Monitor 7 - which version do I have? What is best bang-for-the $ mod?
SingleMaltKing
Posts: 19
(Same question, new thread with pics.)
The prodigal son has returned to Polk-dom after decades of being away. Am returning slowly, with a pair of Monitor 7's a pair of 4's.
Version - what version of the 7 do I have?
Mods - what are the most value-oriented mods? Crossover upgrade? New tweeters? ...
All thoughts welcome.
The prodigal son has returned to Polk-dom after decades of being away. Am returning slowly, with a pair of Monitor 7's a pair of 4's.
Version - what version of the 7 do I have?
Mods - what are the most value-oriented mods? Crossover upgrade? New tweeters? ...
All thoughts welcome.
Post edited by SingleMaltKing on
Comments
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Looks like 7C. I have the same one but haven't opened the drivers to check.
Most bang: Crossover upgrade.
Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze. -
Silver dome SL2000 tweeters are the give away there.
How do you like their sound? Because if they sound a little bright to you. I'd replace those with the RD-0194s first. And then do the crossovers. If they don't bother you that much, go crossover first!
Enjoy!
cnhCurrently orbiting Bowie's Blackstar.!
Polk Lsi-7s, Def Tech 8" sub, HK 3490, HK HD 990 (CDP/DAC), AKG Q701s
[sig. changed on a monthly basis as I rotate in and out of my stash] -
Looks like 7C. I have the same one but haven't opened the drivers to check.
Most bang: Crossover upgrade.
Would your recommendation change if I've never done soldering? -
It's pretty simple crossover so you can do it.
Just watch some YouTube videos on how to solder.
Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze. -
Just ordered Sonicaps and Mills, to replace what's there and and to replace polyswitch with a .33. Hopefully I won't burn the garage down during the soldering.
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Silver dome SL2000 tweeters are the give away there.
How do you like their sound? Because if they sound a little bright to you. I'd replace those with the RD-0194s first. And then do the crossovers. If they don't bother you that much, go crossover first!
Enjoy!
cnh.. -
boston1450 wrote: »thats what id do. But i dont mind the stock tweets in my 7's.... Good luck on your crossover upgrades
I'm with you there. I've noticed that I mind the SL2000 less and they don't sound that bad as I age. Probably can't hear the hump that well. Although my top end hearing is still around 15Khz. Maybe it's less sensitive up there?
cnhCurrently orbiting Bowie's Blackstar.!
Polk Lsi-7s, Def Tech 8" sub, HK 3490, HK HD 990 (CDP/DAC), AKG Q701s
[sig. changed on a monthly basis as I rotate in and out of my stash] -
I'm with you there. I've noticed that I mind the SL2000 less and they don't sound that bad as I age. Probably can't hear the hump that well. Although my top end hearing is still around 15Khz. Maybe it's less sensitive up there?
cnh
It also depends upon how long you listen at a time.
I never listen more than an hour sitting at a place, usually it's around 6 songs, 1/2 hour.
While the music is always being played, I don't think that hump matters when you are away or doing other things around the house.
May be those who listen critically for hours get annoyed by that hump thingy more as the time goes by.
I even like Forte with those two big horns but a friend of mine who also has Forte says, they kinda start poking with those horns after a while.
Klipsch RB81, KG3.5, B&W DM602.5, Polk.
Subwoofers: Klipsch RW10, Triad ProSub Bronze. -
Ive listened to my 7's for 4+ hours without fatigue to my ears. The tweets dont sound as pleasing as the Peerless tweeters & ive never heard the RDO's but hope to change them out in the near future. If the dust ever settles here..
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After having them for a while, I can see why some people feel the high end is 'too much'. Will see the impact of the cap & resistor changes; if still too brilliant, may then consider the 194's.
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SingleMaltKing wrote: »After having them for a while, I can see why some people feel the high end is 'too much'. Will see the impact of the cap & resistor changes; if still too brilliant, may then consider the 194's.
The resister value you replace that polyswitch with will have an impact on your high end; I replaced mine with a 0.5 Ohm resister and am very happy (the PS measured out at >1 Ohm after I pulled it--but it was >20 years old). One thing is for sure: get rid of the PS!Yamaha RX-A2050 AVR (5.0.2); LG OLED77C2 4K TV(4) Polk Monitor 10B's w/SoniCaps, Mills, and RDO-194 tweets (R/L F/R)(2) Polk RC80i (Top Middle)Polk CS300 center channelAnalog: B&O TX2 Turntable, Nakamichi Cassette Deck 1Digital: Pioneer CLD-99 Elite LD, Panasonic DMP-UB900 UHD Blu-RayBedroom: Arylic Up2Stream AMPv3 driving Polk Monitor 4's w/peerless tweets -
The resister value you replace that polyswitch with will have an impact on your high end; I replaced mine with a 0.5 Ohm resister and am very happy (the PS measured out at >1 Ohm after I pulled it--but it was >20 years old). One thing is for sure: get rid of the PS!
StantonZ, thanks. I followed the threads and opinions of what to replace with (and yes, I had concluded that the PS had to be replaced). Replacing with a .25 ohm, rather than a .5 and rather than a jumper. I am doing the replacements one part at a time, and will provide thoughts at each step.