keep searching but not finding safe temp for xover soldering

BKphoto
BKphoto Posts: 409
edited May 2014 in DIY, Mods & Tweaks
I have a digital soldering station....what approx. temp is safe for the crossover....

Do you have a "rule of thumb"

Thanks
Marantz 1152 DC- Denon DP 1200, Soundsmith Carmen MKII- ADS L980 - Blue Jeans IC's
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  • agfrost
    agfrost Posts: 2,430
    edited March 2014
    Will depend on the solder you use, as they have different melting points. I don't have a digital one, so can't get you a number idea. It seems to me that higher temperatures (within reason) are better as they will heat the board/leads to/past the melting temp of your solder faster. Less time with heat on the work = better/safer for the components. Use a heat sink on the leads of resistors/caps for additional peace of mind. Remember that the component leads and board trace are heated directly, and not the solder.

    The good news for novice solderers (of which I am one!) is that crossover work is less delicate than PCB board-work on an amp, preamp, or source. Wider spacing of components, hardier traces that are less prone to lifting.

    If someone more experienced than I sees I've given any bad info here, feel free to put me in my place. :razz:
    Jay
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  • Conradicles
    Conradicles Posts: 6,092
    edited March 2014
    750 should do if your equipment is quality.
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  • BKphoto
    BKphoto Posts: 409
    edited March 2014
    thanks...perfect...
    Marantz 1152 DC- Denon DP 1200, Soundsmith Carmen MKII- ADS L980 - Blue Jeans IC's
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  • SCompRacer
    SCompRacer Posts: 8,505
    edited March 2014
    agfrost wrote: »
    Will depend on the solder you use, as they have different melting points.

    Jay is correct! Novice, I don't think so.....

    A chart showing melt temps of various alloys. My personal fav is Cardas Tri-Eutectic. Lead free is good for the environment going green and all, but if you ever have to de-solder a RoHS compliant solder, have a good desoldering pump like a Hako 808 handy.

    kester.jpg
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  • BKphoto
    BKphoto Posts: 409
    edited March 2014
    using desoldering iron...i like because its all in one hand...

    soldering iron is a Hakko FX-888D

    my garage is finally warm enough to work in...



    100 posts!
    Marantz 1152 DC- Denon DP 1200, Soundsmith Carmen MKII- ADS L980 - Blue Jeans IC's
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  • Zogs
    Zogs Posts: 8
    edited April 2014
    with all soldering projects it's best to start at 650 and work your way up if you do not get proper flow. Make sure not to apply pressure and count your dwell time. 5-8 seconds. If you don't get proper flow in that time up your temp to 700 then 750 ect. Tip size is important as well. If your tip is to small you will require more heat (bad), to big and you will also cause damage. Most electronic projects I use a 2.4 tip. For smaller parts 0402's I go smaller. Flux is your friend. Just be sure to clean it after. For a nice solder joint remember less is more ! you don't want a big glob of solder. Just enough so you have a nice fillet.

    Hope that helps.

    Journeyman electronics solder monkey.
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  • voltz
    voltz Posts: 5,384
    edited April 2014
    Hey BK

    I was thinking of trying some DIY kits, and getting Hakko FX-888D, and using some Kester 44 Rosin Core Solder 63/37 .031 for kits like the Bottlehead Crack amp, and picking up a 2.4 chisel tip? hows a set up like that sound?

    I do plan on a lot of practicing with the soldergun before i try it for real though :)
    2 ch- Polk CRS+ * Vincent SA-31MK Preamp * Vincent Sp-331 Amp * Marantz SA8005 SACD * Project Xperience Classic TT * Sumiko Blue Point #2 MC cartridge

    HT - Polk 703's * NAD T-758 * Adcom 5503 * Oppo 103 * Samsung 60" series 8 LCD
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  • Zogs
    Zogs Posts: 8
    edited April 2014
    That's the set up I use.
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  • BKphoto
    BKphoto Posts: 409
    edited May 2014
    Yeah we are in the same boat...

    I'm back to practicing to refine my technique more because my next project will be my amp...

    not as forgiving as a speaker crossover...
    Marantz 1152 DC- Denon DP 1200, Soundsmith Carmen MKII- ADS L980 - Blue Jeans IC's
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  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited May 2014
    I use 700 on my station.
    Jake
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  • voltz
    voltz Posts: 5,384
    edited May 2014
    Thanks all

    I saw a video of someone making the bottlehead crack amp and think he said he was using 700 also.
    2 ch- Polk CRS+ * Vincent SA-31MK Preamp * Vincent Sp-331 Amp * Marantz SA8005 SACD * Project Xperience Classic TT * Sumiko Blue Point #2 MC cartridge

    HT - Polk 703's * NAD T-758 * Adcom 5503 * Oppo 103 * Samsung 60" series 8 LCD
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  • Zogs
    Zogs Posts: 8
    edited May 2014
    Yea I watched that video, he does a pretty nice job. A couple small things to aim for when learning to solder is not to use as much solder as he does. When you tin your wires you want to do it so the lay of the wires is discernible in the solder and when you terminate them you should also be able to see it. Make sure after you terminate there is a 100% fillet between the wire and terminal when you are done. Around 14 min into the video he bends his wires connecting to the connector. This is a big no no. Have them come strait out of the connector. Once soldered hold your needle nose pliers where the wire connects and gently bend the wire around it leaving a small service/stress relieve loop. Is this all a little bit anal for this project ? Probably. But why not aim for class 3 (military,medical) required solder joints. Not only that but typing this out at work is a great time killer if anyones actually interested :)

    ohh and before I forget, a nice trick for soldering those types of connectors is cut a small piece of solder and lay it beside your wire inside the terminal. Add some flux and heat it from the back with a dry iron and you will have a perfect joint.
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  • voltz
    voltz Posts: 5,384
    edited May 2014
    very interested, maybe we need a thread for Soldering: Tips & Hints :)
    2 ch- Polk CRS+ * Vincent SA-31MK Preamp * Vincent Sp-331 Amp * Marantz SA8005 SACD * Project Xperience Classic TT * Sumiko Blue Point #2 MC cartridge

    HT - Polk 703's * NAD T-758 * Adcom 5503 * Oppo 103 * Samsung 60" series 8 LCD
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  • BKphoto
    BKphoto Posts: 409
    edited May 2014
    Zogs wrote: »
    Yea I watched that video, he does a pretty nice job. A couple small things to aim for when learning to solder is not to use as much solder as he does. When you tin your wires you want to do it so the lay of the wires is discernible in the solder and when you terminate them you should also be able to see it. Make sure after you terminate there is a 100% fillet between the wire and terminal when you are done. Around 14 min into the video he bends his wires connecting to the connector. This is a big no no. Have them come strait out of the connector. Once soldered hold your needle nose pliers where the wire connects and gently bend the wire around it leaving a small service/stress relieve loop. Is this all a little bit anal for this project ? Probably. But why not aim for class 3 (military,medical) required solder joints. Not only that but typing this out at work is a great time killer if anyones actually interested :)

    ohh and before I forget, a nice trick for soldering those types of connectors is cut a small piece of solder and lay it beside your wire inside the terminal. Add some flux and heat it from the back with a dry iron and you will have a perfect joint.


    keep these coming...
    Marantz 1152 DC- Denon DP 1200, Soundsmith Carmen MKII- ADS L980 - Blue Jeans IC's
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  • Zogs
    Zogs Posts: 8
    edited May 2014
    Here is a link with pictures and criteria for pretty much any type of connection you can think of.
    http://selteka.balt.net/x/LINPRA_mokymai_S.7.1/Reikalavimai%20PCB/IPC_Standartai/IPC-A-610D_Acceptability_of_Electronic_Assemblies.pdf

    Making your joints look like the ones in the pictures is just a matter of flux and practice now. You have all the right tools. Remember to clean your tip with the sponge or brass scrunchy every time you make a connection. And tin when you are not using it. Your tips will last longer and make clean joints. Hold the iron like you would hold a pen, apply no more pressure then that and count your dwell time 5-8 seconds.
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  • voltz
    voltz Posts: 5,384
    edited May 2014
    I downloaded that PDF to my hard drive :)
    2 ch- Polk CRS+ * Vincent SA-31MK Preamp * Vincent Sp-331 Amp * Marantz SA8005 SACD * Project Xperience Classic TT * Sumiko Blue Point #2 MC cartridge

    HT - Polk 703's * NAD T-758 * Adcom 5503 * Oppo 103 * Samsung 60" series 8 LCD
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