Qs on RTA12s

OldSchoolPolk
OldSchoolPolk Posts: 159
edited May 2014 in Vintage Speakers
New member here and I've really enjoyed reading the posts. I had Monitor 7s back in high school (long gone now) and just found a pair in a GW for $15. Took'm home and they sounded bad due to frozen mids. No surprise there. Pulled the 6502s and found they were dated 1990.

Two weeks later I'm at the dump and found a pair of RTA 12s! At the dump?!?! Didn't know what they were at first but recognized the Polk format from adds growing up. One had a hole in the tweeter and I almost thought "why bother." But why not try'm out.

Asked the guy and he said "sure, take'm home". Hooked them up and they sounded bad for three seconds, then not so bad. Minute later they sounded almost good. Then they sounded better than my PSB B2s and my JBL LSR 308s. I honestly could not believe it! Started doing web searches and am guessing they are 12Bs w Peerless tweeters (both are vertically mounted and have holes)

Each have a frozen mid and I tried to pull one. Removed screws and tried to pull it off but could not and did not want to damage anything. So I've been listening to them for a week now and still can't believe how good they sound (with two seized mids!!).

I've read on this site about getting replacement mids from polk but when I called earlier for the M7s they said they did not stock them anymore. Tweeters seem fine and the dust/gunk on the c/o came off w a dry brush and can of air.

So now for the question. Do I get a replacement mids from PE or Madisound or Polk. After that do I do the c/o upgrades everyone is talking about? Seriously, these things sound great, but they shouldn't, right? Also, who is Trey in NC who does c/o? I did a search but got no returns

Thanks for all the info over the last weeks and any replies to this post.
HT: Marantz NR-1603, Oppo 981, Def Tech SM55, SVS PB-1000
BR: iPad Mini, Audio Engine A5+
2C: Parasound ZDAC V.2, Sony DA80ES, Sony XDR-F1HD, SVS Prime Tower, JSE .6 Infinite Slope
Office: MBAir, Focusrite Scarlett 2i2, JBL LSR-308
Projects: Polk RTA12, Polk Monitor 7, Revox B225CD, BIC 3-TM
Post edited by OldSchoolPolk on

Comments

  • zane77
    zane77 Posts: 1,696
    edited April 2014
    Try calling Polk customer service for replacement mids, calling works better than email, Trey can be found at VR3mods.com for crossover upgrades. Tell Polk you are a member here for a discount on replacement drivers, and welcome to the club.
    Home Theater
    Onkyo PR-SC5508 Sharp LC-70LE847U
    Emotiva XPA-5 Emotiva XPA-2 Emotiva UPA-2
    Front RTi-A9 Wide RTi-A7 Center CSi-A6 Surround FXi-A6 Rear RTi-A3 Sub 2x PSW505
    Sony BDP-S790 Dishnetwork Hopper/Joey Logitech Harmony One Apple TV
    Two Channel
    Oppo 105D BAT VK-500 w/BatPack SDA SRS 2.3 Dreadnought Squeezebox Touch Apple TV
  • Faustin
    Faustin Posts: 1,149
    edited April 2014
    Congrats on your find. I have a set of RTA 12c's that have upgraded c/o's, Dynamat, hurricane nuts etc. They sound great! I have a sheet of curly cherry veneer on it's way to redo the cabinets. Hope to have everything completed in the next week or two. In regards to your frozen drivers....in order to get them out of the cabinet, you will have to use a butter knife or putty knife to CAREFULLY pry them off the cabinet. They tend to get stuck over time from the gasket adhering to the cabinet. You just want to avoid scratching the wood. Once out you can see what model they are in order to get replacements. You might find used ones on ebay. Just have to make sure they are shipped properly so the magnets do not shift and freeze up. I have had a couple I have purchased arrive frozen. The last two I purchased arrived packaged properly and they were in excellent condition. Another c/o rebuild option is DHS Speaker Service. Dave Westmassguy) is a club member and does very nice work.
  • drumminman
    drumminman Posts: 3,396
    edited April 2014
    Sounds like you came across a pair of 1st gen RTA 12's (not B or C). Post pics when you can. These are a little different than the later generations in that both MW's were crossed at the same frequencies.

    The later generations had each MW covering a different part of the spectrum and came in L-R cabinets. If you inadvertantly set them up on the wrong side they sounded terrible. But when you set them up properly they're magical. Really, a soundstage that comes up just short of SDA-like. Very strong center image, extending vertically and horizontally.
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
  • OldSchoolPolk
    OldSchoolPolk Posts: 159
    edited April 2014
    Thanks for the replies. So I called Polk and was told the 6503s would work the the tech seemed unsure, he had to ask someone else.

    Also, is it cost effective to have the c/o rebuilt or do most people shift towards the SDA line. Is it possible to up grade the c/o and have the same affect as thr RTA 12C?

    Thanks again!
    HT: Marantz NR-1603, Oppo 981, Def Tech SM55, SVS PB-1000
    BR: iPad Mini, Audio Engine A5+
    2C: Parasound ZDAC V.2, Sony DA80ES, Sony XDR-F1HD, SVS Prime Tower, JSE .6 Infinite Slope
    Office: MBAir, Focusrite Scarlett 2i2, JBL LSR-308
    Projects: Polk RTA12, Polk Monitor 7, Revox B225CD, BIC 3-TM
  • drumminman
    drumminman Posts: 3,396
    edited April 2014
    Also, is it cost effective to have the c/o rebuilt or do most people shift towards the SDA line. Is it possible to up grade the c/o and have the same affect as thr RTA 12C?

    Seems like someone on the forum wanted to try that conversion, but I don't think it was possible. The B's and C's have both upper and lower Xovers so rebuilding them is more expensive. Yours have only the one on top of the cabinet, which shouldn't be too bad. Cost really depends on the quality of the components you use.
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
  • xjghost
    xjghost Posts: 1,101
    edited April 2014
    Yea post up some pictures! I swear I never get lucky like that!
    HT/2Channel: Emotiva MMC-1, Adcom GFA-555II, Polk SDA 3.1's, Teac TN-300 TT, Polk Center and Sub.

    Bedroom system: Carver CT-24, Parasound HCA-800II, Monitor 10's

    Additional projects: RTA 12c's
  • OldSchoolPolk
    OldSchoolPolk Posts: 159
    edited April 2014
    Thanks again for all the info!

    When I replace the mids what do I use for the gasket? Can I get new ones, as the old are sticking to the old mids and I assume a new gasket would be wise.

    I have not seen gaskets discussed and thought I would ask. Thanks again.
    HT: Marantz NR-1603, Oppo 981, Def Tech SM55, SVS PB-1000
    BR: iPad Mini, Audio Engine A5+
    2C: Parasound ZDAC V.2, Sony DA80ES, Sony XDR-F1HD, SVS Prime Tower, JSE .6 Infinite Slope
    Office: MBAir, Focusrite Scarlett 2i2, JBL LSR-308
    Projects: Polk RTA12, Polk Monitor 7, Revox B225CD, BIC 3-TM
  • drumminman
    drumminman Posts: 3,396
    edited April 2014
    Armacell has been found to be very good gasket material by most here at CP. I use it and it works great, not expensive. You can buy it at Home Depot. It comes in rolls, ~ $8, and you cut it into 1/2" strips.
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
  • OldSchoolPolk
    OldSchoolPolk Posts: 159
    edited May 2014
    Well I have to put off the MWs for a while as issues with my MBP has finally come to a head. I have to order a new battery and track pad and replace them. I got tools from iFixit where I'll order the replacement parts as well. Like their repair Manifesto below:

    http://www.ifixit.com/Manifesto

    Maybe next month for the MWs. But listening to the 12s now w/ seize mids they still sound great. Maybe I'm deaf, but they are rocking..
    HT: Marantz NR-1603, Oppo 981, Def Tech SM55, SVS PB-1000
    BR: iPad Mini, Audio Engine A5+
    2C: Parasound ZDAC V.2, Sony DA80ES, Sony XDR-F1HD, SVS Prime Tower, JSE .6 Infinite Slope
    Office: MBAir, Focusrite Scarlett 2i2, JBL LSR-308
    Projects: Polk RTA12, Polk Monitor 7, Revox B225CD, BIC 3-TM
  • Faustin
    Faustin Posts: 1,149
    edited May 2014
    When you get them back in shape you will ask yourself "why didn't I do this sooner"?