Polk Audio Sda Crs+ Problem
Crocrippler
Posts: 5
Hey guys Im new to this community but happy I found it. I have two vintage pairs of Polks. A pair of Monitor 5 series 2 and the Sda Crs+ one tweeter ones. My question is about the SDAs. I had them set up to my Realistic Sta2100d with a pair of klipsch kf28. Had all four channels running A+B and it sounded amazing. Now all of a sudden the right side tweeter on the sda starts crackling/ popping at higher volume. Tried them by themself same thing. Tried just the klipsch doesn' t do it. Any idea what it could be? The tweeter or crossover? The left side one plays flawlessly. Any help would b greatly appreciated.
Comments
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Switch tweeters around & see if it follows that tweeter. That might be a good starting point..
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Had all four channels running A+B and it sounded amazing.
Don't do that again, that receiver doesn't have the guts to drive 4 speakers at any volume without running into issues, which you have discovered. Besides, you have 2 very different speakers with very different sound signatures, which despite your impression, never sounds good when you get down to it.
Properly set up and powered, your SDA's will provide a realistic sound stage without the need for an extra set of speakers. How do you have them set up? Do you have the SDA cable?
Your tweeter problem is either a bad polyswitch (on the crossover) or you cooked the tweeter. Swap the tweeters as boston1450 suggests.
Political Correctness'.........defined
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President of Club Polk -
Kinda had me wondering - at high volumes & running 2 sets of speakers = bad news. Those CRS's are crying..
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That amp is 125 watts a channel of old school power should be enough power? I switched the tweeter and it doesn't follow the tweeter so it must be something inside? How would you change the polyswitch?
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Also yes I have the sda cable. Have them approximately 12 feet apart facing forward about half foot from the back wall.
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If it's the same as on the 2Bs it's the blue looking round top resistor on the bottom of the x-over . Desolder and replace w/ Mills 2.5 resistor from PE or any store of your choosing resolder and if that was the problem then it's done. 12 ' on the spred might be a bit to far but I'm not the SDA expert. Do not run multiple sets, I can and I don't.2chl- Adcom GFA- 555-Onkyo P-3150v pre/amp- JVC-QL-A200 tt- Denon 1940 ci cdp- Adcom GFS-6 -Modded '87 SDA 2Bs - Dynamat Ext.- BH-5- X-Overs VR-3, RDO-194 tweeters, Larry's Rings, Speakon/Neutrik I/C- Cherry stain tops Advent Maestros,Ohm model E
H/T- Toshiba au40" flat- Yamaha RX- V665 avr- YSD-11 Dock- I-Pod- Klipsch #400HD Speaker set-
Bdrm- Nikko 6065 receiver- JBL -G-200s--Pioneer 305 headphones--Sony CE375-5 disc -
Crocrippler wrote: »That amp is 125 watts a channel of old school power should be enough power? I switched the tweeter and it doesn't follow the tweeter so it must be something inside? How would you change the polyswitch?
It's 120wpc not that 5 watts makes much difference here. The issue is the power supply, the D version was stripped of the superior toroidal transformer used in the 2100. Regardless, you can't drive 4 speakers at higher volume levels without running into issues, clipping being the major concern.
The polyswitch is on the top side of the crossover board, marked S1 on the board. It will be either blue or mustard colored. The part number is RDE050A.
Since you using a receiver, I strongly suggest that you do not replace the poly with a .5 ohm resistor (the 2.5 ohm suggestion is wrong).
12 feet apart is too far, 6 to 8 feet is ideal.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Wouldnt running 6ohm & 8ohm speakers with a receiver at the same time pose a problem ? I thought i understood you could run 4 same ohm 4channel/quad..
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If you were using 4 of those Klipsch speakers it probably wouldn't be much of an issue as their efficiency is likely in the high 90's, so not much power is required to get them to play loud. The CRS+ are rated at 90dB, so a lot more power is required to drive them to high levels.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
CRS's are 6 ohm arent they ? Those Klipsch are 8 ohm i do believe. Just had me wondering if that could be another issue that may lead to other issues. I realize 120+- wpc is doable for one set of speakers OR 2 sets (4) of efficient speakers
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Crocrippler wrote: »
Since you using a receiver, I strongly suggest that you do not replace the poly with a .5 ohm resistor (the 2.5 ohm suggestion is wrong).
12 feet apart is too far, 6 to 8 feet is ideal.
+ 1 on distance for best SDA effect..... So what should he use ? Can they be bypassed ?.. -
CRS's are 6 ohm arent they ? Those Klipsch are 8 ohm i do believe. Just had me wondering if that could be another issue that may lead to other issues.
Not really a factor, the difference isn't big enough. The efficiency difference matters more in this case.So what should he use ?
New polyswitches.
Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Thanks guys for the answers and help. Don't think I want to play with the crossovers. Any recommendations of anyone in Canada or US to do the upgrade?
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Crocrippler wrote: »Thanks guys for the answers and help. Don't think I want to play with the crossovers. Any recommendations of anyone in Canada or US to do the upgrade?
Four solder joints with reasonable access = piece of cake. (TWO solder joints, if you're only going to "fix" the one defective speaker)
If you insist on subcontracting; ANYONE with soldering experience can do this; including any local TV/radio/stereo repair shop--or any DIY electronics enthusiast.
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'BYE, BRUNO!
LOL
Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Agree 100% with Jesse. Replacement of polyswitches with a resistor is only advisable in situations where you have a quality amplifier with loads of headroom, where you risk blowing out your eardrums sooner than you'd make your amp start clipping. With a Realistic receiver, polyswitches should still be utilized. The existing ones should be replaced with new polyswitches not resistors.Good music, a good source, and good power can make SDA's sing. Tubes make them dance.
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[/quote] i read that. What size should be used ? And should both be done to match/or replace to factory specs ?
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