Possible mod to SDA-2's

RR09SS

So, I have disconnected the dimensional tweeters, and I'm not entirely sure how I feel about them. With vs without. The thing is, I honestly think some tracks do well with them hooked up whereas some do not. The trouble is if I want to hook them back up and disconnect them there is the time it takes to do so, and also worries of the wear and tear on cabinet itself.

So I was wondering, is there a switch I could install that I could flip on and off as I please to turn on/off the dimensional tweets, and would it be worth putting a hole in the back of the cabinet to do so?

I honestly cringe at the idea of mutilating the cabinets. Are there any other alternatives?







On a side note I should be snagging a pair of SDA CRS's in good condition from a friend for around $100

leftwinger57

PROVISO HERE, ONLY SUGGESTING IT'S POSSIBLE. Back when I was installing alarm systems we come across multiple clients who were Orthodox Jewish. Now on their Sabbath you can not cause anything mechanically to happen like a walk test light on a motion detector, a door chime /bell or early warning buzzer. A light on a smoke detector got a pass from God and township code never to be turned off. To unpower or delete a device all we did was put a simple single throw switch n/o in series w/ the device you wanted to cut out. You could and again not saying you should mount said switch on the back side of the cabinet drill the smallest hole possible and cut into one side of the tweeter wire effected. Most here would say that's crazy and if you have to do it once (pull the tweeter and disconnect) but if you want it both ways, that's a way of doing it. Sorry,I have no more in my pile of alarm supplies so you can't show you how small this really is. If they still have them they were called click/clack shunt switches because that's the sound they made when flipping them.These were surface mounted, they have plate mount ,panel mount, spring loaded but it's way to involved for this application.
Here's an alarm q and a ( forget the alarm resistor talk) and just look at Able 1s bottom answer. My answer leave alone.




http://www.diyalarmforum.com/board/index.php?topic=6682.0

Toolfan66

Buy another set of speakers (NOT SDA)

leftwinger57

Here's a pix of the spring mounted kind.Most would put this on the side of the alarm panel and it has threaded body to tighten down.This close to the kind I used but as you see it's a simple on/off switch.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Security-Alarm-Pre-Wired-On-Off-Mini-Toggle-Switch-Fast-Free-USA-Shipping-/220897218113?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item336e800e41

Schurkey

RR09SS wrote: »

I honestly think some tracks do well with them hooked up whereas some do not.

Put a resistor in series with the dimensional tweeter? Perhaps you can drop the SDA tweeter volume enough to make it work with "all" tracks?

westmassguy

RR09SS wrote: »

So, I have disconnected the dimensional tweeters, and I'm not entirely sure how I feel about them. With vs without. The thing is, I honestly think some tracks do well with them hooked up whereas some do not. The trouble is if I want to hook them back up and disconnect them there is the time it takes to do so, and also worries of the wear and tear on cabinet itself.

So I was wondering, is there a switch I could install that I could flip on and off as I please to turn on/off the dimensional tweets, and would it be worth putting a hole in the back of the cabinet to do so?

I honestly cringe at the idea of mutilating the cabinets. Are there any other alternatives?







On a side note I should be snagging a pair of SDA CRS's in good condition from a friend for around $100

Have you done any upgrades to the 2s? If not, those SL2000 Tweeters absolutely suck, and will color anything you run through the speakers. They are most likely exaggerating certain signals being sent to the dimensional tweeters. I just did a pair of 2s, crossover upgrades, new RDO-194-1s for the Stereo Tweeters, and put dummy SL2500s in the dimensional side for aesthetics. They sounded awesome, and gave my 2ATLs a good run for their money. There's a reason Polk eliminated the dimensional tweeters.

RR09SS

have done no upgrades, and have first gen sda-2's with the sl1000, and how would I go about finding some 194's?

F1nut

The SL1000's are even worse than the SL2000's.

headrott

WOW! Really!?!? Neer heard an SL1000, but it;s hard to believe it being worse than an SL2000. They are horrid!

F1nut

Wait a minute, let me check
....................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................yep

RR09SS

So the RDO-194-1's would be a direct fit replacement for the sl1k and sl2k? if so I need to source at least 4... set for my 2's and set for the soon to be mine crs's

westmassguy

The good news is, the RDO-194-1s are available from Polk Customer Service. The 800 number's at the top of this page. Be sure to tell them you're a Club Polk Member for the discount, and free ground shipping. They're $48.00 each plus State Sales Tax.
The bad news is, they're drop-in replacements for the SL2000s, but not the SL1000s. 1st, the opening through the cabinet must be modified because the location of the male spade connectors is different. 2nd, the recess and screw hole locations are different. The plastic bezel for the RDOs is slightly larger. This can be addressed in several ways. First, you need to fill the existing mounting holes. I use either tooth picks or wood matches, tapped into the holes with some wood glue. Once the glue dries, you can cut the matches or toothpicks flush with the surrounding surface. If your skilled at mortising locksets, and know how to handle a good set of wood chisels, you can carefully mark and modify the recess without damaging the black textured vinyl and front baffle. You can also use a Router with a guide to modify the recess. Your third option, which I've done several times, is to surface mount the new Tweeter. The recess should be masked off with blue painters tape, and then carefully filled in with a water based wood filler. Used a putty knife or small plastic spreader to level the filler even with the black textured vinyl. You may need two coats, because water based fillers tend to shrink as they dry. Once dry, remove the blue painters tape. The filler should be flush with the surrounding surface. Now remove the four Phillips Head screws that attach the plastic bezel to the RDO-194. Carefully remove the bezel, and set the tweeter aside. You'll note the silk dome, voice coil and metal alignment ring are now loose, so be careful handling the tweeter. They're self aligning, so when you re-assemble the tweeter, it should go back together easily. The plastic bezel has a ridge that runs along the perimeter on the back side. This must be removed to surface mount the tweeter. The easiest way I've found to do this, is using a belt sander. I invert and clamp my belt sander to my work bench. I use a 180 grit, emery belt. I attach a small block of wood to the front side of the bezel, which makes it easier to handle and control. Use four #4 or #6 flat head wood screws through the existing holes where the screws were that you removed. Start the belt sander, and begin sanding off the ridge, a little at a time. Don't apply too much pressure. You want to gradually remove the ridge until the back side of the bezel is flat. Once it's sanded flat, remove any burrs, and then re-assemble the tweeter. You'll now need to mark the opening where the wires connect, and remove enough material so that the spade connectors will fit through the opening, and the tweeter sits flush. Take a carpenters square, and square up and position the tweeter's bezel so it covers the filler. Mark your mounting holes, and pre-drill them. You'll most likely need to make a new gasket. Armacell, black insulation tape is the best. This all sounds more complicated that it actually is. If you're uncomfortable using wood chisels or a router, you'll need to find someone who can do it. If you want to go with the surface mount method, and are hesitant about grinding off the ridge on the backside of the bezel, I'd be happy to do it for you.

Mr. Bubbles

They are your speakers. If you want to try a cheap N/O single pole switch as already suggested by someone else go for it. Mount the switch on the terminal cup/ plate. The hole will be tiny and the model speaker you have is not very sought after anyway so I would not worry about hurting the value with the tiny hole. As Westmass describes; any major improvements are going to require some sort of cabinet modification anyway. I would not forget about the RDO tweets but the switch would be an inexpensive mod for you to start with. Good luck and enjoy.