Speaker Cables + Interconnects - affordable/moderate entry to hear the difference?
msg
Posts: 10,120
Hey guys,
okay, so my curiosity is getting the better of me on the cable front, and I'd like to give this a shot to try to determine for myself whether this really makes a worthwhile difference to the listening experience for me. I'm not trying to come across as a skeptic here, but being relatively new to this, it's a little confusing when you see firm, logical positions from both sides of the argument. I'm open to the idea, and it makes sense to me.
I've been poking around here and there in searches this past week, but haven't had much time to dig in due to work obligations, so I haven't really taken in anything definitive as far as quality brands and such, or expected cost.
What I'm looking for is some moderately affordable brands/models that I look into trying out in order to determine for myself whether this contributes in a significant way to the sound quality in my system. by significant way, I mean, conveying in a better way than cheap stranded 12ga wire, rich, full, warm sound. this is what good cables are supposed to do, correct?
It's been an interesting journey so far since beginning this last winter, but much of it was frustrating and overwhelming in the beginning. I'm now feeling fairly well settled with some Parasound gear (Halo C2 w/HCA-2205) and a pair of Polk 2.3TL's. This setup sounds better than anything I've had yet, to date, but I'd like to make sure I'm getting the most out of everything.
I saw some MIT cable interfaces for about $37k. I'm gonna say here that those are just a tad more than I'd like to spend
what are some brands/models you guys might recommend to get me started? 6-10ft on the speaker cables will suffice, bi-wire on one end, possibly, if that's a recommended practice.
thanks in adv.
okay, so my curiosity is getting the better of me on the cable front, and I'd like to give this a shot to try to determine for myself whether this really makes a worthwhile difference to the listening experience for me. I'm not trying to come across as a skeptic here, but being relatively new to this, it's a little confusing when you see firm, logical positions from both sides of the argument. I'm open to the idea, and it makes sense to me.
I've been poking around here and there in searches this past week, but haven't had much time to dig in due to work obligations, so I haven't really taken in anything definitive as far as quality brands and such, or expected cost.
What I'm looking for is some moderately affordable brands/models that I look into trying out in order to determine for myself whether this contributes in a significant way to the sound quality in my system. by significant way, I mean, conveying in a better way than cheap stranded 12ga wire, rich, full, warm sound. this is what good cables are supposed to do, correct?
It's been an interesting journey so far since beginning this last winter, but much of it was frustrating and overwhelming in the beginning. I'm now feeling fairly well settled with some Parasound gear (Halo C2 w/HCA-2205) and a pair of Polk 2.3TL's. This setup sounds better than anything I've had yet, to date, but I'd like to make sure I'm getting the most out of everything.
I saw some MIT cable interfaces for about $37k. I'm gonna say here that those are just a tad more than I'd like to spend
what are some brands/models you guys might recommend to get me started? 6-10ft on the speaker cables will suffice, bi-wire on one end, possibly, if that's a recommended practice.
thanks in adv.
I disabled signatures.
Post edited by msg on
Comments
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I got signal cable set up on my HT from Signal speaker cables for L/R & center channel, Signal IC's and a Signal magic power cord, good bargain cables and real happy with them. On the 2 Channel I got MIT Terminator II speaker cables and IC's those were a bargain used, if you can't find any of these used and have to settle for something new at a reasonable price check out Signal.Home Theater
Parasound Halo A 31 OnkyoTX-NR838 Sony XBR55X850B 55" 4K RtiA9 Fronts CsiA6 Center RtiA3 Rears FxiA6 Side Surrounds Dual Psw 111's Oppo 105D Signal Ultra Speaker Cables & IC's Signal Magic Power Cable Technics SL Q300 Panamax MR4300 Audioquest Chocolate HDMI Cables Audioquest Forest USB Cable
2 Channel
Adcom 555II Vincent SA-T1 Marantz SA 15S2 Denon DR-M11 Clearaudio Bluemotion SDA 2.3tl's (Z) edition MIT Terminator II Speaker Cables & IC's Adcom 545II Adcom Gtp-450 Marantz CD5004 Technics M245X SDA 2B's, SDA CRS+
Stuff for the Head
JD LABS C5 Headphone Amplifier, Sennheiser HD 598, Polk Audio Buckle, Polk Audio Hinge, Velodyne vPulse, Bose IE2, Sennheiser CX 200 Street II, Sennheiser MX 365
Shower & Off the beaten path Rigs
Polk Audio Boom Swimmer, Polk Audio Urchin -
Signal Cable, Blue Jean Cable, for solid small companies that give good value. Audioquest for a better know brand with wide range of offerings.
MIT, Kimber for the lottery winner in you.HT Optoma HD25 LV on 80" DIY Screen, Anthem MRX 300 Receiver, Pioneer Elite BDP 51FD Polk CS350LS, Polk SDA1C, Polk FX300, Polk RT55, Dual EBS Adire Shiva 320watt tuned to 17hz, ICs-DIY Twisted Prs, Speaker-Raymond Cable
2 Channel Thorens TD 318 Grado ZF1, SACD/CD Marantz 8260, Soundstream/Krell DAC1, Audio Mirror PP1, Odyssey Stratos, ADS L-1290, ICs-DIY Twisted , Speaker-Raymond Cable -
Eh...there's hundreds of brands to choose from. Thing with cables is finding that synergy with the rest of your gear, and ears. You have to subscribe to the fact that you will have to kiss a few frogs before finding your Prince....so to speak.
Buy used....your buck will buy much more cable that way. For local store bought brands, Audioquest has to be on the short list. Used, the world is your oyster. Kimber is good, older MIT, Analysis plus, PFN, Grover, Reality cables, Silnote, etc.
Keep in mind what sounds good on someone elses system may not on yours...or to your ears. You don't have to spend a small fortune to get better sounding cables.HT SYSTEM-
Sony 850c 4k
Pioneer elite vhx 21
Sony 4k BRP
SVS SB-2000
Polk Sig. 20's
Polk FX500 surrounds
Cables-
Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable
Kitchen
Sonos zp90
Grant Fidelity tube dac
B&k 1420
lsi 9's -
excellent, guys, thanks for all the info so far. not opposed to buying used, in fact, don't particularly plan to buy anything local.
found some interesting reading on Audioquest's site earlier in the week
http://www.audioquest.com/theory-education/
http://www.audioquest.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/DoNoHarm-whitepaper-1222-11-r11.pdf
aren't there a couple of guys we know here who make cables that are supposed to be pretty good, too?I disabled signatures. -
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Used or check dougs cables out. Shoot him an email or call him. Tell him your gear and what kind of sound your trying to get. The quality of his workmanship is awsome!Klipsch The Nines, Audioquest Thunderbird Interconnect, Innuos Zen MK3 W4S recovery, Revolution Audio Labs USB & Ethernet, Border Patrol SE-I, Audioquest Niagara 5000 & Thunder, Cullen Crossover II PC's.
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I saw some MIT cable interfaces for about $37k. I'm gonna say here that those are just a tad more than I'd like to spend
You can buy MIT Shotgun S3's from Joe Abrams on Audiogon for WAY less than that. Might be the last cables you buy.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
thanks for all the recommendations guys. I'll check into all of these. I didn't realize some of this stuff could really be had somewhat "affordably" - even those MIT's.
so it's really just occurred to me - duh - that I should be looking at all my cables and not just the speaker ones.
is this something I can piece-meal a little at a time? should I do it this way to determine what I'm gaining, or is this something I should be doing all at once at my level of system building?I disabled signatures. -
I would say do it a piece at a time, speaker cables, then IC's, maybe a digital coax if you use one. That way you can attribute any pluses or minuses to a particular cable.HT SYSTEM-
Sony 850c 4k
Pioneer elite vhx 21
Sony 4k BRP
SVS SB-2000
Polk Sig. 20's
Polk FX500 surrounds
Cables-
Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable
Kitchen
Sonos zp90
Grant Fidelity tube dac
B&k 1420
lsi 9's -
I like Kimbers "budget" stuff, that may well be the last cables you need; Kimber PBJ IC's and 4TC speaker cable. See also their cheaper lines that have the same topology (PR and VS I think).
While I really like Audioquest, their IC's need to be handled with care as they are solid copper conductors, and can sometimes break from flexing too much---I speak from direct experience.Source: Bluesound Node 2i - Preamp/DAC: Benchmark DAC2 DX - Amp: Parasound Halo A21 - Speakers: MartinLogan Motion 60XTi - Shop Rig: Yamaha A-S501 Integrated - Shop Spkrs: Elac Debut 2.0 B5.2 -
Check the website of transparent below.
http://transparentcable.com/special/
I'm not sure if I want to laugh at the absurdity, or get angry...Do you hear that buzzing noise? -
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Let me look through my box at home. If I have anything decent and above, I'll let you know. If that is the case, I'll ship them to you for free. I know I have ICs and do not have speaker cables. My wife will be really happy that I'm cleaning up that "mess".
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I like Kimbers "budget" stuff, that may well be the last cables you need; Kimber PBJ IC's and 4TC speaker cable. See also their cheaper lines that have the same topology (PR and VS I think).
While I really like Audioquest, their IC's need to be handled with care as they are solid copper conductors, and can sometimes break from flexing too much---I speak from direct experience.
I agree steve. Though the TC line gets a bit pricey depending on if you need jumpers or bi-wire. I've been running 8VS (bi-wire on speaker end for my LSi front 3) and love the wire. I may try 4TC for the Infinities.
PB&J interconnects are cheap and solid.
I too have had a experience with Audioquest IC's breaking causing a crazy ground loop like hum...."....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963) -
MSG,
I have :
1x 3ft Audio Quest Component cable
2x 6ft Acoustic Research Pro II digital audio cable
1x 6ft Acoustic Research Performance series digital audio cable
1 pair of 3 ft Monster Interlink 300 mkII Interconnects
2 pairs of 3ft Acoustic Research performance series interconnects
1 12ft brand new still in bag Acoustic Research Pro II Optical Cable
1 pair 2ft Signal Cable (not sure which model) INterconnects
if any, or all sound interesting let me know. -
You have nice amp and speaks, what is your source's this may ( depending on what you have ) give you more bang for the buck than cables at this point. Please list your source equip! As far as cables go , mit and audioquest I use do make a diff. However if you use cd's an external DAC will have more of an impact than cables at this point ( again depending on what you use as a source) lastly bi-wire is a waist of time (especialy if only using one end) if you are going to split your signal go full biamp or dont mess with it. ( using an external xover)Main Rig:
Krell KAV 250a biamped to mid/highs
Parasound HCA1500A biamped to lows
Nakamichi EC100 Active xover
MIT exp 1 ic's
Perreaux SA33 class A preamp
AQ kingcobra ic's
OPPO 83 CDP
Lehmann audio black cube SE phono pre, Audioquest phono wire (ITA1/1)
Denon DP-1200 TT. AToc9ML MC cart.
Monster HTS 3600 power conditioner
ADS L1590/2 Biamped
MIT exps2 speaker cable -
Soundfreak1
So you feel its best to use jumpers instead of bi-wire cables? ....cause I notice that a lot of times the cost of upgrading a speaker cable to bi-wire cables is about the price of just buying good jumpers. just curious on your thoughts!2 ch- Polk CRS+ * Vincent SA-31MK Preamp * Vincent Sp-331 Amp * Marantz SA8005 SACD * Project Xperience Classic TT * Sumiko Blue Point #2 MC cartridge
HT - Polk 703's * NAD T-758 * Adcom 5503 * Oppo 103 * Samsung 60" series 8 LCD -
Soundfreak1
So you feel its best to use jumpers instead of bi-wire cables? ....cause I notice that a lot of times the cost of upgrading a speaker cable to bi-wire cables is about the price of just buying good jumpers. just curious on your thoughts!
I see (or hear) no advantage to biwireing at all not that one way is better than another.if you are going to biamp (with external xover) now you are going to be doing something to improve the sound,I do not believe there is any real audable improvment in biwiring with jumper or a cable just a placebo effect at best. Imho and experience.Main Rig:
Krell KAV 250a biamped to mid/highs
Parasound HCA1500A biamped to lows
Nakamichi EC100 Active xover
MIT exp 1 ic's
Perreaux SA33 class A preamp
AQ kingcobra ic's
OPPO 83 CDP
Lehmann audio black cube SE phono pre, Audioquest phono wire (ITA1/1)
Denon DP-1200 TT. AToc9ML MC cart.
Monster HTS 3600 power conditioner
ADS L1590/2 Biamped
MIT exps2 speaker cable -
soundfreak1 wrote: »I do not believe there is any real audable improvment in biwiring with jumper or a cable just a placebo effect at best. Imho and experience.
I suspect any improvement will be proportional to the quality of the speakers and associated gear (electronics and cables). I added Shunyata VTX-11 jumpers to my Aerial Acoustics 7T speakers, and the improvement was immediately obvious. I felt it was a worthwhile upgrade to help get the best performance from my speakers. In fact, since I recently moved those speakers into my HT as the fronts, I just bought another pair of the VTX-11 jumpers for the PSB Synchrony One rear speakers.Lumin X1 file player, Westminster Labs interconnect cable
Sony XA-5400ES SACD; Pass XP-22 pre; X600.5 amps
Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers; SPOD spikes
Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables
Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
Three 20 amp circuits. -
interconnection for sda2 wanted ,iapreciated your help .thankssoundfreak1 wrote: »I do not believe there is any real audable improvment in biwiring with jumper or a cable just a placebo effect at best. Imho and experience.
I suspect any improvement will be proportional to the quality of the speakers and associated gear (electronics and cables). I added Shunyata VTX-11 jumpers to my Aerial Acoustics 7T speakers, and the improvement was immediately obvious. I felt it was a worthwhile upgrade to help get the best performance from my speakers. In fact, since I recently moved those speakers into my HT as the fronts, I just bought another pair of the VTX-11 jumpers for the PSB Synchrony One rear speakers.
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Gosh, I was just a little guy back in 2014...I disabled signatures.
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I can't believe how long this thread has come and gone and w/ each a new hopefully a rewarding experience. For me the poor hard headed dude who refused to think a hundred $ 100 a foot cable can be better than the 12 gu Rodger Russell has famously said. I went from tarnished green oxidized 16 gu speaker cable to progressively getting better of the pack. I now use for speaker runs BJC Belden 12 gu w/ bananas ends. for I/Cs I used donated clear thin little pairs from P-MAN from Adcom to pre/amplifier w/ VERY GOOD ENDS.>from Tony, Audio quest double snake headed for cdp.pre, for tt used what is there and not reversible and from tuner/audio out from AVR w/ DCH Labs> tuner in on the pre/amp. It all works and better than the gimmies in the boxes from the cdp or other devices. Short story end all matters how much so it's up to you.2chl- Adcom GFA- 555-Onkyo P-3150v pre/amp- JVC-QL-A200 tt- Denon 1940 ci cdp- Adcom GFS-6 -Modded '87 SDA 2Bs - Dynamat Ext.- BH-5- X-Overs VR-3, RDO-194 tweeters, Larry's Rings, Speakon/Neutrik I/C- Cherry stain tops Advent Maestros,Ohm model E
H/T- Toshiba au40" flat- Yamaha RX- V665 avr- YSD-11 Dock- I-Pod- Klipsch #400HD Speaker set-
Bdrm- Nikko 6065 receiver- JBL -G-200s--Pioneer 305 headphones--Sony CE375-5 disc -
Jesse nailed it earlier in the thread....MIT Shotgun series may be the last cables you ever buy....and snagging some used S1 or S2s is the way to go. I'm now working on upgrading my power cords to PS Audio and suspect my current power conditioner may be next to go, but more testing is needed to confirm that one.
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Using 'MIT Shotgun' and 'affordable' in the same thread is an oxymoron.
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Speedskater wrote: »Using 'MIT Shotgun' and 'affordable' in the same thread is an oxymoron.
Not Really....some could say the same thing about Polk LSIM's. Everything is relative to the individuals wallet.HT SYSTEM-
Sony 850c 4k
Pioneer elite vhx 21
Sony 4k BRP
SVS SB-2000
Polk Sig. 20's
Polk FX500 surrounds
Cables-
Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable
Kitchen
Sonos zp90
Grant Fidelity tube dac
B&k 1420
lsi 9's -
Carefully comb the used market, this site in particular, and there are deals to be had on Shotgun series.
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+2 / +2 - there are definitely deals to be had if you're patient & vigilant on the MIT's @kevhed72 is right - absolutely for a fraction of list if you look. As is @tonyb - it's all relative. I started by using what I consider to be very good upgraded cable that I could afford. Now, what I would have considered expensive cable then, I now can afford and I use. And there's nothing wrong with that IMO, in fact, that's what makes this a great hobby. I was happy with the old, but I'm happier with the new. It's all relative. That's not just true of my cables, but my speakers, my CD players, my turntables, everything in the rack. (well, except the racks, those are the same damn cheap $40 recycled wood flexys - I focused my energy elsewhere!)VA HT HK AVR20II, Sony S9000ES CD/DVD/SACD, Polk Audio RC80i / Polk Audio CSi3, 60" Panasonic Plasma, Nordost / Signal Cable A2 / Wireworld / Pangea / Magic Power
VA 2 Channel Focal Electra 926 speakers, Pass Labs X150.5 Amp, Eastern Electric MiniMax Preamp (Tutay mods), Eastern Electric Minimax CDP (Scott Nixon mods), Music Hall mmf 5.1 Turntable, Parks Audio Budgie Phono Pre , Audioengine B1 streamer, MIT S3 IC's / MIT Shotgun S3 Speaker Cables / PS Audio power cables
Noggin Schiit Valhalla, Pangea, Phillips Fidelio X1, Polk UF8000
Polk SDA1c modded
Polk CRS+ 4.1TL modded (need veneer)
Polk SDA2BTL (fully modded)
A/L 1000VA Dreadnought Canare 4s11 SDA cable
SACD Marantz DV8300
Sony S9000ES CD/DVD/SACD
Yamaha YP-D6
Soundcraftsmen PCR800
Audible Illusions L1 Preamp
Vincent MFA based Cocci Tube Preamp
Pho-700 Phono Pre
Signal Cable Silver Resolution IC's -
Speedskater wrote: »
Using 'MIT Shotgun' and 'affordable' in the same thread is an oxymoron.
Not Really....some could say the same thing about Polk LSIM's. Everything is relative to the individuals wallet.
But if I the had money to afford MIT cables, I would still stick with Blue Jeans Cable.
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Is that because you've tried MIT Shotgun cables and didn't like them or something else?Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Something else.