doing the side fabric

leftwinger57
leftwinger57 Posts: 2,917
edited January 2014 in DIY, Mods & Tweaks
After fretting and then suceeding on the spike install I am thinking of doing the side fabrics on the 2Bs.The grill covers are absolutely pritine w/ no snags runs,pulls or fading of any kind. The sides however did get some sun and could use a change over.I would really like to do a wood veneer finish but that's way out of my league and I do not have the knowledge or those kinds of tools to do that. So I think fabric it will be.Now what kind of fabric,is it the same as the grill covers and what's the best way to do this. If the sides came off easily do you use an adhesive spray or staples? Any tutorial on this by anyone in the forum?
2chl- Adcom GFA- 555-Onkyo P-3150v pre/amp- JVC-QL-A200 tt- Denon 1940 ci cdp- Adcom GFS-6 -Modded '87 SDA 2Bs - Dynamat Ext.- BH-5- X-Overs VR-3, RDO-194 tweeters, Larry's Rings, Speakon/Neutrik I/C- Cherry stain tops Advent Maestros,Ohm model E

H/T- Toshiba au40" flat- Yamaha RX- V665 avr- YSD-11 Dock- I-Pod- Klipsch #400HD Speaker set-

Bdrm- Nikko 6065 receiver- JBL -G-200s--Pioneer 305 headphones--Sony CE375-5 disc
Post edited by leftwinger57 on
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Comments

  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,301
    edited January 2014
    Speaker works for the grill cloth, it's by far the best I have purchased. I can even send you a sample so you can see what it looks like..

    Spray adhesive is your friend, get the 3M brand..

    When I did mine I just tore off the sides and threw them out, went to Home Depot and purchased some new 1/4 think wood, cut them to size, and re clothed them. I got all the old glue off the cabinet with a knife and DA'ed them smoth in that area of glue. Put down some new liquid nail, pressed the new ones on, left them on there sides to dry. I added some weight on top the sides to keep them pressed down. Left them that way for a day, and I had them up and running..

    IMO it was a waste of time trying to save the old wood, it was nice using new stuff and easier to work with..
    Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎

    SVS SB16 X2

    Cary SLP-05/Ultimate Upgrade.
    Cary SA-500.1 ES Amps
    Cary DMS 800PV Network
    OPPO UDP 205/ModWright Modification
    VPI Scout TT / Dynavector 20x2
    Jolida JD9 Fully Modified

    VPI MW-1 Cyclone RCM

    MIT Shotgun 3 cables throughout / Except TT, and PC’s
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  • SCompRacer
    SCompRacer Posts: 8,505
    edited January 2014
    +1 to what Larry said. I did a pair of SRS 2's in this thread here.

    http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?29915-SDA-SRS-2-Recloth&
    Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 *
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  • leftwinger57
    leftwinger57 Posts: 2,917
    edited January 2014
    Sorry guys I replied to the vintage speaker side and mentioned both Larry and ScompRacer so please refer to that so we can get it straightened out ..lew
    2chl- Adcom GFA- 555-Onkyo P-3150v pre/amp- JVC-QL-A200 tt- Denon 1940 ci cdp- Adcom GFS-6 -Modded '87 SDA 2Bs - Dynamat Ext.- BH-5- X-Overs VR-3, RDO-194 tweeters, Larry's Rings, Speakon/Neutrik I/C- Cherry stain tops Advent Maestros,Ohm model E

    H/T- Toshiba au40" flat- Yamaha RX- V665 avr- YSD-11 Dock- I-Pod- Klipsch #400HD Speaker set-

    Bdrm- Nikko 6065 receiver- JBL -G-200s--Pioneer 305 headphones--Sony CE375-5 disc
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  • Mike Reeter
    Mike Reeter Posts: 4,315
    edited January 2014
    I usually spray paint the raw panels with a flat black paint before recovering, helps keep the panel BLACK with no chance of the light color wood showing through anywhere. I use a Locktite Powergrab adhesive, I think it bonds just as well as Liquid Nails, but it dries clear.
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  • SCompRacer
    SCompRacer Posts: 8,505
    edited January 2014
    Mike Reeter wrote: »
    I usually spray paint the raw panels with a flat black paint before recovering, helps keep the panel BLACK with no chance of the light color wood showing through anywhere. I use a Locktite Powergrab adhesive, I think it bonds just as well as Liquid Nails, but it dries clear.

    Good idea! I painted the side panels in my SRS 2 re-cloth posted here in the vintage speaker forum.

    http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?29915-SDA-SRS-2-Recloth

    Back in 2005 this diy forum did not exist.
    Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 *
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  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,301
    edited January 2014
    Agree, I forgot to mention I painted the wood as well before re-covering them
    Polk Audio SDA 2.3tl Fully Hot Rodded. 😎

    SVS SB16 X2

    Cary SLP-05/Ultimate Upgrade.
    Cary SA-500.1 ES Amps
    Cary DMS 800PV Network
    OPPO UDP 205/ModWright Modification
    VPI Scout TT / Dynavector 20x2
    Jolida JD9 Fully Modified

    VPI MW-1 Cyclone RCM

    MIT Shotgun 3 cables throughout / Except TT, and PC’s
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter