Aragon Amps with SDA speakers
bugsnt
Posts: 78
Hi All,
New SDA owner here... I want to use either one of my Aragon amps 8008BB or 8008x3 to power my SDA-2Bs.
I am aware of the need for common ground on the amplifier end.
From my reading here...
Do I need to take a measurement between the the two negative binding posts 1st?
Can I simply connect a wire between the two negative posts on my 8008BB?
With the 8008x3 amplifier ... do I connect all 3 negative posts?
I want to ensure that I don't damage either the amps or speakers before I go any further.
Thanks for any input.
New SDA owner here... I want to use either one of my Aragon amps 8008BB or 8008x3 to power my SDA-2Bs.
I am aware of the need for common ground on the amplifier end.
From my reading here...
Do I need to take a measurement between the the two negative binding posts 1st?
Can I simply connect a wire between the two negative posts on my 8008BB?
With the 8008x3 amplifier ... do I connect all 3 negative posts?
I want to ensure that I don't damage either the amps or speakers before I go any further.
Thanks for any input.
Post edited by bugsnt on
Comments
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Use an ohm meter and measure the resistance between the negative post of the two channels you want to use for your SDA's. It should read very close to zero ohms. If it does you are safe to use the amps. Or you can contact Aragon and ask them if they are common ground or maybe someone with some experience with these will chime in.Home Theater
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Take a look at this article from Indy Audio Labs(new owner of Aragon & Acurus): http://www.indyaudiolabs.com/blog/2013/4/11/common-ground-amplifier-designs ,3rd & 4th paragraphs
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Looks like you will need a Dreadnaught or AI-1 interface for this ampHome Theater
Onkyo PR-SC5508 Sharp LC-70LE847U
Emotiva XPA-5 Emotiva XPA-2 Emotiva UPA-2
Front RTi-A9 Wide RTi-A7 Center CSi-A6 Surround FXi-A6 Rear RTi-A3 Sub 2x PSW505
Sony BDP-S790 Dishnetwork Hopper/Joey Logitech Harmony One Apple TV
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Oppo 105D BAT VK-500 w/BatPack SDA SRS 2.3 Dreadnought Squeezebox Touch Apple TV -
You can go ahead and measure resistance, but I've measured three 8008BBs, and they're all ~20 ohms between the channels on the negative terminals. They are semi-common-ground, or partial-common-ground, and they sound like **** with my 1Bs. I have every expectation that the 8008X3 is the same.
Another member here has an 8008BB, and it actually shut down when used with his 3.1TL. (I think they were 3.1TLs.)
A simple jumper wire between the negative binding posts of the two channels is all it took to instantly and completely fix the problem for me. The other member also tried a jumper wire, but ultimately preferred the Dreadnaught isolation transformer. The isolation transformer is not an option with my 1Bs. It is for your 2Bs. If you use the 8008x3, you'd jumper the two channels that drive your 2Bs. There's no need to jumper the third channel. If you choose to use the isolation transformer, you don't need the jumper wire.
http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?74472-The-AI-1-Dreadnought-Project-Pt.1
The link above is the best start. There are many other threads but that's the one to begin with. Search for "Dreadnought" (proper spelling) and also "Dreadnaught" (commonly used spelling) on this site.
For the record, Indy Audio Labs does not recommend the jumper-wire solution; but wouldn't tell me why except that it was "safety" related. I discount their concern, as I've been using the jumper wire for years without problem. -
For the record, Indy Audio Labs does not recommend the jumper-wire solution; but wouldn't tell me why except that it was "safety" related. I discount their concern, as I've been using the jumper wire for years without problem. -
You can go ahead and measure resistance, but I've measured three 8008BBs, and they're all ~20 ohms between the channels on the negative terminals. They are semi-common-ground, or partial-common-ground, and they sound like **** with my 1Bs. I have every expectation that the 8008X3 is the same.
Another member here has an 8008BB, and it actually shut down when used with his 3.1TL. (I think they were 3.1TLs.)
A simple jumper wire between the negative binding posts of the two channels is all it took to instantly and completely fix the problem for me. The other member also tried a jumper wire, but ultimately preferred the Dreadnaught isolation transformer. The isolation transformer is not an option with my 1Bs. It is for your 2Bs. If you use the 8008x3, you'd jumper the two channels that drive your 2Bs. There's no need to jumper the third channel. If you choose to use the isolation transformer, you don't need the jumper wire.
http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?74472-The-AI-1-Dreadnought-Project-Pt.1
The link above is the best start. There are many other threads but that's the one to begin with. Search for "Dreadnought" (proper spelling) and also "Dreadnaught" (commonly used spelling) on this site.
For the record, Indy Audio Labs does not recommend the jumper-wire solution; but wouldn't tell me why except that it was "safety" related. I discount their concern, as I've been using the jumper wire for years without problem. -
The Dreadnought is the way to go. I've built one with both the Avel-Lindberg 800VA toroid and 1000VA. The latter was audibly better, but the smaller was no slouch. Both produced improvements with my common ground amp.
You can build the smaller one, including enclosure and binding posts for around $200 - $225."Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer -
Polkie2009 wrote: »Maybe someday I'll try finding a good used Aragon 8008bb, a lot of people said they sounded fantastic.
The 8008x3 uses the same amp circuit--including the full 12 output transistor per channel set--as the BB. There are significant differences in the power supply, case styling, and the 'x3 doesn't have the XLR (balanced) input sockets that the BB has. -
oops
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That case design on the 8008BB is a solid sender, plus you have to love the balanced inputs. You got ya' a good deal on yours Schurkey!
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Polkie2009 wrote: »That case design on the 8008BB is a solid sender, plus you have to love the balanced inputs. You got ya' a good deal on yours Schurkey!
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Thanks for all the input and advice.
I had emailed Indy Labs but I never got a response back regarding my questions.
Funds are a bit limited right now so the Dreadnought option will not be an option right now.
Guess I can try to strap the two negative posts on the 8008BB and give it a try. -
Thanks for all the input and advice.
I had emailed Indy Labs but I never got a response back regarding my questions.
Funds are a bit limited right now so the Dreadnought option will not be an option right now.
Guess I can try to strap the two negative posts on the 8008BB and give it a try. -
@Schurkey
I bought my 8008BB and 8008x3 way back when Mondial was the owners and have loved both amps ever since.
I'm running into the RCA inputs only on my 8008BB, Do I need to do anything to the XLR inputs?
Any advice?
Thanks much... I'm so looking forward to this weekend. -
I'm running into the RCA inputs only on my 8008BB, Do I need to do anything to the XLR inputs?
The XLR inputs require a shorting bar between two of the three sockets in each connector. The amps come with these bars installed. By "bars", I mean a short, U-shaped piece of solid-core copper wire that poke into the individual pin sockets.
I forget for the moment which two pins need to be jumpered...but...I have every expectation that you've already got these jumpers in place in the XLR connectors.
One of my used amps came to me without these bars. I suppose the previous owner used the XLR connectors instead of the RCA connectors. I made replacements from the ground wire in a piece of scrap household electrical wiring. Might have been 14 gauge "Romex", and probably less-than-one-inch pieces bent to fit. -
Sorry, I didn't see this thread until now.
I used to own an Aragon 8008bb made by Mondial (I sold it though). Schurkey is correct. the 8008bb would go into protection mode over and over with my 3.1TL's without using an AI-1. You will need an AI-1 to use the 8008bb with your 2B's (assuming your 2B's can use the AI-1, which most likely they can (if they have the pin/blade connection, definately they can).
Also, with your 8008bb when using the RCA inputs, you need the jumpers (as brought up before, I believe) in between pins 1 and 3 of each XLR jack. It is required for proper functon.
I hope this helps.
Edit: You can also "strap" the grounds on the binding posts, but it reduces the audio quality. I highly recommend the AI-1 instead.
Taken from a recent Audioholics reply regarding "Club Polk" and Polk speakers:
"I'm yet to hear a Polk speaker that merits more than a sentence and 60 seconds discussion."
My response is: If you need 60 seconds to respond in one sentence, you probably should't be evaluating Polk speakers.....
"Green leaves reveal the heart spoken Khatru"- Jon Anderson
"Have A Little Faith! And Everything You'll Face, Will Jump From Out Right On Into Place! Yeah! Take A Little Time! And Everything You'll Find, Will Move From Gloom Right On Into Shine!"- Arthur Lee -
You will need an AI-1 to use the 8008bb with your 2B's (assuming your 2B's can use the AI-1, which most likely they can (if they have the pin/blade connection, definately they can).You can also "strap" the grounds on the binding posts, but it reduces the audio quality. I highly recommend the AI-1 instead.
One wonders how an AI-1 compares to a single conductor of equivalent or larger gauge size (Let's say 14- or 12-gauge) run between the negative terminals of the SPEAKER instead of the negative terminals of the amplifier. Connecting at the speaker would require a much longer wire than at the amplifier, but removes the lengths of speaker wire from that part of the circuit--in other words, common-grounding directly at the speaker may actually be more "direct" than common-grounding at the amp. This is something I CAN try, and probably will in the next week or so. -
...
One wonders how an AI-1 compares to a single conductor of equivalent or larger gauge size (Let's say 14- or 12-gauge) run between the negative terminals of the SPEAKER instead of the negative terminals of the amplifier.- SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
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One wonders how an AI-1 compares to a single conductor of equivalent or larger gauge size (Let's say 14- or 12-gauge) run between the negative terminals of the SPEAKER instead of the negative terminals of the amplifier. Connecting at the speaker would require a much longer wire than at the amplifier, but removes the lengths of speaker wire from that part of the circuit--in other words, common-grounding directly at the speaker may actually be more "direct" than common-grounding at the amp. This is something I CAN try, and probably will in the next week or so.
Why would this not be considered a direct short? It would still not have the needed ground at the amp? -
MORE MYSTERY now...
I was originally told by the seller that the SDAs were early SDA-2B... BUT I have not confirmed it yet.
Would the situation change any if my speakers were SDA-2A?
I understand that the AI-1 and Dreadnought might not be an option for SDA-2A?
Can I still strap the neg posts on my Aragon for SDA-2A?
Thanks again. -
MORE MYSTERY now...
I was originally told by the seller that the SDAs were early SDA-2B... BUT I have not confirmed it yet.
Would the situation change any if my speakers were SDA-2A?
I understand that the AI-1 and Dreadnought might not be an option for SDA-2A?
Can I still strap the neg posts on my Aragon for SDA-2A?
Thanks again.
Nope SDA2a are a harder speaker to drive There is no A1 for Blade/Blade interconnect as BOTH large and small blades carry signal. SDA2a are 4ohm and dip lower into 3 possibly lower.
Yes the situation would change and not for the better.... -
I was under the impression that the AI-1 was an isolation transformer. If so I don't believe a length of wire would be an equivalent to it, or a replacement for it, no matter what gauge wire you use.Why would this not be considered a direct short? It would still not have the needed ground at the amp?
My comments are in relation to those who say the AI-1/Dreadnought "sounds better" than a foot of plain wire of suitable guage at the back of the amp. I'm wondering if the difference is the inclusion of the full length of speaker cable in the SDA circuit versus providing a common ground directly at the speaker terminals.MORE MYSTERY now...
I was originally told by the seller that the SDAs were early SDA-2B... BUT I have not confirmed it yet.
Would the situation change any if my speakers were SDA-2A?
I understand that the AI-1 and Dreadnought might not be an option for SDA-2A?
Can I still strap the neg posts on my Aragon for SDA-2A?Nope SDA2a are a harder speaker to drive There is no A1 for Blade/Blade interconnect as BOTH large and small blades carry signal. SDA2a are 4ohm and dip lower into 3 possibly lower.
Yes the situation would change and not for the better....
With 2As, you will need the jumper wire, either between the amplifier negative terminals or between the speaker negative terminals. As said, the 2As aren't compatible with the AI-1 or Dreadnought version of the AI-1, so it's not a matter of whether you "can" strap the negative posts, that jumper wire is the only solution, and an absolute requirement.
Remember that early 2Bs will have the blade/blade interconnect sockets, but a minor modification to the speakers makes them fully AI-1/Dreadnought compatible. -
I will just say that when I was refering to the 2B's, I was assuming no alterations to them by the OP.
That said, it becomes a totally different story if they are 2A's and this has been addressed already.
Last, I have heard the differences between the AI-1 and strapping the negatives on the Aragon. I have done both and I know that the AI-1 sounds better.
Taken from a recent Audioholics reply regarding "Club Polk" and Polk speakers:
"I'm yet to hear a Polk speaker that merits more than a sentence and 60 seconds discussion."
My response is: If you need 60 seconds to respond in one sentence, you probably should't be evaluating Polk speakers.....
"Green leaves reveal the heart spoken Khatru"- Jon Anderson
"Have A Little Faith! And Everything You'll Face, Will Jump From Out Right On Into Place! Yeah! Take A Little Time! And Everything You'll Find, Will Move From Gloom Right On Into Shine!"- Arthur Lee -
I will just say that when I was refering to the 2B's, I was assuming no alterations to them by the OP.
That said, it becomes a totally different story if they are 2A's and this has been addressed already.
Last, I have heard the differences between the AI-1 and strapping the negatives on the Aragon. I have done both and I know that the AI-1 sounds better.