10B tweeter and midrange

dbp

With a new amp, I have decided to clean up the sound on one of my 10Bs that has been scratchy and fuzzy on the high end for probably a couple of years. On the speaker in question, one of the midrange speakers has a partially collapsed dust cap over the voice coil? Does this indicate a problem? I think the main problem is the tweeter, but it is hard to distinguish. Any way to test for differentiating between tweeter and midrange? Seems ironic in that this is the speaker in which the SL2000 was replaced in 1994 after my purchase in 1987; the other 10B seems fine.

soundfreak1

Switch mid drivers or tweets and see if sound issues follow the switch. This will tell you which speaker is the issue.the dust cap shouldn't effect sound as long as dust hasn't gotten in to the coil. It is after all there to stop dust from getting into the coil.

Mystery

Either get one used SL2000.
Or get two better replacement tweeters RDO194 and sell the one good SL2000.
Or upgrade to RDO198 with additional crossover component (I guess they can be upgraded).

teekay0007

dbp - An easy way to check the tweeter out, without having to swap them between the two cabinets, is to listen to it up close through a toilet paper roll that's up against your ear. Start at a very low volume and increase it slowly. If there's any scratchiness in the tweeter's output, you should be able to detect it pretty easily.
-
If this doesn't work for you, let the swapping begin!

Faustin

You can find used SL2000 tweets around if you want to replace just the one. You can upgrade both tweets to the RDO-194 from Polk customer service. About $100 shipped for 2. Tell them you are a Club Polk member. I think it is the tweeter. If it was me, I would remove the 4 screws holding the tweeter in, disconnect the 2 wires and switch them from one speaker to the other. Start there to determine if it is the tweeter. Takes about 5 minutes to do.

ken brydson

dbp wrote: »

Can anyone tell me about the relative performance of the SL2000 and the RDO194 tweeters? Would it upgrade the sound to go with two new RDO194s?

General consensus is YES!!!

soundfreak1

I have used both and upgraded to the 194's. The 194's are much better. But it is a rabbit hole leading to cap upgrades, wire upgrades, risistor upgrades ect, ect, ect.if u like the 10's and the money is available do it or spend less and get some Rta 12 B's or c's and have much better sound and then spent on them. Just a thought!

soundfreak1

Pretty straight forward, unsolder a cap solder in new one. Same with resistors. You have the sched so all values u need to order r in front of you. Step by step threads are available here on several threads if you search them out, with suggestions on other mods available. A ton of info here and there on the site.

dbp

Soundfreak1: I assume that by "switching" you mean to remove the tweeter and to use the tweeter from the other 10B. Correct? Is this as easy as removing the screws from the front of the midrange or tweeter and disconnecting the wiring? Thanks.

soundfreak1

Yes. Disconect the rear wires and move the entire assembly. Much easier that way. If You Are unsure, do the drivers instead but the 4 screws for the tweets removes the entire tweet and is real easy to switch out.

dbp

Soundfreak1: Back to you again. If I determine that I have a tweeter issue with an SL2000, do you know if those are available or if there is a replacement? If it is a replacement, I assume that would mean replacing the tweeters in both 10Bs.

dbp

Can anyone tell me about the relative performance of the SL2000 and the RDO194 tweeters? Would it upgrade the sound to go with two new RDO194s?

dbp

Soundfreak1: Are you saying that to upgrade to RDO194s it will be necessary to upgrade many other things (capacitors, resistors, wiring), or simply that I will want to do so after the new tweeters?

teekay0007

dbp wrote: »

or simply that I will want to do so after the new tweeters?

This.

soundfreak1

dbp wrote: »

Soundfreak1: Are you saying that to upgrade to RDO194s it will be necessary to upgrade many other things (capacitors, resistors, wiring), or simply that I will want to do so after the new tweeters?

they are old caps, newer ones are much better sounding. My philosophy is while doing some upgrades might as well do all whilst in there.the improvements are substantial.hence the rabbit hole, (its only money) In For A Penny In For A Pound Kinda Thing.This Is The Main Thing With "vintage" speakers, they usually need some restoration to be "at there best" and after all we want them at there best! LOL!

dbp

Okay, if the bug bites me and I want to upgrade caps, wires, etc. while replacing the tweeters, where do I find the information and the parts? Electronics are not my primary skill, but for my first receiver I did build a Heathkit. However, that came with a step-by-step manual. I have downloaded the 10B schematics that are on this site, but that is not going to help me get the job done.

dbp

I inadvertently asked this question in another thread, a wrong thread as I was reminded.

I am going to replace my SL2000s with the RDO194s. I am not yet ready to tackle a crossover rebuild. But I have seen information that indicates that the Polyswitch (the SafetyGuard Tweeter Protection per the insert in my Instruction Manual in 1987) is itself a problem, often causing some distortion.

My question is: can/should something be done about the Polyswitch when changing out my tweeters, or am I stuck with it if I do not do a crossover rebuild?

Interesting information: although I purchased my 10Bs in 1987, the schematics on the website do not indicate a drawing including them until May 17, 1989 which was stamped approved on June 12, 1989.