Newbie respectfully asking for assistance with set-up

southbama61
southbama61 Posts: 22
Hello all. I am a 53 yr old fairly intelligent guy who was finally able to acquire an audio system. Trouble is I am absolutely confused as to the proper method or options for wiring and settings. My equipment is as follows

2 Polk LSi25 towers front
1 Polk LSI C center
2 Polk LSiF/X rear
1Polk DSW micropro 3000 sub
1Onkyo TX-NR1007 AV receiver

Zone 2

2 Polk Atrium 8sdi outdoor

I just cannot ascertain from the Polk manual or the Onkyo manual what would be considered correct. I have done more reading on the net on the subject than I care to admit and am still confused. I have come to the conclusion that there may, just may be multiple options that could be considered correct. I have also learned that these fine Polk speakers need a big time power boost from a separate amp which can happen in the fall. The receiver is on the way back now, literally, from Onkyo authorized repair center due to HDMI board failure, which Onkyo covered outside of the warranty period. I would really like to get the set-up right this time to try to fully appreciate what I have. My use is probably more music than HT, and being a musician I know what sounds good, I just need some guidance in achieving it. I have not called Polk technical for assistance, and will do so if recommended.

Thank you in advance to any knowledgable persons input on this subject.
Post edited by southbama61 on

Comments

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,647
    edited July 2014
    The first issue you need to address is the fact your AVR is not rated to drive 4 ohm loads, so either replace it with a Pioneer Elite SC series AVR or add at least a 3 channel power amp.

    For HT, run the calibration program to establish a base line, then fine tune by ear and an SPL meter. The program will probably set your L&R to large. Change that and any other large setting to small, set the crossover point to 80Hz.

    For 2 channel, you'll have to run the program again with just the L&R's plus the sub if desired. Again, fine tune by ear/meter.

    For mostly music purposes, the LSi25's are the least musical of the LSi series, IMO. The 15's or 9's would have been a better choice.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • southbama61
    southbama61 Posts: 22
    edited July 2014
    Thank you F1. The receiver does have a 4 ohm setting, but it will never deliver what these speakers need. Do you have any wiring suggestions for this set-up? And, should I get a 7 channel amp(to cover zone 2) or do multiple amps? Want more power to all speakers.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,647
    edited July 2014
    The receiver does have a 4 ohm setting, but it will never deliver what these speakers need.

    Right because all that does is limit current.

    Not sure what you mean by wiring suggestions. Do mean what cables to use?

    A 7 channel amp sounds like the ticket if you want more power for all channels.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • southbama61
    southbama61 Posts: 22
    edited July 2014
    F1nut wrote: »
    Right because all that does is limit current.

    Not sure what you mean by wiring suggestions. Do mean what cables to use?

    A 7 channel amp sounds like the ticket if you want more power for all channels.

    By wiring I am referring to the sub and possible bi amp of towers. And, with the towers having powered subs I guess volume is the only setting? I want to be able to utilize the towers subs since I have them. On the calibration program and running it twice, I assume the results are saved and I guess the receiver determines which to apply based on the audio mode playing? Sorry, not only new but also from Alabama. But, huge F1 fan also. If not Kimi this year, pulling for Nico.
  • codyc1ark
    codyc1ark Posts: 2,532
    edited July 2014
    By wiring I am referring to the sub and possible bi amp of towers. And, with the towers having powered subs I guess volume is the only setting? I want to be able to utilize the towers subs since I have them. On the calibration program and running it twice, I assume the results are saved and I guess the receiver determines which to apply based on the audio mode playing? Sorry, not only new but also from Alabama. But, huge F1 fan also. If not Kimi this year, pulling for Nico.

    I'll assume that your AVR has a sub pre out as an RCA connector. You will run an RCA from your avr to the micropro. No need to bi wire, get your read on about that. The clubhouse section has a great thread as the top on how to search the forum with google, bring coffee. I'll back F1 on the amp, until you get one do not turn it up too much. Lots more risk to damage your gear by under powering the speakers.
  • southbama61
    southbama61 Posts: 22
    edited July 2014
    codyc1ark wrote: »
    I'll assume that your AVR has a sub pre out as an RCA connector. You will run an RCA from your avr to the micropro. No need to bi wire, get your read on about that. The clubhouse section has a great thread as the top on how to search the forum with google, bring coffee. I'll back F1 on the amp, until you get one do not turn it up too much. Lots more risk to damage your gear by under powering the speakers.

    Thank you Cody. Is the connection at the sub the LFE? AVR does have 2 sub outs. I will not bi amp this time, so I assume jumpers go back on the towers?
  • codyc1ark
    codyc1ark Posts: 2,532
    edited July 2014
    Yep, low frequency effects (LFE), just use one of the outs and you'll be fine. Slap those jumpers back on, watch the volume knob, enjoy. As the old saying goes, KISS. :wink:
  • hochpt21
    hochpt21 Posts: 5,423
    edited July 2014
    Welcome southbama! I second cody on not needing to bi-amp.
    2 ChannelTurntable - VPI Classic 2/Ortofon 2M BlueAmplification - Rogue Audio Cronus Magnum II, Parks Audio Budgie PhonoSpeakers - GoldenEar Triton 17.2 Home TheaterDenon AVR-X3300W; Rotel RMB-1066; Klipsch RP-280F's, Klipsch RP-450C, Polk FXi3's, Polk RC60i; Dual SVS PB 2000's; BenQ HT2050; Elite Screens 120"Man CaveTurntable - Pro-Ject 2.9 Wood/Grado GoldAmplification - Dared SL2000a, McCormack DNA 0.5 DeluxeCD: Cambridge AudioSpeakers - Wharfedale Linton 85th Anniversary; LSiM 703; SDA 2A
  • hochpt21
    hochpt21 Posts: 5,423
    edited July 2014
    A little tweak that F1 told me when I first joined was to replace the jumpers with aftermarket jumpers or speaker wire.
    2 ChannelTurntable - VPI Classic 2/Ortofon 2M BlueAmplification - Rogue Audio Cronus Magnum II, Parks Audio Budgie PhonoSpeakers - GoldenEar Triton 17.2 Home TheaterDenon AVR-X3300W; Rotel RMB-1066; Klipsch RP-280F's, Klipsch RP-450C, Polk FXi3's, Polk RC60i; Dual SVS PB 2000's; BenQ HT2050; Elite Screens 120"Man CaveTurntable - Pro-Ject 2.9 Wood/Grado GoldAmplification - Dared SL2000a, McCormack DNA 0.5 DeluxeCD: Cambridge AudioSpeakers - Wharfedale Linton 85th Anniversary; LSiM 703; SDA 2A
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,647
    edited July 2014
    Forget bi-amping with an AVR. It's not bi-amping for starters and the more channels you use the less wpc the AVR will provide. You're already pushing the issue using 4 ohm speakers.
    I want to be able to utilize the towers subs since I have them.

    You may run into cancellation issues using those subs and a subwoofer. The MircoPro will do a better job with the low end anyway.
    On the calibration program and running it twice, I assume the results are saved and I guess the receiver determines which to apply based on the audio mode playing?

    It should.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • southbama61
    southbama61 Posts: 22
    edited July 2014
    Thanks for the info and the welcome hochpt21. Cody mentioned the Clubhouse but I am not finding it.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,647
    edited July 2014
    hochpt21 wrote: »
    A little tweak that F1 told me when I first joined was to replace the jumpers with aftermarket jumpers or speaker wire.

    ^This^
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Hermitism
    Hermitism Posts: 4,271
    edited July 2014
  • southbama61
    southbama61 Posts: 22
    edited July 2014
    F1nut wrote: »
    The first issue you need to address is the fact your AVR is not rated to drive 4 ohm loads, so either replace it with a Pioneer Elite SC series AVR or add at least a 3 channel power amp.

    For HT, run the calibration program to establish a base line, then fine tune by ear and an SPL meter. The program will probably set your L&R to large. Change that and any other large setting to small, set the crossover point to 80Hz.

    For 2 channel, you'll have to run the program again with just the L&R's plus the sub if desired. Again, fine tune by ear/meter.

    For mostly music purposes, the LSi25's are the least musical of the LSi series, IMO. The 15's or 9's would have been a better choice.

    Regarding the need for an amp.......Looking at Emotiva, and wondering if you guys think the UPA 500 would suffice at 120 watts per channel or need to go XPA 5 at 300 watts per channel. Big cost difference, and while I do understand the large difference in watts, would the 120 watt amp adequately drive the LSi's?
  • nguyendot
    nguyendot Posts: 3,594
    edited July 2014
    XPA 5.

    or go find a used Rotel 1095. I believe there is/was one for sale in the FS (for sale) forum. I had one and it powered just about everything. It's a great place to start.
    Main Surround -
    Epson 8350 Projector/ Elite Screens 120" / Pioneer Elite SC-35 / Sunfire Signature / Focal Chorus 716s / Focal Chorus CC / Polk MC80 / Polk PSW150 sub

    Bedroom - Sharp Aquos 70" 650 / Pioneer SC-1222k / Polk RT-55 / Polk CS-250

    Den - Rotel RSP-1068 / Threshold CAS-2 / Boston VR-M60 / BDP-05FD
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,647
    edited July 2014
    Regarding the need for an amp.......Looking at Emotiva, and wondering if you guys think the UPA 500 would suffice at 120 watts per channel or need to go XPA 5 at 300 watts per channel. Big cost difference, and while I do understand the large difference in watts, would the 120 watt amp adequately drive the LSi's?

    I thought your focus was mainly music.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • southbama61
    southbama61 Posts: 22
    edited July 2014
    F1nut wrote: »
    I thought your focus was mainly music.

    It is, but my budget is controlled by wife. Heck, I am lucky to have what I have. She thinks a transistor radio should be enough.
  • nguyendot
    nguyendot Posts: 3,594
    edited July 2014
    Music would switch gears to different brands of amps that will undoubtedly cost big bucks.
    Main Surround -
    Epson 8350 Projector/ Elite Screens 120" / Pioneer Elite SC-35 / Sunfire Signature / Focal Chorus 716s / Focal Chorus CC / Polk MC80 / Polk PSW150 sub

    Bedroom - Sharp Aquos 70" 650 / Pioneer SC-1222k / Polk RT-55 / Polk CS-250

    Den - Rotel RSP-1068 / Threshold CAS-2 / Boston VR-M60 / BDP-05FD
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,647
    edited July 2014
    It is, but my budget is controlled by wife. Heck, I am lucky to have what I have. She thinks a transistor radio should be enough.

    Look here, www.audiogon.com
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk