Need suggestions on New Front Door
drumminman
Posts: 3,396
As some of you know my house was broken into on 1/28. The thieves kicked in a panel on the front door. Working with the insurance company now, who will only pay to replace with a like door. Seems like a bad idea to me since it was so easy to kick it in, so I'd like to go with something stronger.
From what I've read Fiberglass doors are good but they'll crack with several hard blows. Steel is what I'm thinking, something like a Pro Via, but they're damned expensive. I have the damaged door still in place fortified with a sheet of 3/4" construction grade plywood spanning the stiles and bottom rail, attached with screws. Strong but ugly!
Open to any suggestions.
From what I've read Fiberglass doors are good but they'll crack with several hard blows. Steel is what I'm thinking, something like a Pro Via, but they're damned expensive. I have the damaged door still in place fortified with a sheet of 3/4" construction grade plywood spanning the stiles and bottom rail, attached with screws. Strong but ugly!
Open to any suggestions.
"Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
Post edited by drumminman on
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I know what you trying to do here....but you still have windows right?
A good steel door is pricey but also remember to get extra long strike plate and put a good hard wood behind it so the extra long screws go into that instead of the air behind the door jamb rough opening. -
two well placed shots with a shotgun and your in good grief. -
Solid steel door with embossed panels, no true rail/stile/panels. Then have whoever installs it fortify the door frame with any of the security products that are out there. These reinforce the lock/deadbolt side so they are not so easily kicked in. These are pretty reasonable to install at the same time you put in a new door. They are a b$tch to retrofit to an existing door.DKG999
HT System: LSi9, LSiCx2, LSiFX, LSi7, SVS 20-39 PC+, B&K 507.s2 AVR, B&K Ref 125.2, Tripplite LCR-2400, Cambridge 650BD, Signal Cable PC/SC, BJC IC, Samsung 55" LED
Music System: Magnepan 1.6QR, SVS SB12+, ARC pre, Parasound HCA1500 vertically bi-amped, Jolida CDP, Pro-Ject RM5.1SE TT, Pro-Ject TubeBox SE phono pre, SBT, PS Audio DLIII DAC -
Brand/model names?"Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
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Locks and doors for that matter only keep the honest people out. That is a quote from a locksmith I know. My suggestion is that you can only do so much to reinforce the perimeter but maybe some surveillance might deter or catch the perps. Just my .02
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drumminman wrote: »Brand/model names?
I'm not sure what brands are available in your area. You're in the home state for Lowes, so I would start there. For the secured doors I have installed, I make my own reinforcements out of 1/4" steel.DKG999
HT System: LSi9, LSiCx2, LSiFX, LSi7, SVS 20-39 PC+, B&K 507.s2 AVR, B&K Ref 125.2, Tripplite LCR-2400, Cambridge 650BD, Signal Cable PC/SC, BJC IC, Samsung 55" LED
Music System: Magnepan 1.6QR, SVS SB12+, ARC pre, Parasound HCA1500 vertically bi-amped, Jolida CDP, Pro-Ject RM5.1SE TT, Pro-Ject TubeBox SE phono pre, SBT, PS Audio DLIII DAC -
Most steel doors are only foam once you get past the skin. Better steel doors have a good chunk of wood around the whole perimeter or used to. Steel door and a wrought iron security door would go a long way as you can dead bolt both.
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Tough break.
Depends on what your looking for. Many people simply go to the local store and purchase something labeled "steel door", and sleep a little better at night. Problem is that these doors are exactly that, doors made with steel panels, designed to be long lasting with minimal care, under normal use.
Do a web search for high security doors, and you'll understand that there really isn't much difference between a solid wood door and steel doors. -
I wouldn't guess it matters much. If a thief wants in he will find a way. If it were me I would just replace it with whatever the insurance is paying for. Are you going to board up the windows too? I have a steel door, but with the glass sidelights it sure wouldn't slow anyone down if they really wanted in. I would go the security system route, if your really concerned. Or just put the ADT sign out front.Oh, Listen here mister. We got no way of understandin' this world. But we got as much sense of this bird flyin in the sky. Now there is a lot that bird don't know, but it don't change the fact that the world is happening to him all the same. What I am tryin to say is, is that the course of your life, well its changing, and you don't even see it- Forest Bondurant
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I was in your shoes a few short months ago, my heart goes out to you brother. It'll take a week or few, but you will get your sense of security back, or whatever the emotion is.
Good luck. -
jeremymarcinko wrote: »I wouldn't guess it matters much. If a thief wants in he will find a way. If it were me I would just replace it with whatever the insurance is paying for. Are you going to board up the windows too? I have a steel door, but with the glass sidelights it sure wouldn't slow anyone down if they really wanted in.
Exactly my thoughts.If you can't hear a difference, don't waste your money. -
So you re-inforce the entryway and put bars on the windows----the thieves can just cut a hole in the side of the house with a chainsaw. They used to do this in some of the nicer subdivisions around Pittsburgh, probably still do.Vinyl, the final frontier...
Avantgarde horns, 300b tubes, thats the kinda crap I want... -
So you re-inforce the entryway and put bars on the windows----the thieves can just cut a hole in the side of the house with a chainsaw. They used to do this in some of the nicer subdivisions around Pittsburgh, probably still do.
LOL...a chainsaw ? What...your neighborhoods all drugged up and sleeping all day ? Who wouldn't notice a chainsaw ?
Get a regular door that insurance would pay for. Then ask if you'd get a discount if you put up camera's tied to your cell phone to monitor. If someone wants in that bad, you won't stop them. But if you know about it that second, it may help to catch the bastages.HT SYSTEM-
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I know a guy that has a couple boxers that will let anyone in the front door, but then guard the doors and not let them leave until their owner gives the word.Oh, Listen here mister. We got no way of understandin' this world. But we got as much sense of this bird flyin in the sky. Now there is a lot that bird don't know, but it don't change the fact that the world is happening to him all the same. What I am tryin to say is, is that the course of your life, well its changing, and you don't even see it- Forest Bondurant
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18 volt DeWalt sawzall, and an extra battery. I saw a demonstration where it took under 10 minutes for them to cut a hole in the side of a house. Just pick a spot and go at it.DKG999
HT System: LSi9, LSiCx2, LSiFX, LSi7, SVS 20-39 PC+, B&K 507.s2 AVR, B&K Ref 125.2, Tripplite LCR-2400, Cambridge 650BD, Signal Cable PC/SC, BJC IC, Samsung 55" LED
Music System: Magnepan 1.6QR, SVS SB12+, ARC pre, Parasound HCA1500 vertically bi-amped, Jolida CDP, Pro-Ject RM5.1SE TT, Pro-Ject TubeBox SE phono pre, SBT, PS Audio DLIII DAC -
jeremymarcinko wrote: »I know a guy that has a couple boxers that will let anyone in the front door, but then guard the doors and not let them leave until their owner gives the word.
This is my choice as well. A/C service guy pulled in the driveway then got into the back of his truck and our dog wouldn't let him out of it. She's an "outside dog" and has the shock collar that keeps her in our yard, but you have to guess where the perimeter is! Normally she's quiet until you're in her space. -
Get a regular door that insurance would pay for. Then ask if you'd get a discount if you put up camera's tied to your cell phone to monitor. If someone wants in that bad, you won't stop them. But if you know about it that second, it may help to catch the bastages.
Planning to do this - motion activated cameras with cell phone app so I can monitor during the day. May just go with a regular door like what I had and do a little reinforcing on my own. Also, will probably leave the big dogs inside on random days.
Thanks for all the tips and suggestions!"Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer -
Sorry I'm late to this discussion, but I'll try and add a bit to it.
Its hard to use outdoor cameras for anything but recording and manually checking in on them. While they all have motion alarms you can set, the sun going behind a cloud will trigger the cameras motion alarm. It would be best if you can get a camera(s) that works with a trigger also. Such as a IR beam that gets broken, or a door mat with a pressure sensitive pad underneath, that will trigger the alarm and start the recording. That is unless your going with a system that will record at all times, then it won't matter.
Its much easier to set triggers / alarms on indoor cameras.
You might also consider a security screen door such as these from Titan ( http://www.titansecurity.com/laserdoors.html ). They are expensive but it's mostly about deterrence, to make them think about how long it will take. If you have glass on the side(s) of your door, then the screen would be a waste.
They do have several do it yourself security systems that are out now and then you can just pick your monitoring company, and you will get an insurance break with a monitored system. The motion sensors have improved for animals up to 60 pounds. I also run glass break sensors in the house at possible points of entrance. The stuff I'm using comes from Alarm.com ( http://www.alarm.com/productservices/interactivesecurity/interactive-security.aspx )
Perhaps not quite on topic of your door question but a couple things to consider I hope,
Scott
PS If you decide you interested in doing a security system, let me know and I'll pass on the links I saved while I was doing research for what I wanted to do.Without music to decorate it, time is just a bunch of boring production deadlines or dates by which bills must be paid. ..... Frank Zappa