Original RTA 12 restoration and mods

Bigerik
Bigerik Posts: 149
edited July 2014 in Vintage Speakers
Hi folks.

I dug my old RTA 12's out of storage, with the intention of restoring them and putting them back into regular service. I've hunted around some, and found plenty of info on the later RTA 12's, but not much on the first gen. If the info exists, could someone please steer me in the right direction. If anyone has any thoughts on good mods, I'd love to hear them. Pics to foliow!
Post edited by Bigerik on

Comments

  • Bigerik
    Bigerik Posts: 149
    edited July 2014
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,554
    edited July 2014
    Hey Bigerik, long time no talk. Are you looking for advice concerning the crossovers only or any and all that can be done?
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Bigerik
    Bigerik Posts: 149
    edited July 2014
    Hey Jesse.

    It's been a long time indeed. How's things with you?

    I'm open to pretty well anything with these speakers. What did you have in mind?

    Thanks
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,554
    edited July 2014
    I'm still sucking air, so I guess it's all good. :smile:

    First thing would be crossover upgrades. Replace all the caps with high quality film and foil, I like Sonicaps. Replace the resistors with Mills 12 watt. You can get the values from the ones on the board or check if the schematic for yours is listed here. Adding spikes to the cabinet base will tighten up the bass and mids. Apply Dynamat Xtreme to the stamped steel mid-driver and PR baskets. Remove the fuse and clean the terminals and fuse ends with DeOxit, then treat with Pro Gold.

    Replacing the binding posts with some of higher quality is a good idea because the ones Polk used are low quality, but I can't say I've ever heard a sonic improvement from doing so. More of a piece of mind deal.

    Better mechanical fastening of the mids and PR net surprising results. Toolfan66 use to sell what we call Larry's Rings, but he hasn't made any for a while, so you can use Hurricane nuts instead. You would install these in the screw holes, then use 8-32 hex head bolts to attach the mids and PR. Be aware, installing the Hurricane nuts can be a bit tricking.

    That should get you going.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,554
    edited July 2014
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Bigerik
    Bigerik Posts: 149
    edited July 2014
    Thanks Jesse.
    Lots of good info. Added my name to the ring list too. Just in case!
  • Bigerik
    Bigerik Posts: 149
    edited July 2014
    Well, it turns out that someone had swapped out one of the drivers (not in the picture) with a MW 6500. So looks like I need to source a silver MW 6500 also.
  • Bigerik
    Bigerik Posts: 149
    edited July 2014
    Oops. That should have said someone swapped out the original MW 6500 with a MW 6502.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,554
    edited July 2014
    They come up here now and then. Also, check eBay.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Bigerik
    Bigerik Posts: 149
    edited July 2014
    Thanks Gents. I'm sure i'll hunt up a pair eventually.
  • Bigerik
    Bigerik Posts: 149
    edited July 2014
    Took a look at the underside of the circuit board and was quite surprised to not find traces on the other side. Rather, it had pretty crude point to point wiring. I'll try to get a picture of it. It looks home made in the worst sense of the word.
  • Bigerik
    Bigerik Posts: 149
    edited July 2014
    Anyone know when Polk went to a printed circuit board for the RTA 12?
  • Bigerik
    Bigerik Posts: 149
    edited July 2014
    Hmmm. I might turn these from a restoration project into a parts unit. More work then I figured on to get them where I want.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,554
    edited July 2014
    Point to point is considered sonically better than PCB.

    A project I recently completed taking the stock crossovers on PCB's from this.....

    RTiA7 original.JPG


    ...to this.

    RTiA7-1.JPG


    Showing the point to point wiring.

    RTiA7-5.JPG
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Faustin
    Faustin Posts: 1,149
    edited July 2014
    Bigerik wrote: »
    Hmmm. I might turn these from a restoration project into a parts unit. More work then I figured on to get them where I want.

    If the cabinets are the same size as the later RTA 12's, can you replace the crossovers and turn them into 12c's?
  • Bigerik
    Bigerik Posts: 149
    edited July 2014
    F1nut wrote: »
    Point to point is considered sonically better than PCB.

    A project I recently completed taking the stock crossovers on PCB's from this.....

    RTiA7 original.JPG


    ...to this.

    RTiA7-1.JPG


    Showing the point to point wiring.

    RTiA7-5.JPG

    I don't doubt the benefits of point to point wiring. When I used to build speakers, I would do it no other way. Just kinda underwhelmed by how Polk did it.
  • Bigerik
    Bigerik Posts: 149
    edited July 2014
    Faustin wrote: »
    If the cabinets are the same size as the later RTA 12's, can you replace the crossovers and turn them into 12c's?

    I'd have to check the cabinet volume to answer that. However, the cabinets are not in that great a shape. They could stand a re veneering.

    As I started looking at what needed to be done, the investment in time, effort and money didn't seem to make sense. If thr end result would be something akin to an SDA SRS, then thr investment might be worth it for me. :)
  • Bigerik
    Bigerik Posts: 149
    edited July 2014
    Yup, they are going to be parted out. If I can get up to 100 posts, I'll throw an ad up in the classifieds.
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,441
    edited July 2014
    nbrowser wrote: »
    Might be a challenge to find some "silver" MW6500 drivers, I've been poking around for an extra or two for my early Monitor 5s with the "silver" basket MW6500...like looking for a needle in a haystack.

    I've seen 4pr on ebay in the last two months
  • Bigerik
    Bigerik Posts: 149
    edited July 2014
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    I've seen 4pr on ebay in the last two months

    And three more will be available soon. :)
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,441
    edited July 2014
    I'd JB weld them first our some sort of putty epoxy to keep them from slipping.

    my .02
  • Bigerik
    Bigerik Posts: 149
    edited July 2014
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    I'd JB weld them first our some sort of putty epoxy to keep them from slipping.

    my .02

    You mean before shipping?
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,441
    edited July 2014
    Bigerik wrote: »
    You mean before shipping?

    Yes because after shipping it may not matter. My thought is to keep from slipping the best you could for anybody buying these. A frozen voice coil will mean refund on the driver, scarce enough as it is.