). Ordered the fan through amazon so not sure if I have to return through Amazon or if coolerguys will just send a replacement. I have been impressed with their service so either way i am sure it will get worked out.
    Shawn
    AVR: Marantz SR-5011
    Center Channel: Polk LsiM706c
    Front: Polk LsiM703
    Rear: LSI fx
    Subwoofer: SVS 20-39pci
    Television: Samsung UN58NU7100FXZA
    DVD Player: Sony PS4
  • shawn474
    shawn474 Posts: 3,052
    well, it seems that the amp is NOT turning on and off with the avr.......I was mistaken because the light was out there really was no way to know. I got around to fixing the light and it stays on constantly even with the 12 volt trigger cable connected to the surge protector. I went through the setup menu and activated the 12 volt trigger on the avr. After testing it didn't work - meaning the amp stayed on all the time regardless of avr. Reading through my manual for the pioneer vsx94txh it seems that the 12 volt trigger will only work with components that have a standby mode. The amp only has the push button on/off. Is there a work around for this or am I S.O.L. Trying to get the amp to turn on and off with the avr?
    Shawn
    AVR: Marantz SR-5011
    Center Channel: Polk LsiM706c
    Front: Polk LsiM703
    Rear: LSI fx
    Subwoofer: SVS 20-39pci
    Television: Samsung UN58NU7100FXZA
    DVD Player: Sony PS4
  • shawn474
    shawn474 Posts: 3,052
    edited January 2015
    nbrowser wrote: »
    Try testing it with the amplifiers power switch in the OFF position. The 12V trigger might hit a relay inside the amp to close and internal power switch.

    I tried that too. Didnt work. It's weird, the surge protector has a green light by the 12 volt trigger. Once I plug the cable into it the light goes out - almost seems like the cable trips the signal.
    -
    The other thing I think might work is this:

    If I use this cable:

    nbsk3xl1yh6s.jpg

    to plug into the 12 volt trigger output of avr to control in jack behind the amp pictured here:

    4cxc4wohmdxj.jpg


    and then press the "ENABLE" button. From my guess that would only power on the amp when the signal is transferred. Am I correct in my guess here? Just trying to get feedback beofre I fry anything hooking it up wrong.

    rca.jpg 57.4K
    B&k.JPG 152.5K
    Post edited by shawn474 on
    Shawn
    AVR: Marantz SR-5011
    Center Channel: Polk LsiM706c
    Front: Polk LsiM703
    Rear: LSI fx
    Subwoofer: SVS 20-39pci
    Television: Samsung UN58NU7100FXZA
    DVD Player: Sony PS4
  • devani
    devani Posts: 1,497
    that sound right...the button is not pushed "IN" position and the plugged into the CTRL IN...

    why is your LEVEL 1 is not same as the others?
    Video: LG 55LN5100/Samsung LNT4065F
    Receiver: HK AVR445
    Source: OPPO BDP-93
    HT: POLK SPEAKERS RTi6, FXi3, CSi5, VTF-3 MK2
    2Ch system: MC2105, AR-XA, AR-2A, AR9, BX-300, OPPO BDP-83
  • shawn474
    shawn474 Posts: 3,052
    Thats not my amp; just generic picture off the intraweb to illustrate my question.
    Shawn
    AVR: Marantz SR-5011
    Center Channel: Polk LsiM706c
    Front: Polk LsiM703
    Rear: LSI fx
    Subwoofer: SVS 20-39pci
    Television: Samsung UN58NU7100FXZA
    DVD Player: Sony PS4
  • shawn474
    shawn474 Posts: 3,052
    Got it fixed and working......12 volt trigger (3.5mm end) from AVR to rca "ctrl in" to amp with button in the enable position. All is well and might see a few cents a month improvement on the electric bill!!!! ;)
    Shawn
    AVR: Marantz SR-5011
    Center Channel: Polk LsiM706c
    Front: Polk LsiM703
    Rear: LSI fx
    Subwoofer: SVS 20-39pci
    Television: Samsung UN58NU7100FXZA
    DVD Player: Sony PS4