About to pull the trigger on...

Cuchulain
Cuchulain Posts: 66
edited March 2014 in Electronics
the Sherbourn PT 7030 pre-amp/processor from Emotiva. My first step into separates. It looks like it's got all my bases covered except automatic room correction; I'll have to do it manually, and it's not gonna pass through 4K or upscale but I'm always on the tail end of the technology curve anyway so I won't be going that route any time soon. The price is definitely right at $700. on clearance. Down from $1800.

So if you guessed my concern now is amps you'd be right. My surround speakers are in the 100W range except the A6 center. And the A7's are going to need plenty of power to get that sound everyone says they're capable of. My initial thought was to go with the UPA 700. At 80W x 7 it would do the surrounds nicely including the A6. Then I would bi-amp the mains with the UPA handling the mid and tweeters of the A7's and use a separate 2 channel amp to power the woofers. BUT with all the talk of on here of Emotiva amps being on the bright side I'm having second thoughts. The other option is the Outlaw 7075 at 7 x 75W. One review I read says it has the same signature as other more powerful Outlaw amps. Is anyone out there using an Outlaw amp to power A7's? Are they known to be 'warmer' or better suited to speakers like the RTiA7? Everything else seems to be out of my league right now and I'd rather not buy used for something like this.

Thanks in advance!
AVR: Integra DTR-50.4
TV: LG 50PS70
DVD/CD/BR: OPPO BDP 93
MAINS: Polk RTiA7
CENTER: Polk CSiA6
Heights: Polk VS 625RT (in wall)
SURROUNDS: Polk TC60i (in ceiling)
REARS: Polk R1
SUB: Polk PSW 125
Post edited by Cuchulain on

Comments

  • ken brydson
    ken brydson Posts: 8,638
    edited January 2014
    I'd put my $$ into a better sub but that's just me. Your speakers are pretty easy to drive....
  • Cuchulain
    Cuchulain Posts: 66
    edited January 2014
    I'd put my $$ into a better sub but that's just me. Your speakers are pretty easy to drive....

    Really? I've been using that 90Wper channel 671 (2 channels driven) for a couple of years and am not happy with the 2 channel listening for music. I want the upgrade for music as much as HT. Also, isn't it the higher the impedance value the more difficult the speaker is to drive? Meaning 8 ohms is harder than 6 or 4?
    AVR: Integra DTR-50.4
    TV: LG 50PS70
    DVD/CD/BR: OPPO BDP 93
    MAINS: Polk RTiA7
    CENTER: Polk CSiA6
    Heights: Polk VS 625RT (in wall)
    SURROUNDS: Polk TC60i (in ceiling)
    REARS: Polk R1
    SUB: Polk PSW 125
  • recoveryone
    recoveryone Posts: 885
    edited January 2014
    its the other way around 8 easiest 4 harder
    Family Room HT 7.2/i]:Vizio Oled55h1 Pioneer Elite SC-LX502 Pioneer Elite BDP 85FD Eversolo DMP A6 Panamax M5300-EXSpeakers Fronts Fluance XF8L Center Polk Audio S35 Side Surrounds Optimus LS30's Rear Surrounds Optimus LS30's Subs SVS PB4000 x2 Living room 2ch: Crown Xli 1500 amp Teac EQ MKII FX Audio X6 Mk II DAC Squeezebox Touch Fluance Signature Tower Speakers Panamax M5100-EXOffice media room:Vizio M50Q6 50" Pioneer Elite VSX LX103 Squeezebox Touch Polkaudio R50 Towers Polkaudio CS 10 Panamax M4300 Monoprice 12" subMaster bedroom:Vizio M55Q7 Pioneer Elite VSX LX302 Pioneer Elite BDP 85FD Squeezebox Touch Polk audio RTi 6 fronts, Rears Dayton B652 Polk Audio CS10 center Monoprice 12" sub Panamax M5300-EX
  • Cuchulain
    Cuchulain Posts: 66
    edited January 2014
    mmm...really thought more ohms meant more resistance.
    AVR: Integra DTR-50.4
    TV: LG 50PS70
    DVD/CD/BR: OPPO BDP 93
    MAINS: Polk RTiA7
    CENTER: Polk CSiA6
    Heights: Polk VS 625RT (in wall)
    SURROUNDS: Polk TC60i (in ceiling)
    REARS: Polk R1
    SUB: Polk PSW 125
  • sucks2beme
    sucks2beme Posts: 5,556
    edited January 2014
    4 ohms speakers draw more current(less resistance). That means more power to the speakers.
    Some receivers/amps have a lot of trouble keeping up with 4 ohms.
    A good stand alone amp shouldn't have an issue with this. Please keep in mind
    that speaker efficiency varies, so 4 or 8 ohm isn't the real key so much as speaker
    design.
    "The legitimate powers of government extend to such acts only as are injurious to others. But it does me no injury for my neighbour to say there are twenty gods, or no god. It neither picks my pocket nor breaks my leg." --Thomas Jefferson
  • cfrizz
    cfrizz Posts: 13,415
    edited January 2014
    Only your own ears will tell you if the speakers are too bright. All speakers improve when driven to their full potential. I always encourage people to get at least a 200wpc amp, this is enough to let just about all speakers operate to their full potential. The speakers will only take what they need when they need it. But the power has to be there for them to access it.

    If you are willing to shop used you can find good deals on Audiogon for an amp. Look at Parasound, B&K, Outlaw Audio, Rotel, Sunfire. You may have to spend more money up front, but it is a piece of gear that you can keep for years to come through all other upgrades to your system.
    Marantz AV-7705 PrePro, Classé 5 channel 200wpc Amp, Oppo 103 BluRay, Rotel RCD-1072 CDP, Sony XBR-49X800E TV, Polk S60 Main Speakers, Polk ES30 Center Channel, Polk S15 Surround Speakers SVS SB12-NSD x2
  • Cuchulain
    Cuchulain Posts: 66
    edited January 2014
    sucks2beme wrote: »
    4 ohms speakers draw more current(less resistance). That means more power to the speakers.
    Some receivers/amps have a lot of trouble keeping up with 4 ohms.
    A good stand alone amp shouldn't have an issue with this. Please keep in mind
    that speaker efficiency varies, so 4 or 8 ohm isn't the real key so much as speaker
    design.

    Understood. A bit of an oxymoron, in a sense.
    AVR: Integra DTR-50.4
    TV: LG 50PS70
    DVD/CD/BR: OPPO BDP 93
    MAINS: Polk RTiA7
    CENTER: Polk CSiA6
    Heights: Polk VS 625RT (in wall)
    SURROUNDS: Polk TC60i (in ceiling)
    REARS: Polk R1
    SUB: Polk PSW 125
  • Cuchulain
    Cuchulain Posts: 66
    edited January 2014
    cfrizz wrote: »
    Only your own ears will tell you if the speakers are too bright. All speakers improve when driven to their full potential. I always encourage people to get at least a 200wpc amp, this is enough to let just about all speakers operate to their full potential. The speakers will only take what they need when they need it. But the power has to be there for them to access it.

    If you are willing to shop used you can find good deals on Audiogon for an amp. Look at Parasound, B&K, Outlaw Audio, Rotel, Sunfire. You may have to spend more money up front, but it is a piece of gear that you can keep for years to come through all other upgrades to your system.

    I wish I could audition the Emotiva. Being in Canada a 30 day return policy doesn't help much. I don't get the free shipping, I pay duty and the taxes and return shipping if I don't keep it. Duty and taxes I'd get back with hassle and I'm still out hundreds. I'll keep that 200W number in mind.
    I'll be checking to see if Audiogon has a Canadian site.
    AVR: Integra DTR-50.4
    TV: LG 50PS70
    DVD/CD/BR: OPPO BDP 93
    MAINS: Polk RTiA7
    CENTER: Polk CSiA6
    Heights: Polk VS 625RT (in wall)
    SURROUNDS: Polk TC60i (in ceiling)
    REARS: Polk R1
    SUB: Polk PSW 125
  • AsSiMiLaTeD
    AsSiMiLaTeD Posts: 11,722
    edited January 2014
    A better amp and preamp will improve the sound, but they're not going to turn those speakers into a pair of Magnepan or DynAudio. Speakers generally sound how they're gonna sound and an amp won't change that sound character so much as make improvements.

    If you're very unsatisfied with your speakers now then you need new speakers, if you're looking to squeeze that extra bit of performance out of your speakers then a new amp or preamp could be what pushes that over the edge.
  • SCompRacer
    SCompRacer Posts: 8,350
    edited January 2014
    Cuchulain wrote: »
    I wish I could audition the Emotiva. Being in Canada a 30 day return policy doesn't help much. I don't get the free shipping, I pay duty and the taxes and return shipping if I don't keep it. Duty and taxes I'd get back with hassle and I'm still out hundreds. I'll keep that 200W number in mind.
    I'll be checking to see if Audiogon has a Canadian site.

    I hear you...

    In Canada, you have the Audiogon alternative.

    http://www.canuckaudiomart.com/
    Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 *
  • Cuchulain
    Cuchulain Posts: 66
    edited January 2014
    Thanks for the link SCR.
    AVR: Integra DTR-50.4
    TV: LG 50PS70
    DVD/CD/BR: OPPO BDP 93
    MAINS: Polk RTiA7
    CENTER: Polk CSiA6
    Heights: Polk VS 625RT (in wall)
    SURROUNDS: Polk TC60i (in ceiling)
    REARS: Polk R1
    SUB: Polk PSW 125
  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,969
    edited March 2014
    Cuchulain wrote: »
    ...So if you guessed my concern now is amps you'd be right... ...And the A7's are going to need plenty of power to get that sound everyone says they're capable of. My initial thought was to go with the UPA 700. At 80W x 7 it would do the surrounds nicely including the A6. Then I would bi-amp the mains with the UPA handling the mid and tweeters of the A7's and use a separate 2 channel amp to power the woofers. BUT with all the talk of on here of Emotiva amps being on the bright side I'm having second thoughts. The other option is the Outlaw 7075 at 7 x 75W. One review I read says it has the same signature as other more powerful Outlaw amps. Is anyone out there using an Outlaw amp to power A7's? Are they known to be 'warmer' or better suited to speakers like the RTiA7?
    I find your sense of adventure refreshing. Have you considered going slower on upgrades w/a more powerful 3 ch, XO component upgrades, or both? BTW: I haven't read all the replies.

    Tony
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out 8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out *soldered LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged*” Mids - 981, connected w/MP Premiere ICs Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s *Xschop's handy work
  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,969
    edited March 2014
    Cuchulain wrote: »
    ...isn't it the higher the impedance value the more difficult the speaker is to drive? Meaning 8 ohms is harder than 6 or 4?
    you have it backwards. At the risk of overstating it, the vast minority of amps can safely drive 2 ohms well.
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out 8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out *soldered LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged*” Mids - 981, connected w/MP Premiere ICs Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s *Xschop's handy work
  • Jhayman
    Jhayman Posts: 1,548
    edited March 2014
    Cuchulain Welcome to CP..
    I was in your situation a while ago I bought the Emotiva XPA-5 to run my HT the Emo is very good for HT but can be a little bright sounding especially if your speakers are bright already,if this is the case I would advise against the EMO..
    I took the chance and ordered one I have since sold mine on Canuckaudiomart..
    I basically got what I paid minus the duty and shipping after one year..
    Cuchulain wrote: »
    I wish I could audition the Emotiva. Being in Canada a 30 day return policy doesn't help much. I don't get the free shipping, I pay duty and the taxes and return shipping if I don't keep it. Duty and taxes I'd get back with hassle and I'm still out hundreds. I'll keep that 200W number in mind.
    I'll be checking to see if Audiogon has a Canadian site.
    ATC SCM40's,VTL TL 2.5 Preamp,PSB Stratus Goldi's,McCormack DNA 500,McCormack MAP-1 Preamp,Pro-Ject Xtension 10 TT,Ortofon Cadenza Red/Nordost RedDawn LS Speaker cables, Bryston BDP-2, Bryston BDA-2,PS Audio AC-3 power cables