Shopping list for DIY sub
EndersShadow
Posts: 17,593
So I've been looking at and bought some parts to build a DIY sub based on a Martycube (see pics).
So I've got the basic box design locked in.
So far these are the parts I have bought:
-Driver: Stereo Integrity 15" D2 woofer
-Amp: Dayton SA-1000 amplifier
-DSP/EQ: MiniDSP 2x4
-Mic: UMIK-1 mic (for use with REW)
-Gasket: Armacell (left over from db mod to my LSi 15's) - open to other suggestions if there is something better to use.
-Internal Wiring: Audioquest FLX 14/4 - leftover from other builds (open to other suggestions, need like 2m max of wire). Plan to only use 2 of the 4 connectors of the FLX as otherwise the gauge is too large.
Here are a couple parts I plan to buy:
RCA's: Kimber Kable PBJ 1m & .75m - these will connect AVR -> MiniDSP -> Dayton SA1000
Speaker Cable: 15 foot Kimber Kable single wire w/ standard banana's 8VS or 8PR
Foam: Acoustic Foam
Here is where I need your help. I am in need of help finding the following parts:
1 set of Binding posts.
So anybody have some suggestions for the parts I need? Anybody have some suggested parts I dont have listed that I need?
So I've got the basic box design locked in.
So far these are the parts I have bought:
-Driver: Stereo Integrity 15" D2 woofer
-Amp: Dayton SA-1000 amplifier
-DSP/EQ: MiniDSP 2x4
-Mic: UMIK-1 mic (for use with REW)
-Gasket: Armacell (left over from db mod to my LSi 15's) - open to other suggestions if there is something better to use.
-Internal Wiring: Audioquest FLX 14/4 - leftover from other builds (open to other suggestions, need like 2m max of wire). Plan to only use 2 of the 4 connectors of the FLX as otherwise the gauge is too large.
Here are a couple parts I plan to buy:
RCA's: Kimber Kable PBJ 1m & .75m - these will connect AVR -> MiniDSP -> Dayton SA1000
Speaker Cable: 15 foot Kimber Kable single wire w/ standard banana's 8VS or 8PR
Foam: Acoustic Foam
Here is where I need your help. I am in need of help finding the following parts:
1 set of Binding posts.
I am planning on having the binding posts be on the front baffle which will be ~1.5 inches thick. Looking for something decent. Can be in a kit with a cutout or independent.
Bolts for mounting sub to baffle
I am not sure what size bolt I need. Here is a link to measurements for the actual speaker. They need to be 1.5" long as thats the planned baffle depth. Prefer if they were black.
Anything else you think I am missingSo anybody have some suggestions for the parts I need? Anybody have some suggested parts I dont have listed that I need?
"....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
Post edited by EndersShadow on
Comments
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You can buy both from Parts Express... The bolts may be an issue on size. The bolts come in three sizes, #8, #10 or 1/4"... I know Polks 12" uses #8 and Dayton 15" uses #10. My guess is that the SI18 uses #10 as well. The bolts come with the t-nuts in a 8-pack for under $4.
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You can buy both from Parts Express... The bolts may be an issue on size. The bolts come in three sizes, #8, #10 or 1/4"... I know Polks 12" uses #8 and Dayton 15" uses #10. My guess is that the SI18 uses #10 as well. The bolts come with the t-nuts in a 8-pack for under $4.
Its not the SI 18, its the SI 15, not that it matters any for purposes of this issue. I liked to the engineered drawings in hope someone could decipher them as to what size they are.Ender, hurricane nuts...don't even question it. Need to make sure that big bad woofer isn't going anywhere once it's installed into the baffle. Sounds like your using at least .75" or 1" MDF to construct the enclosure and even at those thinknesses I'd still use the hurricane nuts on the backside so you can really crank the woofer down and get it to seal for a lifetime.
Probably .75, need to double check that. I may just do a 2" thick baffle so I can use 1" thick MDF for everything as thats my preference. Plus it will make the legs stronger, as well as the enclosure heavier, so it makes better contact with the concrete slab.
I am fairly certain we will use hurricane nuts as once this thing is built I dont want to have to open it back up for a LONG LONG time!"....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963) -
Myself, had several issues with T Nuts and MDF over the years so Hurricane nuts or barbed inserts seem like a better option. However, I am favoring threaded inserts here recently...read about folks having Hurricane nuts accidentally pushed through. Even read about some having success with drywall anchors.
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1464218/best-fastener-to-use-when-mounting-sub-drivers-to-mdf
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1221153/t-nuts-vs-hurricane-nuts-vs-barbed-insert-nuts-which-nuts-are-for-you/90
Will the enclosure be MDF or plywood? Even if using MDF consider a plywood ring as I have read about issues with many types of fasteners and inserts with MDF. To help line up the holes I read about a guy that uses a transfer punch:http://www.harborfreight.com/28-piece-transfer-punch-set-3577.html
Also, the heavy duty Dayton Audio rubber feet have some good feedback: http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-drfs1-1-3-8-x-1-heavy-duty-rubber-feet-4-pcs--240-7122.2 Office Setup | LG 29UB55 21:9 UltraWide | HP Probook 630 G8 | Dell Latitude | Cabasse Stream Amp 100 | Boston Acoustics VS 240 | AUDIORAX Desk Stands | Mirage Omni S8 sub1 | Mirage Omni S8 Sub2