PSW303 Subwoofer Interconnect Cable
gordonmp
Posts: 2
What's with all of the hub-bub on subwoofer interconnects?
I'm putting a PSW303 behind my rear-projection HDTV (Hitachi 57XWX20B) and I'm unsure what cable to use.
Questions:
1) Does a sub cable really matter?
2) Does a $100 cable perform that much better than a $50 or even a $30 cable?
3) Can someone recommend an appropriate cable?
For what it's worth, my system consists of:
Receiver: Denon AVR-3802
Fronts: Polk RTi100
TV as Center: Hitachi 57XWX20B (the match surprised me too)
Surrounds: Polk RC65i
Sub: Polk PSW303
I'm putting a PSW303 behind my rear-projection HDTV (Hitachi 57XWX20B) and I'm unsure what cable to use.
Questions:
1) Does a sub cable really matter?
2) Does a $100 cable perform that much better than a $50 or even a $30 cable?
3) Can someone recommend an appropriate cable?
For what it's worth, my system consists of:
Receiver: Denon AVR-3802
Fronts: Polk RTi100
TV as Center: Hitachi 57XWX20B (the match surprised me too)
Surrounds: Polk RC65i
Sub: Polk PSW303
---Home Theater Audio Gear---
Receiver: Denon AVR-3802
DVD: Denon DVD-900 w/ Faroudja
CD: Denon DCM-370
Fronts: Polk RTi100
HDTV as Center: Hitachi 57XWX20B
Surrounds: Polk RC65i
Sub: Polk PSW303
Receiver: Denon AVR-3802
DVD: Denon DVD-900 w/ Faroudja
CD: Denon DCM-370
Fronts: Polk RTi100
HDTV as Center: Hitachi 57XWX20B
Surrounds: Polk RC65i
Sub: Polk PSW303
Post edited by gordonmp on
Comments
-
Gordon, what's with it is just more of the high-price hogwash that infects so much of audio. The sub cable has possibly the easiest job in all of audio; it carries no power, just audio signals from about 20-100Hz. The factor that might be significant is that it should be shielded enough to reject EMI(electro-magnetic interference)which could be heard as a hum in the sub. For this reason a coaxial cable, which is well-shielded by design, is often suggested for use.
Nothing near the prices you mention is necessary, and for example if you need a six foot cable something like this is fine. -
If you would like to determine yourself whether its "hogwash" or reality, sign up for this.....
Polk Audio Forum - Cable Demo Program
Take some time and demo something for your own objective opinion, instead of someone else's opinion.
I just use a Monster Cable MB300, it will be replaced eventually, but it's really not a high priority.CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint. -
I have these:
Sub Cables from Blue Jeans Cables
I needed two 35 ft. cables. The prices were not bad...;) -
All of the above are great suggestions. If you go absolutely as cheap as possible, whatever brand you are considering, get the 'video' cable version - (as in the Dayton link above). In most entry level cables, you will usually find the video cable offers the most shielding, which can be a good thing, esp on a long(er) run.
Check out www.signalcable.com , and tell Frank you are Club Polk member to receive a small discount on custom made to order, proven cables.
Additionally, to familarize yourself with some different manufacturers and price points, check out Audioadvisor.com. Fair prices, and a wide selection.
Bottom line, you don't HAVE to spend a lot, but you should spend a little.
Cheers,
RussCheck your lips at the door woman. Shake your hips like battleships. Yeah, all the white girls trip when I sing at Sunday service. -
Great advice! You should use a well sheilded cable especially if your going to put the sub behind the TV,you will have ac line noise & rf. You probably have other cables even ac cables back there.
-
We had a 61" Samsung RPTV that was destroyed by my Velodyne. It was placed very close to the set. Over about a month, I noticed convergence was getting further and further off. Then one night, crash! The mirror broke loose from while watching Independence Day. A very expensive mistake. With our current unit, even though the sub is several feet away, you can still see the screen flex in and out, if the set is off, and the sub is thumping. Being that the 303 is only an 8", you might not have a problem. But just the same, they were never meant to stand up to any type of heavy vibration.
As far as cables go, it is after all, just a sub. Get whatever your budget allows. Just stay away from the $6.00 Radio Shack spaghetti specialGo BIG or go home! -
considering you have a fairly modest subwoofer you should really not spend more than like 20-30 bucks MAX on a sub cable. Oops I was about to recommend acoustic research cables but they went out of business. Look for the thickest, cheapest cable you can find that is made by a no-name company (i.e. not monster) and save yourself some money on something that you will not be able to notice for the most part.
Please understand that I am not criticizing you for having a modest subwoofer; I started out with no subwoofer. I am just saying that it makes sense to match the appropriate level of cable performance/cost with the speaker it is being used on. -
Definetely don't go CHEAP. Make sure you get an adequate connection and roll with it. If you'd like inexpensive try MonsterCable Interconnect or THX; they're not bad for now and you can get them MUCH cheaper brand new on EBay.