Question: why Hurricane nuts instead of Tee Nuts

SciFiTom

Are the hurricane nuts stouter that tee nuts? I would think that tee nuts would alleviate concerns about the nuts backing out while assembling the speakers. What am I missing?

westmassguy

If installed properly, hurricane nuts are much more secure than t-nuts

TennMan

SciFiTom wrote: »

Are the hurricane nuts stouter that tee nuts? I would think that tee nuts would alleviate concerns about the nuts backing out while assembling the speakers. What am I missing?

The key to installing the h-nuts is too get the hole properly sized so the body of the h-nut fits tight enough that you have to pull the h-nut into the hole with a screw. Do not try to drive them into the holes with a hammer. I have the h-nuts in my speakers and they work great.

The tapered barbs on the t-nuts will not stay embedded in particle board type materials. Maybe the first time you use them but after repeated use they will come loose.


hurricane nut

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tee nut

SciFiTom

TennMan, the pictures you provided explain the matter perfectly. I thought I saw just a bulge at the tip on an image I saw elsewhere, not the crimps shown in your pictures. The back plate also looks thicker than the tee nuts.

Thank you, Gentlemen

SciFiTom

Oops, Westmassguy said "if installed properly." Would that mean by pressing them with a screw, and getting the hole diameter correct, or does one need to find a method to turn the H-nuts in following the crimps?

westmassguy

Properly means using the exact drill size listed for the H-Nut you're using. The #8-32 requires a 13/64" bit. I use three drill bits to enlarge the hole slowly. Start with a 1/8", and it will follow the original screw hole. Use low speed. Then switch to an 11/64", then finally the 13/64'. If you try to drill out the 13/64" you risk splitting the particle board, or blowing out a chunk on the back side. I use a 8-32 X 1" or 1 1/4" Phillips machine screw with a 1/2" diameter washer under it. Hold the H-Nut under the hole, hand thread the machine screw to start, then use a variable speed drill to SLOWLY thread the screw, and draw the H-Nut up into the hole. As soon as it bottoms out, your done. Don't over tighten, the sound of the drill will tell you when the H-Nut is set. The washer keeps the screw head from sinking into the particle board.

F1nut

Adding to the fray, T-nuts will destroy the thin particle board or MDF on the basket mounting flanges.

westmassguy

Like this:

TennMan

If you want to go to the extra trouble you can do a neater job with the h-nuts if you remove the part of the h-nut marked with an X in the photo below. That way the h-nut won't protrude into the holes for the drivers.

The way I did it was to clamp the part with the red X in a vice, thread a long screw (to use as a lever) into the h-nut and rock it back and forth a few times until that portion of the flange snaps off. File down the rough edges and you are ready to install.

SciFiTom

F1nut wrote: »

Adding to the fray, T-nuts will destroy the thin particle board or MDF on the basket mounting flanges.

Agreed, and understood. Thank you for the comment. I see the Truth of it.

TennMan:
"If you want to go to the extra trouble you can do a neater job with the h-nuts if you remove the part of the h-nut marked with an X in the photo below. That way the h-nut won't protrude into the holes for the drivers."

I was wondering about that. I'd think this would be mandatory for people who've added damping material to the baskets.

Westmassguy:

again you've taken the trouble to thoroughly spell out your thoughts. Most gracious, and thanks for clarifying a number of points along the way. I thought of the washer all by myself, though.

Appreciatively,
Tom

F1nut

Go point Tennman, it does make for a cleaner install.

When I installed Hurricane nuts on my RTiA's I used a Dremel with a cut off wheel to remove the portion you marked with an X.

To anyone doing this, when you go to install the altered Hurricane nut, line up the nut with the cut off area flush with the flange, then rotate it counter clockwise about 1/4" before you draw it in with the screw as the nut will rotate clockwise. This will ensure the cut off area will be flush with the flange when it's seated.

SciFiTom

F1nut wrote: »

Go point Tennman, it does make for a cleaner install.

When I installed Hurricane nuts on my RTiA's I used a Dremel with a cut off wheel to remove the portion you marked with an X.

To anyone doing this, when you go to install the altered Hurricane nut, line up the nut with the cut off area flush with the flange, then rotate it counter clockwise about 1/4" before you draw it in with the screw as the nut will rotate clockwise. This will ensure the cut off area will be flush with the flange when it's seated.

I was wondering about this point. Thank you for citing specific values. I presume the directions are as viewed from outside the cabinet.

F1nut

Yes.

rekterx

Well, well, well .... would you lookie here? My hurricane nut questions have been asked and answered .... in detail!

This place is a wonder of wonders.

Westmass .... you da man! And thank you TennMan for the pics.

rekterx

And thanks F1 for the additional tip on installation.

westmassguy

I've cut a flat on them with tin snips too

TennMan

Good tip from F1 about rotating the h-nut a few degrees before inserting into the hole so it will be aligned correctly when tightened up. I had forgotten bout doing that.

Here's a look at an h-nut that has been modified:

bugsnt

Thanks guys... I'm thinking of upgrading my Polks and this thread is most helpful.

teekay0007

Can anybody share the pluses and minuses of using any kind of glue with the hurricane nuts? It seems like it would give a nice, solid hold, but is it necessary?

westmassguy

The big risk, is accidentally getting the glue on the internal threads. If they're done properly, there's no need for any glue. If the hole becomes enlarged for some reason, take a Q-Tip, wet it, and swab the hole, then let it dry overnight. The particle board or MDF will swell, and the hurricane nut will go back in tight.

rekterx

Westmass says that he uses a 1" or 1 1/4" screw with a washer to seat the h-nuts. Is this what I should also use to reinstall the speakers? Or is a shorter piece in order?

westmassguy

1" is fine for the drivers

rekterx

Muchas gracias.

verb

westmassguy wrote: »

Properly means using the exact drill size listed for the H-Nut you're using. The #8-32 requires a 13/64" bit. I use three drill bits to enlarge the hole slowly. Start with a 1/8", and it will follow the original screw hole. Use low speed. Then switch to an 11/64", then finally the 13/64'. If you try to drill out the 13/64" you risk splitting the particle board, or blowing out a chunk on the back side. I use a 8-32 X 1" or 1 1/4" Phillips machine screw with a 1/2" diameter washer under it. Hold the H-Nut under the hole, hand thread the machine screw to start, then use a variable speed drill to SLOWLY thread the screw, and draw the H-Nut up into the hole. As soon as it bottoms out, your done. Don't over tighten, the sound of the drill will tell you when the H-Nut is set. The washer keeps the screw head from sinking into the particle board.

i know this an older post, but shout out to @westmassguy for details on how to properly install hurricane nuts. About to embark on this journey !!!

Rrusse11

My hurricane nuts, dynamat clone, butyl bedding compound, et al, (banana plugs etc), arrived yesterday from Parts-Express. 100 #8-32 x 3/4" SS, 50 #8-32 x 1", SS PH screws should come through the mail slot today. With a pair of 2.3s to do, I've got 96 of the Hnuts to install.
The RTA 12s are "only" 40, I got the 1" for them, less of a rebate on those cabinets.
Clipping the Hnut flange makes for a neater install, though I'm not convinced it's necessary provided it's not fouling the speaker baskets. I'll dig out the tin snips
and if they cut ez may well try the trim. I'm also thinking a dab of yellow glue (titebond) on the Hnut will help to firm up the particle board and prevent stripping the nut for the long term.

Also a sheet of the 1 1/4" sonic foam, any recommendations on where to install on the 2.3s? I'm thinking behind the drivers, but not the pair of subwoofer drivers?
And not behind the PR in the bottom of the cabinet.

Cheers,
R*2

verb

My snips. Cut very well. Larger size handles increased the leverage when cutting.

F1nut

What is the butyl bedding compound for and exactly what is it?

Rrusse11

F1nut wrote: »

What is the butyl bedding compound for and exactly what is it?

F1,

It's a permanently flexible bedding compound, butyl rubber. Not a glue, but a sealant that can be used as an air or water gasket, and can be dis-assembled. Good
stuff on metal roofing, plumbing, boats, on low stress joints. Somewhere on these boards there's a bit by Mathew Polk that they used mortite? , a window and door sealant. Roll it into a thin round bead and apply to the rebate in the speaker cabinet. Tighten carefully and evenly and it should form into a thin bedding gasket. When I've got my Hnuts installed, I'll be setting all my speakers in it. Performs the same function as the foam gaskets on the inside lip of the drivers.

Easily worked by hand, it never hardens, great stuff in the right application, and cheap.

Cheers,
R*2

pitdogg2

STOP !!!! There is a reason mortite is no longer advocated. At some point you will want to take a driver out. Not only will that be very hard with mortite but it very well may take chunks of the cabinet with it.
Armacell pipe tape works very well and will allow you to remove the driver if need be EASY.

If that stuff you're using is anything like mortite do not use it

verb

Agree with @pitdogg2 ! There seems a time in CP when Mortite was all the rage but do to the serviceability issues (horror) mentioned above is not the favored sealant anymore.

Armacell is now preferred!

TennMan

Rrusse11 wrote: »

I'll dig out the tin snips
and if they cut ez may well try the trim. I'm also thinking a dab of yellow glue (titebond) on the Hnut will help to firm up the particle board and prevent stripping the nut for the long term.

If you have a bench vice you can remove part of the h-nut without using tin snips. Put the part of the h-nut to be removed (marked in red in the photo) in the jaws of the vice. Then run a long screw in the h-nut to use as a lever. Work the body of the h-nut up and down using the screw as a handle until the edge breaks off. Dress up the edge with a file and you're done.

Using glue to hold the h-nut to the particle board might be a mistake. If you cross thread one of the screws and mess up the h-nut threads you might need to replace the h-nut. It's not too hard to do that. Ask me how I know.