Magnet Shift

oldrocker
oldrocker Posts: 2,590
edited August 2014 in Vintage Speakers
Is there a way to fix a magnet thats shifted? All components on this MW6510 look fine except the magnet has shifted.
"I have a replacement" on the way". Just curious if anyone has mastered how to put the magnet back together, lined up straight.
Thanks
Post edited by oldrocker on
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  • oldrocker
    oldrocker Posts: 2,590
    edited August 2014
    Heck with this, just put in the new one. Much easier....
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  • Schurkey
    Schurkey Posts: 2,101
    edited August 2014
    If nothing else is wrong, fixing a loose magnet or pole-piece isn't hard.

    http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?135716-Let-s-Try-to-Fix-a-MW6511-Damaged-in-Shipping...

    Don't use epoxy. I used automotive-grade anaerobic thread-locking compound.
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  • drumminman
    drumminman Posts: 3,396
    edited August 2014
    Schurkey wrote: »
    Don't use epoxy. I used automotive-grade anaerobic thread-locking compound.


    Why? I and most other use JB Weld. That or Loctite Power Grab.
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,441
    edited August 2014
    drumminman wrote: »
    Why? I and most other use JB Weld. That or Loctite Power Grab.

    because you would now be gluing two pieces together, instead of providing a back up hold.

    Anaerobic glue dries in the absence of oxygen between two pieces of metal.
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  • drumminman
    drumminman Posts: 3,396
    edited August 2014
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    because you would now be gluing two pieces together, instead of providing a back up hold.

    I thought that was the point, locking everything together.
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
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  • oldrocker
    oldrocker Posts: 2,590
    edited August 2014
    Thanks a bunch for the link, even has pictures which is the best.
    Appreciated!!
    Schurkey wrote: »
    If nothing else is wrong, fixing a loose magnet or pole-piece isn't hard.

    http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?135716-Let-s-Try-to-Fix-a-MW6511-Damaged-in-Shipping...

    Don't use epoxy. I used automotive-grade anaerobic thread-locking compound.
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,441
    edited August 2014
    drumminman wrote: »
    I thought that was the point, locking everything together.

    Correct but the items you listed are way too thick to work correctly while gluing two magnets together.


    check shurkeys link it has good pictures to give a better idea.
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  • Schurkey
    Schurkey Posts: 2,101
    edited August 2014
    Anaerobic thread-locker is a THIN adhesive that won't excessively separate the pole piece from the magnet or the magnet from the basket. Epoxy is too thick for optimum results.

    Folks use epoxy on magnets that are already glued to the basket and pole-piece; this creates a secondary reinforcement so the primary (and somewhat fragile) glue bond doesn't break.






    For the record, JB Weld is a very second-rate epoxy; especially the "quick-set" variety. A person can do MUCH better--but probably not at every hardware store, home improvement center and dollar-store. The main advantage of JB Weld is that it's readily available (and it works OK.)

    Marine Tex has been recommended to me. I haven't had a need for it, but that's what I'll buy when I do.

    http://www.marinetex.com/

    Years ago I had a tub of Devcon epoxy that got "surplussed" by the military because it had an expired date-code; that stuff was wonderful. I have no idea where to get more of it.
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  • drumminman
    drumminman Posts: 3,396
    edited August 2014
    Gotcha, two slightly different purposes.
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
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  • stogie
    stogie Posts: 230
    edited August 2014
    Devcon 2 Ton Epoxy is still available. Have not used it on speaker magnets, but it worked really well on other projects. I've seen it for sale online at Graingers, Amazon, Ace Hardware, etc.

    http://www.devcon.com/products/products.cfm?familyID=179
    Speakers: Polk SDA-SRS xovers rebuilt by David, RDO194's, Dynamat, BH5, glued magnets, new cloth, custom aluminum terminal plates with Cardas posts and Speakon interconnect
    Speaker Cables, Jumpers & Interconnect: DIY Douglas Connection
    Power Amp: Sunfire Architect's Choice Series II
    Preamp: Adcom GFP-750
    SACD/CD: Oppo BDP-95
    Tuner: Sansui TU-717
    TT: Technics SL-MA1
    Phono Pre: Emotiva XPS-1
    Music Server: Mac Mini w/JRiver - iPad w/JRemote
    DAC: Eastern Electric MiniMax Plus
    Other Polks: SDA: 1A, 1C, 2B, CRS+ / Monitor: 10A, 5jr, 4 / RT5
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  • bored184
    bored184 Posts: 324
    edited August 2014
    Where are you located in Indiana? I have a nice aluminum jig and I can realign it for you.
    Speakers: TL Monitor 10s, RTA 11TLs, Fortes, Thiel CS 1.2
    Amplifiers: ]Ashly FTX 2001 III, Dynaco ST-70, DIY F6
    Pre: Adcom GFP 750, Aikido Tube Pre
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