DC Trigger to older equipment without jack; only wire buss

msg
msg Posts: 10,125
Hey guys,
I'd like to utilize the DC trigger feature on the Halo C2 and have it turn on a Parasound 2205A. Easy enough when both units have jacks for this, but in this case, only the processor has a jack, and the amp only has the wire buss.

I thought I saw someone post about this a while ago, but I can't seem to find it in a forum search.

1. what kind of cable do I use? stereo 3.5mm?
2. presuming I snip one end off, how do I wire it to the buss?
I disabled signatures.
Post edited by msg on

Comments

  • ZLTFUL
    ZLTFUL Posts: 5,652
    edited March 2014
    3.5mm mono cable, and depending on the cable type and manufacturer, when you snip one end, the positive could be the center wire, the red wire or the white wire (assuming the other wire is black).
    "Some people find it easier to be conceited rather than correct."

    "Unwad those panties and have a good time man. We're all here to help each other, no matter how it might appear." DSkip
  • msg
    msg Posts: 10,125
    edited March 2014
    so can I just read those wires out with a multimeter with the processor powered up and the cable plugged in to determine which is which?
    I disabled signatures.
  • zane77
    zane77 Posts: 1,696
    edited March 2014
    That would be the best wat, just don't short them together.
    Home Theater
    Onkyo PR-SC5508 Sharp LC-70LE847U
    Emotiva XPA-5 Emotiva XPA-2 Emotiva UPA-2
    Front RTi-A9 Wide RTi-A7 Center CSi-A6 Surround FXi-A6 Rear RTi-A3 Sub 2x PSW505
    Sony BDP-S790 Dishnetwork Hopper/Joey Logitech Harmony One Apple TV
    Two Channel
    Oppo 105D BAT VK-500 w/BatPack SDA SRS 2.3 Dreadnought Squeezebox Touch Apple TV
  • msg
    msg Posts: 10,125
    edited March 2014
    zane77 wrote: »
    That would be the best wat, just don't short them together.
    meaning don't touch the wires together?
    can I still read across the pair directly to determine polarity?
    I disabled signatures.
  • zane77
    zane77 Posts: 1,696
    edited March 2014
    Yes...
    Home Theater
    Onkyo PR-SC5508 Sharp LC-70LE847U
    Emotiva XPA-5 Emotiva XPA-2 Emotiva UPA-2
    Front RTi-A9 Wide RTi-A7 Center CSi-A6 Surround FXi-A6 Rear RTi-A3 Sub 2x PSW505
    Sony BDP-S790 Dishnetwork Hopper/Joey Logitech Harmony One Apple TV
    Two Channel
    Oppo 105D BAT VK-500 w/BatPack SDA SRS 2.3 Dreadnought Squeezebox Touch Apple TV
  • Glen B
    Glen B Posts: 269
    edited March 2014
    msg wrote: »
    so can I just read those wires out with a multimeter with the processor powered up and the cable plugged in to determine which is which?
    Another (safer) option is to use the continuity setting on the multimeter. Connect one test lead probe to the tip of the jack and the other probe to each wire end. When you get a beep from the multimeter, that will indicate which wire is connected to the tip.
    Main System: Denon DP-59L | Audio-Technica AT33EV | Marantz SA-11S2 | Classe DR-10 | Classe CA-300 | Classe RC-1 | PSB Stratus Gold i's | DIY Balanced AC Power Conditioner | Acoustic Zen and NeoTech cables | Oyaide and Furutech power connectors | Dedicated 20A isolated ground line.

    Home Theater: Toshiba D-VR5SU | Laptop #1 |Outlaw Audio OAW3 wireless audio system | Marantz SR-19 | Phase Linear 400 Series 2, modified | AudioSource 10.1 EQ (for subs) | Axiom M3 v3’s | Axiom VP150 | Optimus PRO-X55AVs | Dayton 12” powered subs (x2) | Belkin PureAV PF-60 line conditioner.

    Party System: Laptop #2 | Audioquest Dragonfly USB DAC | Technics SU-A6 | Acurus A-250 | Radio Shack 15-band EQ | Pioneer SR-9 reverb | Cerwin Vega DX9's | Dayton 100° x 60° horns with titanium HF/MF compression drivers.
  • msg
    msg Posts: 10,125
    edited March 2014
    That makes sense. But how to determine what the tip sees from the processor?
    I disabled signatures.
  • zane77
    zane77 Posts: 1,696
    edited March 2014
    Just measure the voltage with your meter and be careful not to touch the leads or wires together, pretty simple.
    Home Theater
    Onkyo PR-SC5508 Sharp LC-70LE847U
    Emotiva XPA-5 Emotiva XPA-2 Emotiva UPA-2
    Front RTi-A9 Wide RTi-A7 Center CSi-A6 Surround FXi-A6 Rear RTi-A3 Sub 2x PSW505
    Sony BDP-S790 Dishnetwork Hopper/Joey Logitech Harmony One Apple TV
    Two Channel
    Oppo 105D BAT VK-500 w/BatPack SDA SRS 2.3 Dreadnought Squeezebox Touch Apple TV
  • Glen B
    Glen B Posts: 269
    edited March 2014
    msg wrote: »
    That makes sense. But how to determine what the tip sees from the processor?

    Polarity is usually tip positive. If processor and amp manufacturers wired triggers any old way (some tip positive, some negative), equipment would not be compatible from one brand to the next. Otherwise, everyone who bought new gear would be running around like chickens with their heads cut off, trying to find out if their preamp/receiver and amp triggers were compatible.
    Main System: Denon DP-59L | Audio-Technica AT33EV | Marantz SA-11S2 | Classe DR-10 | Classe CA-300 | Classe RC-1 | PSB Stratus Gold i's | DIY Balanced AC Power Conditioner | Acoustic Zen and NeoTech cables | Oyaide and Furutech power connectors | Dedicated 20A isolated ground line.

    Home Theater: Toshiba D-VR5SU | Laptop #1 |Outlaw Audio OAW3 wireless audio system | Marantz SR-19 | Phase Linear 400 Series 2, modified | AudioSource 10.1 EQ (for subs) | Axiom M3 v3’s | Axiom VP150 | Optimus PRO-X55AVs | Dayton 12” powered subs (x2) | Belkin PureAV PF-60 line conditioner.

    Party System: Laptop #2 | Audioquest Dragonfly USB DAC | Technics SU-A6 | Acurus A-250 | Radio Shack 15-band EQ | Pioneer SR-9 reverb | Cerwin Vega DX9's | Dayton 100° x 60° horns with titanium HF/MF compression drivers.
  • skrol
    skrol Posts: 3,387
    edited March 2014
    Do you use a power conditioner that has switched outlets? I am using a Monster HTS-3600II what has 110V AC trigger and 3-30V DC trigger to control some of the outlets including the power amp. In my cast, my preamp (Parasound C/PT-600) does not have a DC trigger out so I use one of the switched 110V AC outlets on back of the C/PT-600 preamp to trigger the power conditioner outlets to turn on the HCA-800II.
    Stan
    Stan

    Main 2ch:
    Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

    HT:
    Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
    Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601
  • msg
    msg Posts: 10,125
    edited March 2014
    Glen B wrote: »
    Polarity is usually tip positive. If processor and amp manufacturers wired triggers any old way (some tip positive, some negative), equipment would not be compatible from one brand to the next. Otherwise, everyone who bought new gear would be running around like chickens with their heads cut off, trying to find out if their preamp/receiver and amp triggers were compatible.
    cool, thanks Glen.
    skrol wrote: »
    Do you use a power conditioner that has switched outlets? I am using a Monster HTS-3600II what has 110V AC trigger and 3-30V DC trigger to control some of the outlets including the power amp. In my cast, my preamp (Parasound C/PT-600) does not have a DC trigger out so I use one of the switched 110V AC outlets on back of the C/PT-600 preamp to trigger the power conditioner outlets to turn on the HCA-800II.
    Stan
    Hey Stan,
    yeah, I do, a refurbed Panamax something or other, and I'm using it right now, powering up/down with the power button that controls the switched outlets. ahhh, interesting idea - I do seem to recall that mine has DC trigger jacks on it, too, so I'll have a closer look to see whether I can control it in the way you're describing.
    I disabled signatures.
  • mufsoman
    mufsoman Posts: 632
    edited April 2014
    I have a similar situation with the recent purchase of a Parasound HCA-1500A amp. My SC07 has a mini plug socket for the 12v trigger, the 1500A has a wire buss. But on the 1500A the two connections on the buss are labeled as "12v" and "ground". So if the tip of the plug is positive, then does that correlate to "12v" or "ground"? I have a 50/50 chance of connecting it right. Will either piece of equipment be damaged if I guess wrong???
    Parasound HCA-2003A & 2205A
    Front: Rti12's
    Center: Csi A6
    Side surrounds: Polk Rti A1's
    Atmos: Mirage Nanosats
    APC H15
    Power cords by Pepster, Morrow MA4 IC's, AQ Midnight, AQ Chocolate HDMI's[/SIZE]
    The rest is TBD.
  • DracoAmericanus
    DracoAmericanus Posts: 112
    edited April 2014
    The tip is almost always positive, and the ring (lower part of the 3.5mm jack) being ground, if your not sure use a meter and check it, do not allow the wires to touch each other, to be truthful it's a very easy test
    There is no cure....
    Luxman M117, SDA SRS 2.3, rear monitor 10, back rear bose 4.2, valodyne sub and 2 Onkyo m-504 amps Onkyo TX-NR709
    8mm, 7.62x39mm