Need spikes, but my 1.2TLs are different
Okay, I need to get two sets of spikes so I can replace the furniture glides as the bass brace is not an option right now. The only issues is that no one seems to know why my 1.2TLs have rails that are attached to the bottom and extend out the front and back in what seems to be for stability. I have found Polk sells replacement spikes, but if they were designed for the threaded holes in the corners as show in pics, I'm not shure they'll fit the threaded holes in the bottom end of each rail. Can use the holes in the cabinet the rails use as they are too far in to be stable with just spikes or glides.
Anyway, if anyone knows why mine have rails and if the spikes will fit them, I'd greatly appriciate it. I'm attached a pic of the rails as seen from the front. Not in the mood tilt one of the bad boys to get a full pic. Might be able to when someone else is here to help.
Thanks
Anyway, if anyone knows why mine have rails and if the spikes will fit them, I'd greatly appriciate it. I'm attached a pic of the rails as seen from the front. Not in the mood tilt one of the bad boys to get a full pic. Might be able to when someone else is here to help.
Thanks
Driver carries only 20 dollars in ammunition
Pedestrians have the right of way, unless they are in the way
Pedestrians have the right of way, unless they are in the way
Post edited by tugboat on
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There are many sources for spikes that come with threaded inserts that you can install yourself closer to the corners. If you go that route be sure the old holes do not go though into the cabinet. You want to keep the cabinet sealed, no air leaks.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
I kind of like the rails as it makes them more stable. Being in earthquake country, that's a plus!
Not to mention I really don't want to start drilling into the cabinet for a number reasons.
I think I'll unscrew one of the glides and get the size and thread pitch. May I can then find spikes that will fit.
Hey, quick question since you seem to know a bit about Polk stuff.
I have the CS350 and was wondering if I put a SL3000 in place of the SL6000 if that would more closely match the 1.2? I'm not very up on crossovers and other stuff, so I don't know if that would be an issue in swapping them.
Thanks!Driver carries only 20 dollars in ammunition
Pedestrians have the right of way, unless they are in the way -
I am thinking somebody who know what they doing, made those rails to be monted to the speaker using the the "stock" theaded inserts? So all you need to do is remove the screw or bolt attaching it to the speaker and screw in the correct spike,
just an idea.Dodd - Battery Preamp
Monarchy Audio SE100 Delux - mono power amps
Sony DVP-NS999ES - SACD player
ADS 1230 - Polk SDA 2B
DIY Stereo Subwoofer towers w/(4) 12 drivers each
Crown K1 - Subwoofer amp
Outlaw ICBM - crossover
Beringher BFD - sub eq
Where is the remote? Where is the $%#$% remote!
"I've always been mad, I know I've been mad, like the most of us have...very hard to explain why you're mad, even if you're not mad..." -
That's what I thought at first. They were in the packing cartons with the speakers at the time of purchase. That and the holes are not where that should be for glides or spikes. It would be way to unstable in those holes. Also, there are no holes where they should have been. Maybe Polk tried these out and decided not to use them anymore on future runs. Hmmm.....
Thanks!Driver carries only 20 dollars in ammunition
Pedestrians have the right of way, unless they are in the way -
Yes, of course the SL3000 will match better than the SL6000, but I think you would have to alter the crossover. I recommend you call Ken Swauger at Polk and talk to him about it.
You stated that you can not use the rail holes because there are to far in, so you will have to drill new holes if you want to use the spikes, it's no big deal really. You can remove the bottom wood end cap by removing the PR and then removing the four bolts that hold the end cap on. That way you won't have to worry about drilling though the cabinet.
If I were you, being in earthquake country, I would use the Bass Brace. I really don't think it will transfer bass into the wall, mine don't.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
www.oregondv.com
Drop a line to Paul, and talk with him about the requirements, he is a great guy and has every spike for your needs. Tell him you are from the Polk Forum, he is a supporter.
SDA's have a 1/4 20 spike if I am not mistaken....isn't that what we measured a long time ago Jesse?CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint. -
Yes Mark, 1/4 - 20 is correct.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
F1nut....
I'm assuming you meant BR? That would then make sense to me. Remove the BR to gain access to the bolts? I tell ya, that bass brace is looking pretty good right now. I don't think it's possible to transfer anymore bass to my neighbors.
I had to turn off the sub for most decent volume level listening as the 1.2s provide enough bass for all but the most demanding of tracks (LFE in DD, etc.). They've also made me realize my subs in the wrong place. It sounds boomy compared to the 1.2s. I have the PSW650 currently. Not planning on getting a different one at the moment as bass isn't really and issue right now.
I think the most surprising thing was how much the soundstage opened up for DD and DTS. It's amazing now. There are no gaps up front or along the side walls. When I played the test tone for the FR, it made me pause and look at my SR as it sounded like it was on as well. That was a strange effect.Driver carries only 20 dollars in ammunition
Pedestrians have the right of way, unless they are in the way -
I mean the passive radiator (PR), it's the 15" round thingy at the bottom.
Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Every response I get lead to a new question. If the mids are extending during bass, doesn't that cause the PR to pull in? So exactly what does the PR really do? No much I could find about it.
Thanks!Driver carries only 20 dollars in ammunition
Pedestrians have the right of way, unless they are in the way
