Power Cords-the REAL deal??

Phish56466
Phish56466 Posts: 54
edited February 2014 in Electronics
Currently NONE of my gear has this option. HOWEVER, installing an IEC connector is no big deal. I'm wondering(from those of you that HAVE played with different cords), is there really THAT much difference? Is it honestly worth dropping that kind of coin for a cord? And what would make such a difference OBVIOUSLY the grade of the conductors, but what about specific twists and such? Some of you have spent quite a bit on PC's, and I'd like to get honest answers about your results(as well as cables tried).
Monitor 12's-RDO's and XO's done!
Onkyo TX-SR705 AVR
Adcom GFA-555 for power(being reborn, as I can afford it)
Onkyo DX-C730 changer
Onkyo CP-1057F table W/Grado cartridge
CS300 center
M4's for rears
LG 47" LCD
ROKU streaming gizmo
Post edited by Phish56466 on
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Comments

  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,590
    edited February 2014
    Define "that kind of coin". Like all cables you can spend 50, you can spend thousands......

    A great starter PC would be from Signal Cable and they are fairly inexpensive, so you can just get a better than standard one to decide if you want to dive deeper into the rabbit hole.....

    I buy them just for piece of mind. I dont spend tons on them, but I figure its like going from monoprice speaker wire to say blue jeans.... its at minimum a better quality.
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
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  • Phish56466
    Phish56466 Posts: 54
    edited February 2014
    I guess anything over the one hundred dollar mark. MOST of what I've been looking at(50 to 100 bucks) doesn't seem all that special IMHO. They LOOK pretty, but is there REALLY that much difference to be had? I've seen a few in the 250+ range that I just can't wrap my head around. I guess bragging rights would be in order, but I'm MORE curious about effect.
    Monitor 12's-RDO's and XO's done!
    Onkyo TX-SR705 AVR
    Adcom GFA-555 for power(being reborn, as I can afford it)
    Onkyo DX-C730 changer
    Onkyo CP-1057F table W/Grado cartridge
    CS300 center
    M4's for rears
    LG 47" LCD
    ROKU streaming gizmo
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  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,590
    edited February 2014
    Phish56466 wrote: »
    I guess anything over the one hundred dollar mark. MOST of what I've been looking at(50 to 100 bucks) doesn't seem all that special IMHO. They LOOK pretty, but is there REALLY that much difference to be had? I've seen a few in the 250+ range that I just can't wrap my head around. I guess bragging rights would be in order, but I'm MORE curious about effect.

    Well, they DO make a difference. Even the 50 - 100 dollar ones. They may not LOOK super special, but they do perform. Plus you want folks looking at your speakers not your power cables.

    Most of them will have a thicker gauge higher quality wire in them than your stock cable. They also normally have a better quality connector at both ends which is again what your paying for.

    How long of cables do you need? The longer you need the more expensive it gets, so if you can keep most of your cables to 3 - 6 feet that would be better so you can keep your cost low.
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
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  • Phish56466
    Phish56466 Posts: 54
    edited February 2014
    I agree that a heavier cord(larger conductors) and a better plug would make a difference as far as less resistance TO the power supply. I have a 12/3 Carol cable SO cord(6') with a heavy duty 15A Hubbell plug on it for my Adcom(there is NO IEC connector on it-wired in like the factory PC-ground NOT connected to anything). I noticed better definition in the low end and the mid ranged seems tighter(to me-no change in the top end). My system is on it own 20A breaker also(12/3 to the panel), the receptacle is probably the weak link there. STILL, I'm wondering if even the romex to the panel could make a difference.

    Zero, isn't the whole point to 'alter' it to your liking? I agree with your methodology of testing 100%! And thanks for the link, I'll give it a read.
    Monitor 12's-RDO's and XO's done!
    Onkyo TX-SR705 AVR
    Adcom GFA-555 for power(being reborn, as I can afford it)
    Onkyo DX-C730 changer
    Onkyo CP-1057F table W/Grado cartridge
    CS300 center
    M4's for rears
    LG 47" LCD
    ROKU streaming gizmo
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  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited February 2014
    One thing I think makes a difference is that you can use the shortest power cable for your application.
    Jake
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  • sucks2beme
    sucks2beme Posts: 5,601
    edited February 2014
    Either way, a good 20 amp dedicated circuit and a better than $.99 builders bulk outlet
    isn't a bad idea.
    "The legitimate powers of government extend to such acts only as are injurious to others. But it does me no injury for my neighbour to say there are twenty gods, or no god. It neither picks my pocket nor breaks my leg." --Thomas Jefferson
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  • mfg
    mfg Posts: 17
    edited February 2014
    I bought a half-dozen of Paul Grzybek's Iron Lung Jellyfish power cords during one of his sales. Very satisfied. It appears that someone may have found the late Mr. Grzybek's source. See http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?fcabl&1354490588

    It would seem worth a shot at that price.
    -Matt
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