need some advice on spikes
leftwinger57
Posts: 2,917
I ordered a set of spikes from Parts Express and should be here by the weekend.Now as most in the know the 2Bs have nubs/buttons on the bottom end caps for a minor raise and I guess to help w/ moving them around.My question is do you pull these out and then depending on the diameter of those holes screw in the sleeve that the spikes screw into or do you keep the nubs and just relocate yor spikes. Another question is I have a fairly complete drill set but can you just use a thin double sided square on the base of the spike instead of drilling and let gravity do it's thing.As said before in another post I have light oak hard wood floors.
2chl- Adcom GFA- 555-Onkyo P-3150v pre/amp- JVC-QL-A200 tt- Denon 1940 ci cdp- Adcom GFS-6 -Modded '87 SDA 2Bs - Dynamat Ext.- BH-5- X-Overs VR-3, RDO-194 tweeters, Larry's Rings, Speakon/Neutrik I/C- Cherry stain tops Advent Maestros,Ohm model E
H/T- Toshiba au40" flat- Yamaha RX- V665 avr- YSD-11 Dock- I-Pod- Klipsch #400HD Speaker set-
Bdrm- Nikko 6065 receiver- JBL -G-200s--Pioneer 305 headphones--Sony CE375-5 disc
H/T- Toshiba au40" flat- Yamaha RX- V665 avr- YSD-11 Dock- I-Pod- Klipsch #400HD Speaker set-
Bdrm- Nikko 6065 receiver- JBL -G-200s--Pioneer 305 headphones--Sony CE375-5 disc
Post edited by leftwinger57 on
Comments
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Unscrew the buttons and, if you ordered the correct size/thread count/pitch spikes, screw the new ones in. Easy peasey
But, if your new spikes don't fit the existing t-nuts you'll have to install the new threaded receivers."Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer -
The plastic glides on the bottom of your 2B's are nailed in. Remove them, locate the proper area for the spikes then drill holes for the inserts.can you just use a thin double sided square on the base of the spike instead of drilling
Say what?Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
The Parts Express spike discs/pads, like many others, don't have a very deep dimple so you have to be careful if/when moving them. It's very easy for the spike point to slip out of the disc. Mye has some spike discs/pads with deeper point dimples for $4 each. I also install felt pads on the bottom of discs so they don't mar the floor if moved. The Mye discs do have pads on bottom.
If double sided square refers to double sided adhesive of some kind, I wouldn't rely on that holding up.
When drilling don't drill all the way through the base. Just drill deep enough to fully screw the inserts in.Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 * -
I'll also be heading down this road shorty, but with veneered 1Cs. There no veneer on the bottom, just MDF. Mine will be on carpet How should they be attached? Will the MDF be strong enough?HT- Samsung PN50B860/Integra DTR 30.3/Rt55 Fronts
Rt35i Surrounds/Cs1000p Center/SVS BP1000 Sub
2CH - B&K MC-101 pre/B&K EX-442 amp/NAD 2400 amp
Polk SDA1C, Polk Monitor 7, New Large Advents and Polk RTA 8T
BR - Yamaha CR800/Polk monitor 5 -
You'll need threaded inserts or T-nuts. There should be veneer on the bottom unless it was removed by someone. Regardless, you would be drilling into the MDF anyway as the veneer is very thin.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Easy Runnin wrote: »I'll also be heading down this road shorty, but with veneered 1Cs. There no veneer on the bottom, just MDF. Mine will be on carpet How should they be attached? Will the MDF be strong enough?
If you're using them on carpeted floors just make sure you use spikes that are sharp enough to pierce through the carpet and pad, not the ones that have a more rounded tip.
Are you talking about 1C studios that are on a small pedestal? That's how my 2B studios were and I got great results with removing the stock pedestals and replacing them with hardwood ones. That gave much greater stability and allowed me to add a little height to them, bringing the tweeters up to right at seated ear height. -
I have the non studio version. Here is a picture of the Bottom.
HT- Samsung PN50B860/Integra DTR 30.3/Rt55 Fronts
Rt35i Surrounds/Cs1000p Center/SVS BP1000 Sub
2CH - B&K MC-101 pre/B&K EX-442 amp/NAD 2400 amp
Polk SDA1C, Polk Monitor 7, New Large Advents and Polk RTA 8T
BR - Yamaha CR800/Polk monitor 5 -
You can't use double-sided adhesive for spikes. You need to be able to adjust the height of each spike independently in order to level the speaker.Good music, a good source, and good power can make SDA's sing. Tubes make them dance.
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Easy Runnin wrote: »I have the non studio version. Here is a picture of the Bottom.
You was robbed! :razz:
Yep, drill into the MDF.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
You was robbed! :razz:
LOL They took it from a place hardly anybody looks at.....
IIRC most of the Parts Express spike kits are supplied with the barbed insert nuts.Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 * -
Jesse,that was the question I messed up so badly.Wanting to know if I could use double sided tape squares I have from some parts of my alarm work.That has been answered w/ a big no so drilling it will be.Thankfully the end caps I have are real wood.The set I got has the sleeves and protective bases.My problem and I can see it already is that my set are shoehorn into place.I can move them in or out to unplug and flip them but to place them back I'll have to move my whole console.2chl- Adcom GFA- 555-Onkyo P-3150v pre/amp- JVC-QL-A200 tt- Denon 1940 ci cdp- Adcom GFS-6 -Modded '87 SDA 2Bs - Dynamat Ext.- BH-5- X-Overs VR-3, RDO-194 tweeters, Larry's Rings, Speakon/Neutrik I/C- Cherry stain tops Advent Maestros,Ohm model E
H/T- Toshiba au40" flat- Yamaha RX- V665 avr- YSD-11 Dock- I-Pod- Klipsch #400HD Speaker set-
Bdrm- Nikko 6065 receiver- JBL -G-200s--Pioneer 305 headphones--Sony CE375-5 disc -
Sorry wrong pix.2chl- Adcom GFA- 555-Onkyo P-3150v pre/amp- JVC-QL-A200 tt- Denon 1940 ci cdp- Adcom GFS-6 -Modded '87 SDA 2Bs - Dynamat Ext.- BH-5- X-Overs VR-3, RDO-194 tweeters, Larry's Rings, Speakon/Neutrik I/C- Cherry stain tops Advent Maestros,Ohm model E
H/T- Toshiba au40" flat- Yamaha RX- V665 avr- YSD-11 Dock- I-Pod- Klipsch #400HD Speaker set-
Bdrm- Nikko 6065 receiver- JBL -G-200s--Pioneer 305 headphones--Sony CE375-5 disc -
I think is the one I wanted.It shows how tight things are.
http://s42.photobucket.com/user/leftwinger57leftwinger/media/speakers001_zpsf58960fb.jpg.html2chl- Adcom GFA- 555-Onkyo P-3150v pre/amp- JVC-QL-A200 tt- Denon 1940 ci cdp- Adcom GFS-6 -Modded '87 SDA 2Bs - Dynamat Ext.- BH-5- X-Overs VR-3, RDO-194 tweeters, Larry's Rings, Speakon/Neutrik I/C- Cherry stain tops Advent Maestros,Ohm model E
H/T- Toshiba au40" flat- Yamaha RX- V665 avr- YSD-11 Dock- I-Pod- Klipsch #400HD Speaker set-
Bdrm- Nikko 6065 receiver- JBL -G-200s--Pioneer 305 headphones--Sony CE375-5 disc -
Put some thin felt on the bottom of the discs and you'll still be able to slide them in and out.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
leftwinger57 wrote: »I think is the one I wanted.It shows how tight things are.
http://s42.photobucket.com/user/leftwinger57leftwinger/media/speakers001_zpsf58960fb.jpg.html
That's why I mentioned the depth of the point hole in the pad. I posted a pic of the Mye point pad with its deeper point dimple. With a shallow point dimple you risk the spike slipping out as you move the speakers.
The point pads that came with my NHT subs had a shallow dimple in one side and a deeper dimple in the other, so check both sides when you get them. You can find the adhesive felt pads at hardware and home depot type stores in varying diameters. The felt pads are available in black too.
Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 *
