converting CAR sub to HT sub?
doggie750
Posts: 1,160
Hello Polks,
I've been wondering about this. Is this possible? I think it is, it's just a matter of tweaking the load input right
Oh yeah........just bought a SVS PC ultra 16-39 earlier today.....Just did it..........and forget about it (THE PRICE)......:D
I've been wondering about this. Is this possible? I think it is, it's just a matter of tweaking the load input right
Oh yeah........just bought a SVS PC ultra 16-39 earlier today.....Just did it..........and forget about it (THE PRICE)......:D
Godspeed,
D0661E
AVR:Pioneer Elite SC-07
Surrounds: RTis
2channel:Rti100 (carver driven
Sub:SVS PB12-Plus/2
Dedicated AMPs:Adcom GFA535, 2xCarver 1.5t, Carver m1.0t
Wsrn:Hitachi ultra vision LCD60, 32XBR400
PowerConditioner: MonsterC HTS5100
PS3, Toshiba HD A2, etc: SonySACD/ Panasonic gears DIVX.
MR3LIGION: Polkaudio; GSXR; E46; Reeftank;
Odyclub; Xsimulator; Sony; Zune; Canon
D0661E
AVR:Pioneer Elite SC-07
Surrounds: RTis
2channel:Rti100 (carver driven
Sub:SVS PB12-Plus/2
Dedicated AMPs:Adcom GFA535, 2xCarver 1.5t, Carver m1.0t
Wsrn:Hitachi ultra vision LCD60, 32XBR400
PowerConditioner: MonsterC HTS5100
PS3, Toshiba HD A2, etc: SonySACD/ Panasonic gears DIVX.
MR3LIGION: Polkaudio; GSXR; E46; Reeftank;
Odyclub; Xsimulator; Sony; Zune; Canon
Post edited by doggie750 on
Comments
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You can use a car sub for HT and the impedance is usually not a problem. The T/S specs are different from HT drivers. They have low Vas and high Fs so they perform well in small boxes but they usually roll off quickly in larger rooms. It can be done and many have done it. If you already have the driver and box throw the specs into WinISD.
What SVS did you order? I thought the Ultra had variable tunes. And the Plus series has the 20-39 and the 16-46. Never heard of that sub.Graham -
You can definitely use a car audio subs for HT, IMO I belive you can achive better results at a much lower price using car audio subs. My brother used to use 2 12" Cerwin Vega Vega series subs, each in a 1.5^ft ported box tuned to 32hz in his large HT room, and all I can say is wow. There shouldn't be a problem puting one of these together with the correct ohms, car audio subs come in an array of configurations, 1.5, 2, 4, 6, 8, 12, ohms, single or dual voice coils, run them in series or parallel and I belive you will find what you need.
I am thinking of doing this myself, since the psw505 is not cutting it. I thought about using the JL Audio 10W7 sub, having my car audio buddies at a shop construct me a ported box(that looks nice for HT) I am not sure what HZ to tune it to, any recommendations? Sounds like alot of work, maybe I will just take the SVS plunge:D
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Originally posted by JrVtecAccord
since the psw505 is not cutting it
:eek: Just curious, what are all your sub settings on the receiver and the sub itself.
Actually I have two Rockford Fosgate Punch Audiophile 8ohm 12's just sitting in my basement now, and I have thought of trying the DIY path with them. They produce the most accurate bass (in a car) that I have heard. I have Infinity Kappa 12's in my car right now, they are loud as heck, but not as accurate. I've also had others, but people always seem to "remove" them from my vehicles.
Regards,
PolkThug -
Car subs can certainly produce SPLs but usually what you are looking for in HT is extension. You ideally want a driver with high Sd, Xmax and low Fs. A Shiva fits the bill and it is cheap IMO. Many of the effects in HT are in the 30-50 Hz range and a car sub will do that. If you want flat to 20 or 15 Hz than a HT driver is the way to go.
If you haven't already purchased the drivers than I suggest looking at the PE Titanics, Adire Tempest, Shiva, Stryke AV12 or AV15. These are all designed for use in large rooms and there are many plans already available for these drivers. They are about the same price as quality car audio subs.Graham -
Originally posted by PolkThug
:eek: Just curious, what are all your sub settings on the receiver and the sub itself.
I have the sub connected to my receiver via LFE, it is corner loaded, on the receiver I have the settings on global at 60 HZ, LFE -2db, sub out 4db. This is the best settings i've found so far, then agian the psw505 is still new to me and I am pretty sure I can achieve more performance from it. I am just a bass junkie, it probably suits many users.
In my car I have 2 12" Jl Audio W3v2 in a ported box tuned at 35 HZ powered by a Xtant amp and it's amazing:) -
Originally posted by JrVtecAccord
I am thinking of doing this myself, since the psw505 is not cutting it. I thought about using the JL Audio 10W7 sub, having my car audio buddies at a shop construct me a ported box(that looks nice for HT) I am not sure what HZ to tune it to, any recommendations? Sounds like alot of work, maybe I will just take the SVS plunge:D
Bad idea! I wouldn't waste my money on that for home use! how much is that driver?
I'd go for a driver that is designed for HT. Look at the Adire Audio Shiva or Tempest, or if that JL sub costs several hundred dollars you'll want to check out the Adire Tumult. The Tumult would EASILY crush that JL audio driver to pieces!
Also check out the AV12 or AV15 from Stryke Audio. They are great deals for the money.
All drivers can be found here at Acoustic VisionsSony KDL-40V2500 HDTV, Rotel RSX-1067 Receiver, Sony BDP-S550 Blu-ray, Slim Devices Squeezebox, Polk RTi6, CSi3 & R15, DIY sub with Atlas 15 -
Damn that Tumult is a beast, but I don't think it will tear the Jl Audio 13W7 into pieces, I see the Tumult only comes in a 15" driver, I was think of using a 10". I have heard good things about Adire Audio, excellent bang for buck, I just haven't heard them with my own ears. I can get the 10W7 for $380, I already have some QSC amps that I used to use for Dj. All I really need is the right box, and that is the most important part of this puzzle, IMO:)
I am not sure when I can get this project started or purchase the SVS, because I mentionted this to my wife, and .....:eek: enough said,
Junior -
The Tumult is better than the JL for HT. It's T/S specs are better in every category I checked. Cheaper too.
The slightly larger 12" Shiva is much cheaper than the 10w7, displaces almost as much air and is more efficient (3 dB) and the resonant frequency is about 10 Hz lower. I cant think of a reason why you would pick the JL over the Stryke AV12 or Shiva for HT. Adire even gives you plans for several different box designs and LSPcad for designing your own box.Graham -
"I thought about using the JL Audio 10W7 sub, having my car audio buddies at a shop construct me a ported box(that looks nice for HT) I am not sure what HZ to tune it to, any recommendations?"
JL has some recommended box sizes and they say tune to 32 Hz which is about the same as the Fs. If you like the underdamped sound then a high Q Shiva design like the SBB4 might suit you. Just giving you some alternatives.Graham -
Need all you ears POLKs, I just purchased the SVS PC ultra last Wednesday and I am hearing all these.......cheap but good subs coming oot. Need all your advise here, is SVS worth dying for????????
It's PC ultra 16-39
ThanksGodspeed,
D0661E
AVR:Pioneer Elite SC-07
Surrounds: RTis
2channel:Rti100 (carver driven
Sub:SVS PB12-Plus/2
Dedicated AMPs:Adcom GFA535, 2xCarver 1.5t, Carver m1.0t
Wsrn:Hitachi ultra vision LCD60, 32XBR400
PowerConditioner: MonsterC HTS5100
PS3, Toshiba HD A2, etc: SonySACD/ Panasonic gears DIVX.
MR3LIGION: Polkaudio; GSXR; E46; Reeftank;
Odyclub; Xsimulator; Sony; Zune; Canon -
I've only heard of one person returning an SVS sub and that was because it had too much bass for their room. Does that answer your question?
Regards,
PolkThug -
A equal DIY sub will still cost maybe 80% of an SVS. Good subs ain't cheap. My DIY sub cost me about $1000 CDN.Graham