Monitor 11B's

jb2c

Can anyone tell me if Polk made a Monitor 11B? I recall checking on this some years ago when I bought these speakers. The
speakers were advertised as Monitor 10's when I bought them, but they're not. I know they made Monitor 11's for a couple of
years. Maybe 1985 and 1986. But those had a 10" driver. Mine is a 12" radiator.

I'm thinking about selling these, and want to be sure I advertise them correctly.

Thanks.

pitdogg2

http://www.polksda.com/monitor11.shtml


http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=273182

sorry man its all i got

westmassguy

There are two PDFs for the Monitor 11: http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?38755-POLK-AUDIO-Speaker-Wiring-Schematics-amp-More-ALL-MODELS-except-SDA
Not typical Polk schematics, but they do show the component placement and values.

TennMan

Depending on the drivers they used, you might only need the same crossovers boards and terminal cups as a 2B or CRS+ to have a nice pair of SDAs. The crossover boards (as well as caps and resistors), and upgraded inductors are readily available. All you would have to do is mount them and you're good to go.

F1nut

Can anyone tell me if Polk made a Monitor 11B?

No, just the Monitor 11.

I know they made Monitor 11's for a couple of
years. Maybe 1985 and 1986. But those had a 10" driver. Mine is a 12" radiator.

The early version came with a smaller PR, the later version came with the 12" PR.

Depending on the drivers they used, you might only need the same crossovers boards and terminal cups as a 2B or CRS+ to have a nice pair of SDAs.

Won't work, very different crossovers and drivers.

JPete

I recently acquired a pair of Model 11 RTAs. 1982 production. "Model 11 Reference Series Monitor Real Time Array(R.T.A. 11) is what the original manual that came with them states. They are labeled left and right, and upon opening them up the outside midbass driver on each speaker has no foam baffling behind it, where the inside drivers do. The outside driver is also wired off of the inside midbass for the hotwire. I can't imagine how the drivers would receive different crossover frequencies when driven in series and not separately to the crossover. So I guess the addition of foam behind one driver does something special to driver response that merits left and right? Anyway... They've got poked hole dome Peerless tweeters and MW-6600x drivers with the full face 12" passive.

Would an SDA crossover swap and interconnect addition make these things perform like a true SDA? I'm doubtful, but curious. They already sound better than my Monitor 10Bs with the RDO 194 upgrade, although not by much.

westmassguy

JPete wrote: »

I recently acquired a pair of Model 11 RTAs. 1982 production. "Model 11 Reference Series Monitor Real Time Array(R.T.A. 11) is what the original manual that came with them states. They are labeled left and right, and upon opening them up the outside midbass driver on each speaker has no foam baffling behind it, where the inside drivers do. The outside driver is also wired off of the inside midbass for the hotwire. I can't imagine how the drivers would receive different crossover frequencies when driven in series and not separately to the crossover. So I guess the addition of foam behind one driver does something special to driver response that merits left and right? Anyway... They've got poked hole dome Peerless tweeters and MW-6600x drivers with the full face 12" passive.

Would an SDA crossover swap and interconnect addition make these things perform like a true SDA? I'm doubtful, but curious. They already sound better than my Monitor 10Bs with the RDO 194 upgrade, although not by much.

Theoretically, you could use a SDA-2A or 1986 CRS+ crossover (they're identical). They both used identical 8 ohm nominal drivers for the stereo and dimensional woofers. I don't have the T/S parameters for the 6600X, so I can't tell you how they match up with the 6510s. You could also use a SDA-2B or 1987 CRS+ crossover, and acquire new woofers, but there's no way to tell if the PR is weighted properly for the different woofers, or if the cabinet volume is close enough.

JPete

westmassguy wrote: »

Theoretically, you could use a SDA-2A or 1986 CRS+ crossover (they're identical). They both used identical 8 ohm nominal drivers for the stereo and dimensional woofers. I don't have the T/S parameters for the 6600X, so I can't tell you how they match up with the 6510s. You could also use a SDA-2B or 1987 CRS+ crossover, and acquire new woofers, but there's no way to tell if the PR is weighted properly for the different woofers, or if the cabinet volume is close enough.

Since I've never seen the inside of the CRS or SDA-2, I'm curious about the midbass wiring from the crossover. Is each midbass run from the crossover separately? Are there different frequencies and rolloffs for inside and outside drivers? Who feels like explaining what the SDA interconnect cable actually does electronically? That should be a good read...

Also, I've read that some SDAs used mw-6600x drivers, and that the specs for 6501, 6503, 6510 and 6600 are all similar enough to interchange. Someone will contradict that very sternly I'm sure. I'll personally be replacing the two "outer" 6600s with new, Mexican made(I'm assuming), 6503s from Polk. 1 was frozen due to the magnet shifting before I picked them up and the PVC jig fix that so many have tried and accomplished didn't leave me feeling too warm and fuzzy. The voice coil was pretty scratched up inside. I think the PO was still playing them with the frozen driver making a terrible noise.

westmassguy

I'd suggest getting your learn on about what SDAs are, and what the various drivers do. Download and study the SDA Handbook: http://vr3mods.com/uploads/SDA_Handbook_2011_Rev2.pdf
Then download the SDA-2A and or the 1986 CRS+ Schematics here: http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?55888-POLK-AUDIO-Speaker-Wiring-Schematics-amp-More-Stereo-Dimensional-Array(SDA)
The Handbook will explain SDA, and show the differences between the generations.

JPete

Great links. I appreciate you giving me those.

Since I'm typing on this already.... Does anybody have a good condition MW-6600x that they can part with for a decent price? I can't find any on the auction sites or through an in depth CL search I did. That would really make my day.

westmassguy

Your best bet is eBay. They pop up every now and then, just make sure the seller packs them well.
Do keep in mind, if you pursue this "Franken-Polk", many senior members will undoubtedly verbally harass you, kick you to the curb, or even hunt you down and go after your family. I however believe, they're your speakers to do with as you please. I did a "Franken-Polk" myself a couple years ago with a pair of Monitor 10s, as did several others on this forum. Re-sale value will be iffy, so I'd hold on to all the original parts that were removed.

JPete

I don't want to hack up the model 11s. I would prefer to find one 6600x and keep them stock. Couldn't find any replacements on ebay and Polk recommended the 6503s. I ordered a few to have at the house in case my ****ty shifted magnet fix doesn't last long and to have until I do find another 6600. The Model 11 studio reference monitor (R.T.A. 11) seems to be a pretty rare Polk model. Intent is to keep them stock... No need to hunt me down and beat me for that. I did upgrade the Monitor 10Bs I have to the RDO tweeters. I'll defend that decision against anyone. The SL2000s sounded like **** compared to the RDOs and now the 10s sound almost as good as my original Time Windows. Can't wait to hear an arguement about that comment...

westmassguy

I was being facetious.
The SL2000s god-awful. I can't bare them for more than a few minutes

JPete

I know. I see you have upgraded to 194s and 198s with a lot of money in nice caps and resistors. I didn't expect such an improvement by just swapping in the RDOs with no crossover upgrades. Since I'm skeptical of that stuff I figured I would not be happy with the money spent on tweeters. Man, I was wrong. Imaging and detail is so much better, not to mention the overall smoothness. I'm a sucker for soft dome and silk tweeters. I love the way the soft domes in my Paradigms sound, and I've even thrown some Dayton RS28-F silk domes in the car now. Tough to beat to my ears anyway..

westmassguy

Silk domes are great for sure. I used some Vifas in another project, and they were smooth as silk, pun intended.
Your 10s can sound even better with crossover upgrades, and cabinet enhancements. Everything is cumulative.
Doesn't have to be done all at once. I did my 2As incrementally, as I acquired discretionary funds.

pitdogg2

after 30+ years never ever think that new XO parts won't make a difference. They will nuff said. The electrolytic caps have a finite life span as they tend to shift and dry out so their original +/-20% tolerance really shifts and not for the good side. Also the new poly caps are 5% tolerance at worst. So you're 15%better right off the bat.

pitdogg2

get 10 post and PM geppy1 he had some 66oo's but be nice to him you might need him down the road and he is FULL of knowledge on many things Polk.

JPete

pitdogg2 wrote: »

get 10 post and PM geppy1 he had some 66oo's but be nice to him you might need him down the road and he is FULL of knowledge on many things Polk.

So I only need..

JPete

10 posts

JPete

to PM someone? Cool... Got it

F1nut

JPete wrote: »

I don't want to hack up the model 11s. I would prefer to find one 6600x and keep them stock.

Good man, those are rare speakers.

westmassguy

F1nut wrote: »

Good man, those are rare speakers.

He asked, I answered. There would be no "Hacking" involved, just a single 3/8" hole through the internal center brace to mount the other half of the crossover. A new SpeakOn jack could be mounted in the binding post cup for the interconnect cable. There would be no visible signs or modifications to the cabinet other then the single internal hole.
As I said, they're his speaker to do with as he pleases.

TennMan

westmassguy wrote: »

He asked, I answered. There would be no "Hacking" involved, just a single 3/8" hole through the internal center brace to mount the other half of the crossover. A new SpeakOn jack could be mounted in the binding post cup for the interconnect cable. There would be no visible signs or modifications to the cabinet other then the single internal hole.
As I said, they're his speaker to do with as he pleases.

I see nothing wrong with any of the things you describe. There seems to be a double standard here on the forum. The same people that find fault with mixing and matching parts between models to improve a speakers sound, have no problem with other modifications like installing aftermarket crossover boards, caps & resistors, steel rings, removing risers, installing spikes, etc. A modification is a modification. It doesn't matter if you are swapping factory parts between speaker models or using aftermarket parts, it is still a modification of the factory design. I see nothing wrong with either one if it achieves the goal of getting a better sound from the speaker that the owner likes. I think if people would be more open minded about swapping parts and experimenting - without damaging or hacking up the speakers - they would find that it takes the enjoyment and satisfaction of modifying their speakers to a higher level.

westmassguy

It's all a matter of perspective. I true purist would never dream of doing a majority of the modifications that we do. If the crossovers were originally equipped with Mylar and NP Electrolytics, then replacement parts would be the exact same type. Binding posts would be kept original, internal wiring would be inspected and retained, circuit boards would certainly never be replaced with an aftermarket part. Original Tweeters would also be retained.
Polk even "Hacked" literally, one of their own models, and gave out instructions for doing it. SDA-1 to 1A conversion.
Whatever floats your boat. Do the Mods, or keep it original. Nothing is set in stone.

pitdogg2

JPete wrote: »

Also, I've read that some SDAs used mw-6600x drivers, and that the specs for 6501, 6503, 6510 and 6600 are all similar enough to interchange. Someone will contradict that very sternly I'm sure. I'll personally be replacing the two "outer" 6600s with new, Mexican made(I'm assuming), 6503s from Polk. 1 was frozen due to the magnet shifting before I picked them up and the PVC jig fix that so many have tried and accomplished didn't leave me feeling too warm and fuzzy. The voice coil was pretty scratched up inside. I think the PO was still playing them with the frozen driver making a terrible noise.

I'm having problems with Polk Recommending 6503 as a replacement. My speakers also use MW6600 and the second generation of my speaker used all MW6501 as the MW6600 were no longer made but everything else was all the same XO wise. I'd call if you were to get a new one and talk to Kim Jasper or Helen both of them have been there forever and speak the truth.
my .02

westmassguy

pitdogg2 wrote: »

I'm having problems with Polk Recommending 6503 as a replacement. My speakers also use MW6600 and the second generation of my speaker used all MW6501 as the MW6600 were no longer made but everything else was all the same XO wise. I'd call if you were to get a new one and talk to Kim Jasper or Helen both of them have been there forever and speak the truth.
my .02

The 6600 and 6501s are no longer available. The 6501s are like hens teeth

JPete

pitdogg2 wrote: »

I'm having problems with Polk Recommending 6503 as a replacement. My speakers also use MW6600 and the second generation of my speaker used all MW6501 as the MW6600 were no longer made but everything else was all the same XO wise. I'd call if you were to get a new one and talk to Kim Jasper or Helen both of them have been there forever and speak the truth.
my .02

I talked with Helen and she recommended the 6503s to replace 6600s. I researched enough on here and AK to understand that this would happen anyway.. I ordered two just so I at least had a "mirrored" set until I find another 6600. My attempt at the PVC fix actually worked, but the voice coil looked pretty bad and it just didn't seem like the right thing to do(keeping the repaired driver in there). I'm sure one day I'll luck out and find a 6600, just like I found the guy selling the model 11s and talked him into trading them for a Samsung sound bar that my neighbor gave me when he moved... Hehe

JPete

westmassguy wrote: »

The 6600 and 6501s are no longer available. The 6501s are like hens teeth

My 10Bs have 6501s in them. Think I'd be better off sticking the new 6503s in the 10s and putting some 6501s in the 11s? Does anyone really think it makes a difference? I'm starting to think not..

F1nut

TennMan wrote: »

I see nothing wrong with any of the things you describe. There seems to be a double standard here on the forum. The same people that find fault with mixing and matching parts between models to improve a speakers sound, have no problem with other modifications like installing aftermarket crossover boards, caps & resistors, steel rings, removing risers, installing spikes, etc. A modification is a modification. It doesn't matter if you are swapping factory parts between speaker models or using aftermarket parts, it is still a modification of the factory design. I see nothing wrong with either one if it achieves the goal of getting a better sound from the speaker that the owner likes. I think if people would be more open minded about swapping parts and experimenting - without damaging or hacking up the speakers - they would find that it takes the enjoyment and satisfaction of modifying their speakers to a higher level.

Modifying a speaker to enhance the original design is one thing. Altering a speaker into something it was never intended to be is quite another.

pitdogg2

westmassguy wrote: »

The 6600 and 6501s are no longer available. The 6501s are like hens teeth

according to the current production drivers Mark put up the 6501's are listed.

http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?118471-Current-Production-Drivers-Vintage-Support

that is news to me that 6501 was no longer made....I have two from the 90's that are new production.

6600 come up all the time on eBay....buyer beware as slippage could occur in shipping

Jimbo18

How about Monitor 11T's, is that another version. Some just popped up on a South Carolina CL for sale.

http://greenville.craigslist.org/ele/4328749704.html

T for Tower maybe because they look a lot different than the 10's did.